Learning about Swingers

rebocardo · April 05, 2006, 01:34:17 PM

Which of the swingers do you think is the easiest to set up and saw one person, on unlevel ground, for 24+ inch logs? If you do not mind pushing the saw assembly?

brdmkr · April 05, 2006, 02:02:12 PM

Rebocardo,

I have only used a Lucas, but I can say that my setup is generally performed by myself operating alone. Without rushing, I can usually have everything set up in 30 minutes or so. Thusfar, I have also not set up on really unlevel ground, but I will say that pushing or pulling the sawhead on very much of an angle would be tiring. While I see the advantages of being able to cut on the taper or on unlevel ground, this is not something that I would want to do regularly. However, if the opportunity presented itself and there were no other options, I would not hesitate to work on unlevel ground.

Really, the worst part of sawing alone is the off-bearing. I reverse cut (cut vertical first) so I don't have to walk around the saw carriageto remove the board, but having to offbear and sticker by myself is a slow-going proposition. I am sure that it results in > 50% cut in production.

If you are ever in SW Georgia and would like to saw some with my mill, just send me a PM.

getoverit · April 05, 2006, 10:17:43 PM

I havent sawed with the Lucas, but the Peterson ATS I have will saw on unlevel ground. If it isnt too unlevel, you can adjust the beam winches to adjust for the lulevelness. If it is really steep, it would be better to set the mill up so that one side is higher than the other, and then lower the beam on the high side. all of this adjusting is relatively easy to do.

It takes me about the same amount of time as brdmaker to set up my mill when I am alone, so I dont think there is any advantage one way or the other. I would be happy to demo my Peterson mill for you if you are in NE Florida.

Bob Smalser · April 06, 2006, 01:27:17 AM

As flat ground where I live is almost unheard of, setup on slopes is an every-day affair. One of the reasons I selected this type of mill almost a decade ago.

1) Don't push uphill when you don't have to. Sequence your cuts so's the 1" cut is on the upslope and the 8" cut is on the downslope. You merely slide the powerhead carriage out of the log and push it out of the way to retrieve the board if alone and the vertical cut is last....the scale stops will bring you back to your index.

2) One potential killer with these mills is setup on so steep a slope the weight of the powerhead tips the entire mill on end at the downhill end of the cut. As that 22" spinning blade tilts forward and heads straight for the rocky ground, you'll be real happy they put that kill switch where it's handy. ;) Always make a couple dry runs on steep slopes, first....and a length of rope to tie the uphill end of the mill down to a ground stake isn't unheard of around here.

Ianab · April 06, 2006, 03:30:09 AM

Like the guys have said the Peterson ATS and the Lucas mills do set up easier on uneven ground. You basically have only 4 ground contact points and the height is easy to adjust. With the WPF there are crossmembers and extra supports under the rails. Takes more time to adjust these for seriously uneven ground. The only heavy part of the mill is the carriage, and thats on wheels, like a big wheelbarrow.

I set up my ATS on all sorts of slopes if I have to, but I usually try and at least pivot the log so it's across the slope. Milling up and down slope is no fun. Bob's picture shows how he has jacked up the downhill end of the log to keep the rails relatively level.

And any of the mills can be set up and operated alone. But it's just so much faster with 2 people. While you are adjusting the mill for the next cut your off bearer grabs the board, then stacks it while you cut the next one. Keep the saw in the wood ;) If it's idling while you carry a board away, it's not producing.

Cheers

Ian

jpgreen · April 06, 2006, 08:40:13 AM

I'd like to add some info here because I have received emails on this subject-

Our GripperDog "frame dogs" make this kind of setup that Bob is doing easy, as first the upper log dogs hold the log in place on the bunks, but then our lower frame dog brackets allow you to place a cross bearer, or footing under the main bunk (or skid) of any height or length needed, and that can be just on the downhill side only. Also you can run that cross bearer beam all the way over to the other bunk at the other end of the log if you desire, and tie the whole frame in.

The frame dogs are solid welded steel, and clamp beams at 90 dgrs... so you can construct a solid framework (any height) under your log quickly and easily. You can also lay down a plank to walk across while you saw.

The new Generation II frame dogs now have a stake pocket on each (bracket), instead of on the Dog. This will let you drive an inexpensive steel concrete form stake from the building supply, at each frame dog- (each corner), of your cross bearing point, and lock it down with the set bolt.

Also- just to add the new Generation II log dogs are no longer made of steel and blade freindly.