Sawn shingle thickness question

[Nebraska]

For those of you that have a shingle making jig for your sawmill, how thick is the butt of the shingle that it puts out? I've been fiddling with some bits and pieces and have a good start on a jig. I  just don't know how thick to make them. I have kind of settled a step of 5/8" to end up with a half inch ish butt. I searched the forum and read some old threads but just didn't see a figure on how thick. I will post a picture tomorrow of the half finished project. I don't want to produce lots of shingles might need 5 square for what I'm planning just got the urge to try and do it.   

Wall siding not roofing. 

[GAB]

Mr. Nebraska:
I have a W-M SLR and have made shingles that I used for both siding and roofing of a veggie stand.
The SLR has the capability of handling up to six blocks.  Each block location has a small cam that I adjusted so that my shingles were 5/32" at the thin end and 17/32" at the thick end, and ~22" long.
Since I cut my blocks with a chainsaw I trimmed them on the RAS so the thick end would be square.
Adjusting the little cams to the same height for all six stations was a challenge.
You can make them whatever thickness, width, and length with your desired taper that your heart desires.
Good luck,
GAB

[DanielW]

When using a shingle mill, 3/8" used to be more of the standard, but they have adjustable cams to allow different setworks advancements. I always cut a little on the thicker side myself (1/2" to 5/8"), because I'm like most folks and think thicker is better, but really that's not necessarily the case. Thinner shingles will flex a little more before they break, so they can handle a little more flex from wind or snow stress before cracking. In Europe, their wooden 'shingles' are more like shaved pieces of veneer (we're not allowed to post links to Youtube videos on this site for some reason, or I'd send a link to a video of a European shingle slicer). And their shingle roofs last as long as most.

It's a fine line to draw. Too thin and they'll break too easily. Too thick and they won't flex, and crack too easily. As far as shingle longevity goes, the thickness at the narrow end is probably more critical than at the thick end, because that's where you often see them pull free of the nails.

I don't think you can go too wrong with anything from 3/8" to 3/4" thick at the butt. If installed properly, they'll still outlive you. I personally like the heavy shadow line myself, which is one of the reasons I cut a little on the thick side. A lot of the major manufacturers are now offering thicker butts as well. Not for any longevity reason, but because people like the heavy shadow line it gives - it really makes the visual 'pop'.