tuning saws for operation on two ended bar

[Norwiscutter]

Looking at building a dedicated slabber and have been exploring my options concerning running a single powerhead or one on each end. What difficulties, if any should I expect to have running two saw heads versus one?  I plan on doing some wide slabs (50+ inches) and was thinking of my different power options. I would think that the RPM's would have to be pretty much in synch to ensure that one saw was pulling on the other. Kind of a novice in this area so be gentle.

[Al_Smith]

 Do a search for "Pro Works" which is a homebuilt type chainsaw mill that this fellow Alan Combs sells plans for.He goes somewhat into detail about the problems associated with running two power heads.

Regarding power for a big slabber,I saw some place on the net about a long bar rig that used an 18 HP Briggs engine.I suppose they geared it up to get more chain speed but I really don't know.

[Simonian]

A husqvarna 3120xp with a 50" bar may be the trick 7.3 cu in

[Norwiscutter]

I was thinking about two of them.

[Simonian]

Ok
then how many trees will you find that are 50" across?
Will it be worth the investment in 2 of these?
How will you move the trees before and after?
Just something to think about

[Norwiscutter]

.
   
Plenty of the big ones around here. I end up turning down allot of free logs that I simple can't handle.
The economics of my situation fully justify the additional expenditure if it indeed results in better production rates. If I used the set up four times in a year it would more than justify what I am looking at doing.  Of course at a certain point I would start to examine the option of a dedicated Peterson or Lucas slabber.
This would definitely serve a specific purpose, which would be the slabbing of larger logs for bar and table tops and to split anything too big to easily handle on the woodmizer.
If one saw would be sufficient, then of course I would avoid spending any unnecessary money, however the idea of having a saw pulling at both ends also seams to have merit.

[Nudgewood]

I worked with a logging crew in Brazil for a while and they had a double-ender with six foot of custom-built blade between the two. The blade was bowed back and front, about two feet wide at center and the chain adjusted very tight.

About syncing the two motors, you're overthinking the problem; if one motor is running faster than the other the faster spins the clutch housing of the slower and cicks the shoes off the drum. When cutting and the revs are up both powerheads will take up any slack as the other slows or gets bogged down. With a saw that size you're usually on the other side of the trunk with no visual contact with your buddy and it's so loud you have no verbal contact either so communication becomes a tactile experience... like a blind date in the dark!

This saw had the bar oiler's pumps adapted and it used more oil than gas so had auxiliary tanks on each motor. The weight and the shape of the bar also meant starting the motors while laying on their side, the rhumetoid stihl syndrome.

%<

[Tony_T]

Have you thought about using a single 090 stihl?

[Norwiscutter]

Nudgewood- thanks for the enlightening response and welcome to the forum.

Tony, I have except I think that I would rather buy something new as oposed as used.

So unless I am off base, any imballance would be negated by the drag in the wood anyhow so having them in synque would not be a concern.  I Do think that a single power head would be get by for most of the stuff I am doing. Likely 36-50+ inch white pine, as well as some crotch wood, put I would also like to avoid putting any undue strain on the powerheads by going with a smaller unit.
So what you are basically saying is that the second saw head if not in operation would esentially be an idealer sprocket?

If the above stands true then in theory a pair of 575xp's running in tandem would apply a greater amount of HP to the given job than say a single stihl 880 or 3120?

From the standpoint of maximizing HP/per dollar, it would seam the above method would possibly be an option?

[Michael]

How about a new 3120 with Ken Dunn cylinder? I have it available for $1100 and it should solve your problem.  Mike