Stihl chain sharpening question

[bryanw30]

I followed the other thread pretty close, and learned a lot. I want to get something to sharpen my cain, I only use my saw a few times a year at most, mostly spring cleaning around the yard.
So after feeling how dull the current chain was, I bought a new one, and wow it felt great, like cutting butter! Well for about an hours woth of work anyway. I eventuly got stupid and got to close to the dirt tring to shorten some small stumps, and now I'm back to the same dull felling of the old chain.
Since I don't cut daily I'm not looking for a $1800 sharpener. I'd like to get a complete kit for hand files, or a reasonable priced electric sharpner. (Is ~$50 possible) What should I get?
I have a Stihl MS 290 with 16" bar, and a Corona pole cutter, probably a 9" bar.

[alderman]

I'd go with one of the clamp on chain sharpeners.  Granberg makes one that works well.  Runs around $30.00 or less.  You put in what ever size file you need and then set the angles for the particular chain you are filing.  Great way for a beginner to get the hang of hand filing.  I've been cutting wood for 30 years and I've given up on trying to file free hand.  I've tried just about every kind of set up out there including the dremel type grinder and prefer the clamp on chain sharpeners for normal use.   Another thing I've found is even with this set up I still have to use the Oregon chain grinder to get things back in shape after awhile.  In your case, after it gets to the point where you aren't having any luck with the clamp on sharpener, take the chains to a shop and have them sharpened there.

[beenthere]

bryanw30  Welcome to the forum.
You can get it sharp any number of ways. None of them cost much money, and all will require some knowledge of what constitutes a sharp edge and depth gauge for each tooth, at the right cutting angles (and there are several).  If you've read up on the other threads, its most been said and you can pick the ones to suit your taste. Bottom line is to get the chain sharp. Nothing beats a sharp chain. Whatever you do, enjoy getting it done. 
I prefer to hand file the best of all the others I've tried. Fastest, and bestest. 

Ask away when you get it going, and you will get a lot of help, with whatever you are trying out.

[Ianab]

My personal choice is the little kits with a file guide, depth gauge and round / flat files. It does take a little practise, but have a good look at the cutters on a new chain and remember how the angles are. Then just try and keep it looking like that  ;) The clamp on file guides work good too, but they cost more and aren't as easy to carry around in your back pocket.

If you badly file a chain it's usually just a matter of filing it a bit more untill it's right again.

Some hints - File the chain as soon as it doesn't cut like new anymore. Then it will only take a couple of file strokes on each cutter. If you let it get badly worn you then need to file away a lot more cutter to get a sharp chrome edge again.
Make sure you keep the cutters on both sides the same, as most people favour one side over the other you may file better on one side. You end up taking off more metal and the cutters end up uneven and try and cut in a circle. Some guys will file 2 strokes on one side, 3 on the other once they figure out what they are doing.

Keep practising till you get it right. Whats the worst that can happen? You file away a chain and wear out a file, no big deal 

Cheers

Ian

[thecfarm]

Welcome to the forum bryanw30.I was on the other thread with my great advice.  :D  You won't get it right the first time.Just keep on trying.You will get the hang of it.

[metalspinner]

One thing I noticed on my maiden sharpening voyage was that there was a little resistance on the file until the cutter was shaped like the file.  My guess is that the next time you sharpen that chain, things will be smooth from stroke number one?

Make sure you keep the cutters on both sides the same

Do you mean the same lenghth?  That would be kind of difficult without lot's of measuring.  Do different lenghth cutters make you go crooked on a cut, different angle's, or different sharpness'?

On my Stihl chain there is a little angled line Toward the back of the tooth.  Is this an angle guide or a "do not sharpen past this line" mark?

[leweee]

metalspinner.....try to keep the teeth the same length on both sides .... they don't have to be exact ....just close. ;D
as for the marks at the back of the teeth, they are guides to keep the top plate at that angle....by the time you file back to them you have "pensioners teeth" that are down to the gums and need a new chain. ;D

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=23764.0

[bryanw30]

My personal choice is the little kits with a file guide, depth gauge and round / flat files. It does take a little practise, but have a good look at the cutters on a new chain and remember how the angles are. Then just try and keep it looking like that  ;) The clamp on file guides work good too, but they cost more and aren't as easy to carry around in your back pocket.

Thanks. Where do I get a "kit"? Short of going back to my Stihl dealer. Not that's it's real far away, it's just easier to order something online for me.

Is this what I should get if I want to do it both ways?
http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/5628.html
http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/5220.html

Thanks

Update: I had to make an emergency run to the shop anyways today, needed fuel gasket for rotertiller, so I picked up a Stihl file kit. I don't think it has a bar clamp, but I should be fine, enough to cut what I need to anyway.

[Ianab]

Do you mean the same lenghth?  That would be kind of difficult without lot's of measuring.  Do different lenghth cutters make you go crooked on a cut, different angle's, or different sharpness'?

On my Stihl chain there is a little angled line Toward the back of the tooth.  Is this an angle guide or a "do not sharpen past this line" mark?

Yes, try and keep the cutters the same length. Doesn't have to be exact with a micrometer or anything, but if you can see a difference then one side will be higher than the other (because the cutter slopes downward). If the chain gets like this it will cut more agresivly on one side, and tend to cut in a curve. It's also a problem if you graze a nail or rock with one side of the chain. If you have to file away a lot of metal to get one side sharp then you have to treat the other side the same, even if it's not blunted.

The little marks on the top of the cutters are both an angle guide and a 'worn out' mark. Keep the cutter angle matching that line, and once you file down to it get a new chain  ;)

Cheers

Ian

[Tony_T]

If you've got a bench mounted vice use it to clamp the bar of the saw when sharpening with a file, makes things much easier.  In the woods, cut a shallow grove in a piece of scrap log/stump to hold the bar in place when sharpening.

[rebocardo]

The granberg rig works prettry well for the money, I used mine a lot before I bought a grinder ($150). One thing I learned is not to lean on the unit/file too much as it will end up wearing the rig out. I bought mine at Baileys.

[sawmilllawyer]

Bryan 30, I agree with Ianab use a hand file regulary to keep chain sharp. But when it  eventually when it gets to dull take it to the saw shop for a grind costs  about $4.00. I usually keep a three or four chains per saw around, some new, sone used once or twice, and one pretty used one for stump removal. You know dirst, rocks, trash in the dirt, rocks, stump. 

[sawmilllawyer]

 Bryan 30 ???Well went to Harbor Freight in OKC today  and well, sorta, kinda, broke down and bought their chainsaw chain sharpener on sale for $39.95 have'nt used it yet. I know it is not a "pro" set up but I think with a little tinkering it will suffice. Read a thread somewhere on here about this sharpener and it seems the opinions were evenly divided. Somtimes I just gotta find out for myself. 

[PineNut]

I recently purchased the Harbor Freight sharpener also. Definitely not what you would want if you were doing a lot of sharpening but it does a good job for occasional sharpening. I sharpen 3 or 4 times with a hand held sharpener and then run it through the Harbor Freight sharpener. Works good for me.

[sawmilllawyer]

Thanks PineNut, I gonna give it a try. Andy

[bryanw30]

Bryan 30 ???Well went to Harbor Freight in OKC today  and well, sorta, kinda, broke down and bought their chainsaw chain sharpener on sale for $39.95 have'nt used it yet. I know it is not a "pro" set up but I think with a little tinkering it will suffice. Read a thread somewhere on here about this sharpener and it seems the opinions were evenly divided. Somtimes I just gotta find out for myself. 

Sadly I didn't even know that store was there! Looks like near the corner or Wally & Sam's (Which I frequent every couple of weeks!)

But since I just bought files, I doubt wife would let me drop another $40 for a saw we rarely use.

But following the advise of different blades for "stumping" might help. Use one for limbing and dropping the few trees i need to, then swap blades to get closer to the ground.

[sawmilllawyer]

Bryan30, it's not far from Sam's North side of I-40 instead of South side. Know what you mean about cost control on toys,er ah, tools.