Drum switch 40 super up down and travel

[jaciausa]

What is the grease used on the drum switches and is their a difference in the 2 switches. I received mine from Woodmiser for the travel and no grease included. The up down was working and now it does not.

[SawyerTed]

The grease is dielectric grease, it lubricates and insulates to prevent arcing and burning of contacts.  

It comes in a small plastic tub about 1" in diameter INSIDE the control box.  

All breakers reset?  

[WV Sawmiller]

  I don't have an LT 40 but I can assure you the 2 switches on my LT 35 are not the same. (Don't ask me how I found out.) It looks like they could/should be the same. Check the part numbers in your manual.

[Magicman]

My drum switches are different.  

It doesn't take much but without grease the contacts will wear. 

[SawyerTed]

Check the troubleshooting steps for the motor control module/H bridge.  If both travel and up/down are problems it could be the H bridge. 

There are diagnostic LEDs on the module for switch input and motor output.  The manual should cover the LED combinations for good condition and fault conditions. 

It's a quick, straightforward check that will help determine where the problem is.

[jaciausa]

The travel was working partial and is currently working. The up down was working before i ordered the travel drum. So now i need to order the up down for spare.  I guess I have to order the grease to use the correct stuff. I got dielectric grease that i will try . thanks for all of the help. Saw has 1500 hours so it possible needs changing. I believe i should check brushes on that motor.

[Magicman]

A little tub of grease should be in the control box.  

My 1998 drum switches are both original but I could have a contact to break tomorrow.  The actual contact is completely worn off of a couple of the contact fingers from so much use and probably from a lack of grease at some time.

I have no spares and will run it until one breaks and then do a replacement.  You can overload yourself with "spare" parts that you may never use.

[jaciausa]

Thanks for the information. I have the forward and reverse working okay after cleaning and greasing.
I tried the same with the up down, no luck. It shows a red light when using the up and down. One way the red light is not so bright. The red means its a up/ down motor fault and not the drum switch? I have some other issues before I can mill. I believe they might be related to this up/down motor problem.
I am remounting my stand up remote inside the new to me cab. I need that secure before I break some wires. Its to hot up there at the mill to work very long so i am trying to get the new Woodmizer account site setup like it was before the updated version.
The new sight does not show any of my past orders or parts and options nor will it let me order parts direct!! I cannot access any of the online recourses for my mill.
I will take some pictures as I put this back together. Thanks for the great help.

[SawyerTed]

Does your motor control look something like this?



This was mine. 

In the forward position there should be 2 Red Leds.  One is switch input, one is for motor output. 

In reverse position there should be 2 green leds. 

For up - 2 green leds.  One for switch input one for motor output. 

For down- 2 red leds. 

Since it is only showing one red led for forward and no motor output led, Chris at Wood-Mizer determined the motor control module/H bridge was bad. 

I replaced it today and everything works as it should. My problem was fwd/reverse. 

[SawyerTed]

If the switch input led is lit, that means the controller is receiving a signal from the drum switch to activate the motor. 

On mine I had reverse but no forward for head travel.

[jaciausa]

Thanks, that was very helpful. I should have remote remounted today. I hope to show some pictures today.

[jaciausa]

The error it gives is the check breaker or cable. Defective or loose H Bridge communication splitter cable.
Defective or loose Communication cable in cable carrier.
Tripped up down circuit breaker.
Hopefully I can find a loose cable.

[jaciausa]

I had to do some dirt work while it was dry. Want to plant some turnips and rye for the wildlife.
I traced the wires some more and found a couple communication cable mouse bitten, not real bad and I do not think these wires are the problom.
I got the remote back on its pedestal in the cab so now it is stable.
The last reading I got from the diagnostics showed no battery voltage. Forward and back works okay even thou no bat voltage showing. Engine starts also.
I installed the anywhere hydraulics before this happened. I am not sure if I installed ground proper. I ran 1aught welding from negitive battery thru cat track to hydraulics box at ground that exists in there. 
Question I have: does the ground on lower rail need to be hooked up? I had removed it with the intension of not replacing it. I have 2 2aughts for the positive. I did not have anymore 1aught.
I am going to remove up and down drum to clean proper. 
I am going to test up/down motor directly. It was running as I said earlier.
What is the solenoid in the box with the main breakers that run the up down and forward reverse? Could that breaker be bad but not tripped?
Thanks for all the help you all have already given.
Thanks for any help.

[SawyerTed]

My understanding is as long as you have a ground cable run, the ground shoe that rides the bottom track is not necessary.  Much like the positive cables for the hydraulics everywhere, the positive shoe and copper strip can be removed.    But I left the ground shoe in place when I added hydraulics everywhere.  Every good ground helps in case there's a poor ground elsewhere.  

Faulty grounds apparently are a gremlin with these mills.  In the instructions with my new H Bridge, there were several checks of different grounds - in the hydraulics box, both sides of the engine, battery cables and the bottom ground shoe. 

So check the ground connections, clean them and check them off.  

[jaciausa]

I plan on putting the bottom ground back on the machine cuz I believe grounds are very important

[jaciausa]

I checked the 50 amp up/down breaker and it was bad so I am ordering a new one. That is what the diagnostic test said the problem was. 

[jaciausa]

This is a picture of my diagnostics it looks like yours Ted.
There isn't a picture here yet but will be as soon as I take the time to figure it . I have it here in the forestry forum. I am working on getting it here. I believe I know how to do this now. I do not know if I did it proper. Pictures can tell a better story for most of us.
I did it.

[jaciausa]

What is the name of this elect box on 2006 40 super? I will have to edit Pic for size.

[SawyerTed]

The box with the LEDs is a motor control module (according to my manual) but most often is referred to as an H bridge.  

[jaciausa]

Good news on the drum switches. After reading about some making it from 98 I just greased  both of the drums and fixed the circuit breaker. 

[MartyParsons]

Hello, 
   This is Marty from PA Wood-Mizer.
 Just checking in.  
    I assume you have a command control mill, possibly I LT70? You definitely need to install the ground brush under the battery. You could run a additional wire through the plastic carrier ( Cat Track) and ground the hydraulic box and the saw bed frame. Then you could eliminate the lower ground contact brush. 

   The power solenoid 016371 in the electrical box is important and if you have Accuset 2 you can check the power on the Accuset 2 panel under Diag screen. ( Error Check Breaker and Cable). It says Battery voltage and control voltage both should be 12.3V with engine off or 13.8 - 14.2 volts with engine running. Circuit breaker could also be a factor in low voltage  or zero. 
    Check connections at battery, fuses  Red ones loose at fuse) .

 Hope this helps! 

    

[CCCLLC]

Thank you Marty. Your  knowledge  on these WM is greatly  appreciated, even  for me on the sidelines. Very helpful. True asset to FF as well.