iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

My good tractor tire has done gone bad..........Help!

Started by woodbowl, October 06, 2005, 10:56:45 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

woodbowl

I'm a little embarrased  to ask what to do about my tractor tire, especially after I went and give DanG a scornin' about how he aught to do this and that to fix hisn'.  ::) But I'm a bit stumped about this strange finominon thang goin'on, so I reckon I'll ask some advise! My bad tractor tire is still going on and on like the energizer bunny. The tube is poochin' out of a big hole just beggin' for a sticker to scratch it. My boot patch moved over and now shows the tube. My good tire is the one that wants to quit me, no slits or boots. I keep water in the back tires for weight. I bushed hogged the other day and ran over a few cypress knees (not good for tractor tires) and after I parked I noticed that It was pretty slack. I also noticed that some air was comming out of the side along a seam. Hoping for some good luck, I started filling with water. Maybe there is some air trapped between the tube and tire. Air continued to come out of the top, but then I noticed that water started to come out the seam on the bottem. Not good! I'm thinking that I've got a hole in the tube. If there is, how did it get there? Did it rub a hole or is there a splinter hiding somewhere? If I put in a new tube and don't find the splinter, there goes my new tube. I guess there is a tube on this side? Are some rear tractor tires tubeless? This is a stock tire with no previous problems on a 20 year old IMT.
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

Weekend_Sawyer


Sounds like you picked up a splinter or a nail. When you break the tire down it should show itself, mabe the valve stem rotted. If you can't find the problem try wipe the inside down real good with a rag, you should feel it snag on whatever it is. You could also remove the tube, fill with air and dunk it in the water trough. That should show you where the leak is and then you can line it up with the tire, oh yea, mark the tire where the valve stem is before removing o'course.

What are you using for water weight? I don't like Calcium chloride, way too corrosive, For my fronts I am thinking about trying antifreeze or regular ol winshield washer fluid. Suggested by OWW btw.

Jon
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

bull

Might be time to open the wallet and get two new tires before you get hurt..  Safety is the issue now when tires go bad they are bad.... your just looking for trouble working in the woods w/ junk tires.  The quick fix bandaid is ment to help get you out of the situation when youre in the middle of it. Then your suppose to fix the problem Good luck !!

Corley5

http://www.rimguard.biz/  We use this in the tractor tires at work rather than calcium chloride.  Works good.  I haven't needed to load or reload any tires on the farm but will use this stuff when the time comes.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

Kirk_Allen

 Hey this is Buzz sawyer at Kirks

You may be pinching it .....when ya get a hole in the side wall .......it time to start a scroungin the auction sales and tire shops ;)

woodbowl

Quote from: Weekend_Sawyer on October 07, 2005, 07:28:31 AM



What are you using for water weight? I don't like Calcium chloride, way too corrosive,

Water...  ;D  I'm in the Fla panhandle close to the coast. We hardly ever get a big freeze. Some folks use a little antifreeze just to be safe.
Quote from: Kirk Allen on October 07, 2005, 09:00:24 AM


.....when ya get a hole in the side wall .......
I've got plenty of good tread left.  When I had a boot put in the other tire a few years ago, the fellow broke it down with a jack somehow, still mounted to the tractor. I don't remember if he took the tube out or not. Anybody know how to do this? This way?
Full time custom sawing at the customers site since 1995.  WoodMizer LT40 Super Hyd.

Murf

First things first, a common tube eater is rust, a small fleck of rust that breaks free from the rim will go through the tube in no time. Filled tires are notorious for rusting, regardless of what they're filled with.

Now, yes, there is a tricky way to use a jack, between the diff. housing and tire next to the bead and force the tire off the rim. If you jack that side of the tractor up, you can reak the bead free, then spin the tire and eventually get the whole tire free of the rim on one side.

A lot of 'newer' tractor tires are tubless, especially the bigger radials.

I've never had any luck putting a boot or patch on a split seam or cut tire, but then our problem up here is broken granite so sharp you could nearly shave with it. When it gets into a 'conflict' with a tire, the tire loses, every time.  ::)
If you're going to break a law..... make sure it's Murphy's Law.

Thank You Sponsors!