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DIY Sawmill Troubles

Started by ktm250rider, February 08, 2025, 12:27:53 PM

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ktm250rider

I seem to be having issues with my pillow block bearings on the tensioning side of my sawmill.  Designed similar to the Linn sawmill.  The original bearings lasted for quite a while.  Just a hobby sawyer so not sawing big numbers.  The 2nd bearing gave up quick and i thought it was perhaps the extra play that i had in tensioning slide.  The square tube assembly was a little sloppy on the cross members.  Once tensioned, the slop went away but i thought perhaps the slop was causing some of my vibration.  When the next bearing went, i added some jack bolts to the side of the slide to eliminate any slop.  This also allowed me to get the tracking on the blade set much easier.  I thought it was a 2 for 1 benefit.   Just blew another bearing after 3 logs!
At this point, im going to rebuild the whole tensioning slide but not sure what i need to change.  Perhaps they were cheap amazon bearings?

ktm250rider


KenMac

I'm from an commercial HVAC background and have quite a bit of experience with pillow block bearings. The higher quality bearings should last for years with proper lubrication. Dodge and Timken are well known brands but I'm sure there are others just as good. I'd not be price shopping to save a few dollars here. If you've used name brand and still have problems I can't imafgine why that would be. Make sure the bearings are aligned properly on installation. Just my thoughts on the subject. Good luck.
Cook's AC3667t, Cat Claw sharpener, Dual tooth setter, and Band Roller, Kubota B26 TLB, Takeuchi TB260C

woodman52

There is a huge difference between high quality and cheap bearing. Try some good greaseable bearings and let us know how it goes 
Cooks HD3238 mill, loader tractor +, small wood processor, Farmi 501 winch, Wallenstein LX115 forwarding trailer, 60 ac hardwood, certified tree farm

ktm250rider

apparently, the picture didn't work.  The first ones came from surplus center.  Part number search looks like they are a Radwell bearing.  The next ones came from amazon and most likely even cheaper quality.  They have all been greaseable and self aligning.  

Gearbox

are you over greasing . if you greased them on installing you over greased . When that happens the balls or rollers slide instead of turning . 5 minuets is all it takes to shorten the life .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

KJB

Pillow blocks hate extra grease. It causes them to run hot causing the grease to thin and separate. It then creates a wax layer and the bearings run without lubrication. Even a cheap bearing should have lasted longer than three logs. I would go with Timkin or Dodge. But you need to find the reason for failure. Something is being overlooked. Shaft bent, to much tension, surface of the shaft too worn for bearing. How many belts on the shive and are they equally tension. Shive to shive running square? Hope this helps.
Sawdust creator

ktm250rider

I put one of the spares i had left over from last purchase.  Yeah, same supplier but its what i have on hand.  The shaft, Bearing and Blade pulley are a "snug" fit to each other.  There is some wear on the shaft which I believe was caused by the bearing failure and the stop ring.
I need to DIY a blade tensioner just haven't gotten around to it.  Maybe ill do that next before cutting again.  I cant remember if i added grease to these.  Its quite possible because i finally upgraded to a cordless grease gun and I was running around greasing everything possible!  

ktm250rider

I think I made some big improvements.  I ended up putting one of the spare "failed" bearings I had back on.  Took some time after assembly and made sure everything was running straight and smooth.  One thing i noticed was the extra play I had in the adjustment assembly since I didn't get the steel tube to fit tightly around the horizontals of the head assembly.  I mentioned i added some jack bolts to tighten up the assembly. I think this helped with some of my vibrations I was seeing.  I tensioned the blade and all looked good so i started cutting.  Couldn't believe all was good, because I snapped a blade.  Really, this mill just doesn't want to cooperate.  I put a new blade on and immediately realized my problem.  I WAS USING A DULL BLADE!  I think the dull blade was slipping causing me to over tension.  New blade and didn't tension as much and I was cutting like melted butter.
Now I just need to take advantage of this weekends H-Freight coupon and pick up a new engine.  The one I got surges and I just cant seem to straighten it out.

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