Looking for a band saw to cut timbers

[pegs1]

I'm looking for a band saw to cut timbers for timber framing.

I want something I can cut a timber at least 30' long.   Most of the timbers are short than that, but on every frame there is at least 2 or 3 that are 28- 34'.

It needs to be very accurate.   I don't want to have to plane a 1/2 off to get the actual if thats possible.

Woodmizer is sending some literature, but any information from anyone who is actually cutting would be helpful..

I don't have a clue which way is better to run it.   Remotely or on a traversing seat.    Seems like the seat idea would be good for watching the cut and what kind of timber we are getting.   But like I said.   I don't have a clue.

It will only be portable for about 6 months then we want to make it permanent and would like to run it with an electric motor.   I've even thought of getting it electric to start with and using a generator temporarily.   I could sell the generator later or use it for job sites. 

I will know in a week whether we get the job we want to use it for.   

Thx in advance for any reponses

[Gary_C]

Are you looking to buy or just hire someone to cut your timbers?

For a Woodmizer, you can cut logs up to 21 ft long and with a 12 ft bed extension you could cut 33 ft. With the bed extension, the mill needs to be set up on a solid level surface. The seat is not necessary.

[Rail-O-Matic]

I don't think you will find a ready made mill today with the length of bed you are mentioning
30 foot is quite a long chassis to haul around for a portable, a static would be ok.

If money is no object, then I would get one custom made, or make the chassis yourself and buy the head, there are lots of companies doing part builds in the USA.

Then there is this guy in Anchorage who might custom make you a mill, you can reach him on this number 907 344 6863, his site is www.alaskabandsawmills.com, I have made one of these mills from his instructions and she works very well, its a manual mill but does everything any other mill on the market does, and at a much lower price, check it out.



 

[wwsjr]

This is pic of WoodMizer LT15 with gas engine set up to cut 44 feet. Log on mill is 40 feet. Do not know what total cost would be. This one is in south MS, saw it at the WM 25 Aniv Show.

[pegs1]

Gary, 

I want to buy one.   I buy my timbers now.   I have spent enough in the last 6 months oin timbers to buy a good used one.

I expect to buy enough in the next 6 months to buy a new one.

I'm looking for the flexiblility of cutting my own timbers as well as having a little better quality control.

Selling te board lumber won't hurt my feelings either.

I already have a lot of heavy handling equipment.   Now I just need a saw.

The saw will be set up at our current leased site until we get the new building built.    We'll be building a new building as soon as the frost is out of the ground.   So I really will only need to be "portable" from the old site to the new one.

I'm really not looking to move it around.

Is there another company I should look at besides woodmizer?

[Faron]

Sounds like a WM with a bed extension will fit the need.  I have never used an extension, but I think it will slow down setup if used portable.  Any way you can set up on your final site?  As Gary C  said, the seat is not necessary.  You can walk beside the mill. I think that gives you a little flexibility to help handle lumber as well as getting out of the way if something goes wrong.

[pegs1]

Faron,

Thats kinda what I have been thinking as well.   I'm not looking for high production.   I'm looking for good use of the timber and accuracy.

Right now I get a lot of wasted timbers.    Worm holes, bark, pith, etc.    I'm hoping if we cut ourselves we can make a decision what is the best use of material while we are cutting instead of cutting it, hualing it 2 1/2 hrs then trying to figure out what to do with it later.

We could set up on the new site.   Nothing there now.  Just an open field.   I'm a little concerned about leaving it sit out there next to the highway with no one around at night.    It would be good advertising though to be cutting out there.

Is there one saw that is better than another with regard to the size (diameter) log it can cut?    Timberking seems to be tooting their horn about their carriage and throat ? size.

[Tom]

While a lot of folks look on the little push mills as toys, they aren't.  They aren't production saws, in that you won't be cutting but a thousand feet of lumber a day, but they are good for long beams.  Because the head isn't connected to the track by anything other than wheels, you can build a track to cut as long as you want.

While there are a lot of manufacturer's out there, it only makes sense to look at our sponsors first.  They make the forum available through their donations.  Their links are on the left and accessible by clicking their logos.

Because the push mills are at the bottom of the price range, they may be your best bet.  You can get a new one for a fraction of a larger portable mill and it will suffice until you see how your business needs to be set up.  Then you might look at a faster and more sophisticated mill. 

You shouldn't make a move until you see how the mills perform.  A show, if one is close, will let you shop them all at once.  If there is no show, at least visit an owner.

Don't look for any of them to be effortless.

[JV]

When I bought my LT40, I got it with Command Control which limited any extensions.  I kept my Oscar 36 (stationary) to cut long timbers as it would be fairly easy and cheap to fabricate my own extensions.  I haven't done that yet, but when I do I will probably auger several holes in the ground the length of the bed and put all-thread rod in to ancor the rails.  I had some occasions when I couldn't manually turn the log by myself.  I had to wrap a chain around the log and use a loader to spin the log.  The first time I lifted one rail when the log went back against the stops.  I don't know how much help you have to handle your logs, but either way you need a solid bed to handle large logs.  Those 20 foot plus logs will require something pretty secure, especially to keep it accurate.  Hydraulics are a definite plus, though not absolutely necessary.

[Warren]

pegs.

I think any of the small mills listed to the left will cut accurate lumber with good set up and proper technique.   Personally, I started off with an WM LT15 set up to cut 24 feet (like the one wwsjr had the picture of).  If you already have the lifting and hauling equipment, you are a step ahead.  

When I upgraded my mill, I bought a walk along WM LT40 so I could add a 12 ft or 24 ft bed extension.  Anytime you add an extension onto a mill, you will need to check occassionaly that everything stays lined up and leveled up.  When you start bumping big logs or long logs around on a mill, things move...

Warren

[Tom_in_Mo.]

Baker sells the small manual mills that can be extended to the length that you want to cut.

Also the bigger diesel and electric mill can be made to cut up to 32' long material. These mills have to be made stationary. If I was going to cut long material I would add an extra log turner and clamp. You can also add the powered toe rollers for easy handling of the beams.

If you are interested in getting some information from me, send me your mailing address and I will be glad to send you some right out.
Tom
1-800-548-6914

[customsawyer]

I have spent the last week cutting 12"X12"X24' red oak timbers and let me be the first to tell you that there is no easy way to do it. I have the LT70 walk along with the 6' extension and it handled the logs great but the lumber coming off of it will work on you!!!!! Even 1X lumber if it is 24' long and you have the use of all the roller tables that I have creates alot of leverage on the lower back.
A side not I know that if you go with the WM and you get a remote or command control type set up you are limited to a 6' extension so if you are wanting to do 30' + you will need a walk along type.

[LT40HDD51]

Well said, everyone. True, most all the mills will work well when set up and run properly. I'll offer my input on the WMs, as this is where I know what I'm talking about  ;D. Not tryin to be Mr. Salesman here  ;)

The LT15 is a really good mill in that it is inexpensive and can be made longer whenever you want fairly cheaply with 6'8" sections. It keeps its value quite well as long as there is no major damage or wear, or a lot of hours (engine mainly... not much to wear). Same goes for most all small mills. So if you decide you want a bigger mill you can usually sell the LT15 for a pretty good return and buy what you want.

As mentioned, the command control (remote) option limits the extention length to 6'. This is because the cat-track that the cables run in from the head to the control box is the limiting factor. And a seat is great if you have lots of help  ;D. Not much good if you have to get on and off all the time...

I was just talking to my old boss out in B.C. the other night and he was telling me they have sold a lot of extensions lately. He's known for his modifications to nearly anything, and has built a fully hydraulic 24' extension, put 2  12' extensions back to back, and joined two complete mills together with the 2 heads still on the rails. Mostly custom stuff for log home builders and the like. Lots of long timber out there. I could get you some specifics if you want...

[SPIKER]

PEGS1 I sent ya a Private Message with some contact info to help ya out.

mark M

[Rail-O-Matic]

A bigger motor and bigger mill, i don't think is the way to go, like customsawyer said, you need a walk along mill to do the longer lengths, you get a better feel to how things are going ref sharpness, it would be a crying shame if you got three sides done and on the last the blade wondered on an expensive long beam or plank.

I'm running 2-1/2" wide stellite tipped blades on a 13hp Honda motor and she whistles along quite nicely, why not have a custom made bed in the length you require, and fit the head to it, it will be way cheaper than buying ready made stuff that's not up to the job in the first place, a push along mill only sits upon a given bed anyway.

Maybe you could use one 20' extension for a portable, so it is removable to add this back onto the existing static bed when you need it, this way you would have the best of both worlds.

I can do this on my rig, which sits very close to the ground for easy loading, see her here, http://www.chainsawmills.co.uk/4_stroke_powered_mills.htm

[WkndCutter]

I've been looking at the timberking mills.  The push mills do give you the option of adding more extensions at a lower cost.  I guess some of this depends on how much you want to spend.

[snowman]

Like Tom said, push mills are not for production but I'm sure happy with mine. If I run sharp blades and don't get in a hurry my beams are perfect.

[Percy]

Heya Pegs.
What Custom Sawyer said about handling the long boards/slabs is worth considering. I cut timbers daily(only 26 ft max) with a remote LT70. When I first started, I had no way to deal with the long stuff. We wrasseled and sweat and production suffered till I built a 26+ foot long recieving table. Now, the mill just drags back the big flitches/slabs on to it and the tailer/edger person deals with them by bucking in half with a handy electric chainsaw...Im getting off topic,. This may be more than you are looking for but it is a very conveinient way of cutting long timbers.  ;D