Replacement for Husqvarna 460 Rancher

[future_vision]

Well, my first chainsaw, a Husqvarna 460 Rancher, appears to be on its way to the grave. I couldn't get it to start and brought it to a local shop for diagnosis. I am told something about bearings, a problem in the carburetor and it being close to seizing up. The repairs would be more than the cost of a new one. He said it look like it got wet too because he saw rust. That is an odd one. It was always in a garage, a car or locked in the tractor. Sure it got a little rain on it from time to time but nothing that would soak it.

Anyways, it sounds like it is time for a new one and I am looking for a replacement. I think that I might want to spend more, this time around, and for a professional chainsaw. Husqvarna would be convenient since I already have a brand new 24" bar that would probably fit one of their professional models but I would be open to looking at Stihl as well. What would you folks suggest. If I could stay around the $1K that would be best. I'm no going pro as an arborist but do have quite a bit of lumber to cut as I clear 10+ acres.

[Old Greenhorn]

2 thoughts: First for you replacement, tkae a look at the 562, I love mine, great saw.
 Second, I would think about doing your own rebuild on that 460 once you find a replacement. Look at it this way: It's dead you can't hurt it, you got your money out of it. So why not buy some parts and try doing your own work. These saws are not that complicated parts are not really that expensive. The reason your dealer/shop says it isn't worth it is because of the labor cost and of course they are right, , but your labor, in the evenings of weekends can be pretty cheap. In the end, you could revive that saw and have a great backup.
 Of course, if you are too busy or it's just not worth it to you, send it along to me, I am always looking to have a little fun on the side. Besides, I haven't owned a 460 yet.

[TreefarmerNN]

I looked hard at a Husky 550 to replace my lost 51 saw but ended up getting a used 359.  First used saw I've ever bought so perhaps that was a dicey choice.  I like that Husky still has a purge valve on their new saws.  That helps when a saw has been sitting a while.

I have a Stihl 362 that's been a very good saw but probably pushing your budget now. 

If you have the budget, a pro saw has variable oiling which IMHO is a good thing. 

[Spike60]

Rust? On what?   The muffler bolt channels? (They all do that, and it's harmless) It's a mostly plastic saw. 

My recommendation to replace it would be the 555. Essentially a narrow mount 562; so you would be able to use bars from your 460. Yet still a step up to a professional saw. 

I like Tom's idea of taking a crack at rebuilding it yourself. Although I would do it in conjunction with buying the 555. No anxiety time wise to get it done or wonder how long it might run. 

Couple things: the 460 is a plastic case saw, so it's a little different than what we usually do here. That's an advantage in the sense that you don't have to split the case in half, (or own any special tools to do so). Everything comes out from the top. Except the cylinder bolts, which are accessed from below. If you go with an aftermarket top end, you're likely to find more options for the related 455. Interchangeable other than 1 or 2 mm smaller diameter piston. Not a big deal, but there are 460 kits out there. 

Good idea to do your tear down before ordering anything. That way you get to see what you actually need. Those bottom ends are nearly bullet proof, so bearing failure is uncommon. 

You'll have some time in it, and be glad that your not paying someone else $100 an hour to do it. 

[future_vision]

Rust? On what?  The muffler bolt channels? (They all do that, and it's harmless) It's a mostly plastic saw. 

My recommendation to replace it would be the 555. Essentially a narrow mount 562; so you would be able to use bars from your 460. Yet still a step up to a professional saw.

I like Tom's idea of taking a crack at rebuilding it yourself. Although I would do it in conjunction with buying the 555. No anxiety time wise to get it done or wonder how long it might run.

Couple things: the 460 is a plastic case saw, so it's a little different than what we usually do here. That's an advantage in the sense that you don't have to split the case in half, (or own any special tools to do so). Everything comes out from the top. Except the cylinder bolts, which are accessed from below. If you go with an aftermarket top end, you're likely to find more options for the related 455. Interchangeable other than 1 or 2 mm smaller diameter piston. Not a big deal, but there are 460 kits out there.

Good idea to do your tear down before ordering anything. That way you get to see what you actually need. Those bottom ends are nearly bullet proof, so bearing failure is uncommon.

You'll have some time in it, and be glad that your not paying someone else $100 an hour to do it. 

Thanks. I like to tinker so treating it down and rebuilding is fine with me. Now I'm wondering if I should just do the rebuild but realistically that will take time and I'd like a chainsaw soon. Why the 555 over the 562? Is it just the ability to use my current bar?

[Spike60]

Yes, mostly the same saw other than bar mount. Has really been overlooked and underrated. However the 562 is what they call the Mark 2 version and has some worth while improvements throughout. 555 is still built on the original chassis. 

[future_vision]

I think I am going to go with the 562XP Mark II with a 20" bar since I have a 24" bar for it too. Any suggestions where to buy? Looks like it is $849 on most sites but those don't let you buy directly on the site.

[cutterboy]

A 20" and a 24" bar for a saw that has more than one job is a good combination. I run a Stihl 460 with both those bars, the 20" for firewood and the 24" for cutting timber and logs.