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Portable lumber racks?

Started by Nealm66, November 07, 2023, 10:46:06 PM

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Nealm66

I'd would have never guessed a guy could get wood that dry around here! I have seen the inside of my house get to about 25 during the winter with the heat pump and the wood stove but the outdoors is never close to 7-10. Wouldn't the outside have to be that low to get wood to dry that much?

Nealm66

I've been digging through the drying forums and reading about the different kilns and hoping I can build something someday. I'm probably just going to sell framing lumber that doesn't really have to be that dry if compared to the big box stores. They're stuff shrinks, cracks and bows like it has never seen a kiln. But, I do some tree removals and would like the ability to dry some stuff. When I built my sharpening shed I insulated almost air tight and have an oil heater unit that dried the big benches I built very quickly so I might just try something similar. I keep thinking about using a wood stove somehow to pitch set 

doc henderson

actually, we can dry here to about 12% outside on average.  depends on the relative humidity and the resulting moisture content.  So, 7 to 10 off that chart does sound too low.  I have covered stacks with clear plastic and got to 7% here.  humidity peaks at the coolest temp at night and is lowest at the hottest part of the day usually.  most framing is under 20%.  interior woodwork, we like at 7%.  Interiors are dryer in the winter and more humid in the summer, here.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Don P

Quote from: Nealm66 on November 16, 2023, 09:49:15 PM
I'd would have never guessed a guy could get wood that dry around here! I have seen the inside of my house get to about 25 during the winter with the heat pump and the wood stove but the outdoors is never close to 7-10. Wouldn't the outside have to be that low to get wood to dry that much?
Relative humidity and wood moisture content are not the same thing, although they are directly related. 
this is a good discussion with several links to more reading on it;
Relative humidity vs. moisture content in Drying and Processing (forestryforum.com)
Framing lumber is typically kiln dried to 19%, this gets it below the moisture fungi work at and where it can come off stickers. I can air dry under cover to 12-14% and I want 8-10% MC for interior woodwork in a climate controlled house. 70°F at 50%rh = about 9% mc.

Nealm66

Now that you mention it, I remember when I got my new epa wood stove and was fiddling with recommended moisture content it seems it was around 19 which is about where you end up real world air drying around here at least checking it mid winter. That makes sense about the framing lumber as well since it would definitely be moldy if it wasn't stickered. It's what threw me into a panic and trying to figure out these lumber racks. It was like a light switch when the rains came and my non stickered piles were trying really hard to become firewood. I also noticed the big 2x4 mill up in Morton uses 1" stickers when they're drying. Would be interesting to see their kiln. It's an old mill but still slams out a lot of lumber

Nealm66

Not sure if I hit the maximum weight or if the cows were scratching themselves but had to stop as it appeared one of the legs was listing 

 

Nealm66

So far these have worked pretty good except placement for tractor access. Been cutting true dimension and it's very wet and heavy but stacks have stayed level and no noticeable bows at least sliding a 6' level. Hope this helps someone in my situation

Stephen1

If you are planning on leaving at 4' sticker, eventually you will see a sag. Best to space at 2'.
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

JRWoodchuck

One thing I learned stacking different lengths of lumber is to use 2" stickers at the transition from longer to shorter material. That way I can get forks under the short stack when I inevitably need the longer material underneath.
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

fluidpowerpro

That's an excellent idea! I am going to try to remember to do that also.
Change is hard....
Especially when a jar full of it falls off the top shelf and hits your head!

Local wind direction is determined by how I park my mill.

Nealm66

I'm definitely learning as I go. Im now just trying to clear the landing for some logging where I'll need enough room to spin up to 115' poles to get the butts all facing the right way for a self loader. I'm going to try and set up the mill at my home but definitely not as good of ground so probably won't work but worth a try. I'll take these lumber racks apart and put them back together but more strategically for forking. I think they work great. Quick to assemble/unassemble, level, flat, portable.

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