Log bunk system for swing mills

[hansbaba]

 Hello everyone,
The log deck I've been working with is 10, 14, 18, and 20' lengths. I'm using the hi/lo on my WPF. It seems like I am spending way too much energy moving log bunks around. I am using three 4' 8x8's with an 8"x2" notch cut out of the center of each. Once I roll the log up I use a hilift jack to level out one end or the other. It seems to work fine and I dont have any log movement at all, but does anyone have a system of bunks that maybe works a little easier?(ie: not picking them up and shuffling them back and forth.) Or am I just being a little bit too wimpy here? Any tips?

Thanks

[Captain]

I typically have 3-4 bunks available with various size notches ranging from 5 to 8 ".  Rather than deal with the log taper after it gets in the mill, I will usually preset the bunks to what I think I will need, by notch size and/or shimming with 2x6s.  With some practice, I'm usually right about 90 percent of the time.  For the other 10% of the time, I'm jacking like you described.

Another tactic is when I am moving/stacking logs, I place all my logs with the small end toward the beginning of the mill, and the large end away.  This makes it easier to locate my next cuts, and I have less time invested swapping bunks around whne the "big end" of the log changes places.

On long logs, I never saw with more than 2 notched bunks.  I use a large wedge somewhere in the middle of the log for sag support.  In most circumstances, my notched bunks are within 2 feet of the end of the log or a little closer.  I always place my 8x8 bunks on a 2x8 ground skid.  It makes it easier to slide a loaded set of bunks on the 2x8 rather than the ground to center the log in the rails if necessary.  Also, on uneven ground, the ground skid gets leveled; not the bunks.  Just one last tip, I almost always (except when double cutting) raise the right side of my bunks about 2-3" so the left side of the notch is lower.  This allows me to recover more of the bottom slab when sawing. 

Happy Sawing;

Captain

[Nate Surveyor]

In my opinion, this is a WEAK point in the swingmill program.

Somebody should invent a cam system, to set the bunk height.

Something that allows log taper to be adjusted in less than one minute, for ALL logs, and situations.

I have been racking my brains for the perfect setup. Right now, I am working on the idea of a bunk that hinges on the RIGHT side, (right side, when pushing and the blade is horizontal), and cam action on the left side.

Right now, I have a 4"x6" Pine bunker, with a 2"x2" oak strip on top, with notches in it. My bunkers are set at 7' 2" apart, and I sometimes add a wedge to the ends. (this is probaly not as good as cap'n's setup, 2' from the ends of the log)

Edit: I also have the 4"x6" bunkers on 2"x6" x 16" treated pieces, which keep them stable, and firm.

Anyway, there is ROOM for improvement in this dpt.

Nate

[artenvielfalt]

hi there,
i was just trying to post almost the same topic as you have.
i use the same setup as captain does, by chance i experianced the same problems and solved them the same way he does.  then i ask customer to have a tractor ready for putting the logs inside and i bought a clamp to lift the logs and a chain for them to hang loose so the log swings free and it is easy for me to lift and position the log in the right place.
another idea is to put the bunker level with the bottom of the tracks and then just cut the logs the way they come you have some short boards first but get the bottom part even and long.
just if you want to cut then this way.

take care
ulf germany

[LOGDOG]

Hansbaba,

   Check out this link: http://www.fabrik.us/sawmillsupportequipment.html

Fabrik is a member here. He has excellent ideas for log handling. There are some videos on his site you can watch to better understand. Good luck.

LOGDOG

[solodan]

In my opinion, this is a WEAK point in the swingmill program.

Somebody should invent a cam system, to set the bunk height.

Something that allows log taper to be adjusted in less than one minute, for ALL logs, and situations.

This has already been accomplished on the Lucas. Yes, I need to walk to the other end of the mill more often, but I can adjust for the taper in less than one minute, for all logs and situations. ???  Every mill has its strong points, it just seems that this is an exceptionaly strong point of the Lucas. I think that more important than designing bunks that help out would be redesigning of the frame winching systems, for not just the Peterson, but all of the swing mills. It would be nice to be able to move all of the corners together or independently, and maybe even  side to side. Usually I don't use notches, I use log dogs, so shifting even a large log with a big cant hook is easily done on the top of one bunk. If the log is too big to shift, then you can always slide one end of the frame to one side or the other. What I woul like to see on a bunk system would be a log/cant turner.

[metalspinner]

What about a couple of scissor jacks embedded in the ends of the 8x8's?  With a 2x6 perpendiculer to the bunks under the scissor jacks, you can tweak all four corner of the bunks at any time.  This will be handy when you flip the bottom part of the log to level the slab to the saw.

Here is a rough sketch of the idea...

[brdmkr]

I remember a discussion about using scissor jacks from a few months ago.  Someone mentioned that they are pretty stout in the vertical, but they want take much side-to-side pressure.  I think they were likely correct.  It would cost more, but floor jacks could be used instead and they may be more stable ???

[LOGDOG]

Have you guys taken the time to look at Fabriks log deck video? He uses bottle jacks (which are very inexpensive) in each corner. Also, you'll notice that his bunks have rollers underneath allowing for side to side adjustment to account for taper. It's worth a look.

LOGDOG

[Nate Surveyor]

Logdog, yes, I have looked at fabriks stuff. Before I bought a mill. Now that I have one, I look at his videos with a new eye.

I probably will get one of his bunkers. REally only need to adjust one end. The other can sit in a notch.

Loading is not a problem for me.

N