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concrete floor for sawmill

Started by AvlSteve, October 01, 2021, 08:00:47 AM

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Fiber up here in TN is 150yard. I had that put under my super70 with no rebar. That was 5 years ago no problems as of yet. My timber frame was poured the same way, fiber with no rebar. I'm sure added steel would never be a bad thing but for our climate going cheaper I don't think will affect anything. Its actually gotten to be common practice up here for concete pours unless its commercial. 
Sawyer/Woodworker/Timber Harvester
Woodmizer LT70 Super Wide, Nyle L53 and 200 kiln, too many other machines to list.
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YellowHammer

Surprisingly, my legs feel better under concrete, with me having a bad knee and artificial hip.  It was weird, it actually took about a week before I felt comfortable walking on a perfectly level surface at the mill.  My body had memorized every little dip and dive in the previous hardpacked surface, every little slant and flat spot and I actually felt a little "land sick" when I started walking on it. 

If you do it yourself, then you can save some serious money.  On the other hand, there is a lot to be said about the "Hand the man a check and tell him to hurry up" method.  I pulled the mill out the day before he arrived, I did the dirt and grade work to save money, they came in the next day, and pretty much it was done.  The green concrete needed a few days to set, so I spent the time washing the mill off, doing PM on it, and stuff like that.  

      

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

jmouton

i do commercial concrete everyday and concrete is about 200 dollars a yd for 6 bag with all the taxes and fees here in mich,,,
lt-40 wide ,,bobcat,sterling tandem flatbed log truck,10 ton trailer, stihl 075,041,029,066,and a 2017 f-350,oh and an edger

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