Need ATV Trailer Design Ideas

[jander3]

I recently purchased a Polaris 500 HO ATV.  I want to build a trailer that is just large enough to haul the ATV behind my pickup. Then, when I get up north, I want to off load the ATV, swap the trailer tounge, and tow the trailer behind the ATV.  Because this trailer will be used to haul through the woods, smaller is better.

Ideas or photos are appreciated.  I'm looking for something I can provide to the welder that will make this up for me.

[stonebroke]

If that is all you want one of the small trailers from Harbor freight or similar should work fine and it will be legal to trail behind the pickup.Problem is once in the woods it will be wider than the atv and you will tend to hit trees unless you are very  careful.

Stonebroke

[DouginUtah]

I just finished drawing up a small trailer plan in AutoCAD. I could probably modify it to fit your needs. Send me PM with what you have in mind. Is the ATV less than 48" wide? How long of a trailer would you want? How sturdy?

On second thought, what I have may be more heavy duty than you seem to want. Stonebroke's idea is pretty good. HF has a coupon for 15% off any single item right now.

[Haytrader]

Here is a trailer I made for hauling 4 wheelers and lawnmowers.



I had a 2" ball on the 4 wheeler and would haul it to the farm and then hook the trailer to the ATV. It worked very well.

[Ironwood]

I just came up w/ a design for a smallish trailer utilizing one (or a few ) of the 50 steel pallets I just bought at an auction. I will use my Norwood removeable wheel/ axle combos (I never go mobile) and they are very cool torsion stub axles w/ a 5/8 trailer hitch style pin to hold them into a box tube. The dimension of the pallets are 42 x 80 or so. These were PPG glass pallets of box tube steel. I want to be able to go into the woods and load cordwood and carry it back to the shop, pipck it up w/ the forklift and pull the axles and tongue and put them on the next pallet. I am a big fan of handling firewood only twice, to pallet, then into stove.  ;)

I will also put a winch mount, or pulley point elevated above the deck to raise a "pan" of steel (w/ bent up edges) if I want to relocate soil, gravel or ground asphalt. The pan will be removable  and hindged at the rear. I also want the tongue to be telescoping so to be able to carry longer (10') rounds of hickory from the woods. I supply myself and others w/ these. I will have side pockets for this purpose, and the standards will be removeable.

For your trailer you could do something like this where the stub axles could become a narrower "deck over style" when behind your quad, but wider AND lower for the trip home. I canttake the time to sketch this but basically your female recievers for the stubs would be at various widths and heights depending on your usage. I would not want a really narrow trailer towing at highway speeds, but would want this for trail use. Addiitonally, the wider road stance could allow you to hang the tires of the quad just over the edges.

Ironwood

        Ironwood

[rebocardo]

Well, you probably want to go 3" x 1/8 wall for the frame and use an "A" Bulldog 2" coupler.

Design a set of ramps (instead of a tail gate) that can be used from the sides or back by having them pop into closely spaced stake pockets.

Go stake pockets all around except in the front, have that a solid welded wall with a hole at the bottom to run a winch line through. Mount a winch inside the A frame. Spare tire mounted on the front, driver's side. You will find backing up a trailer, this is the best spot not to block your vision.

Other option is on the solid wall in the front, mount a small hand winch on top. Mount the tire inside the A frame.

Weld tie downs on the outside of the stake wall and inside on the floor.

A set up like this will allow you to tie down items (such as poles) and an ATV with the stake walls on or off.

Allow you to drive the ATV onto the trailer from the back or sides.

Allow you to park the trailer, chock the wheels, and pull small logs up the sides with the ATV using the ramps.

Go with P235/75R15 tires, 5 bolt Ford pattern, and 3K axle. Very cheap reliable setup with easy to source parts, tires, and rims.

Swing away jack for the front with a wheel.

On my trailer that I am modifying, I am putting welded cages on the driver's side in front of the tire to hold my gas can and spare tire. Using the A frame for misc. tool box.

[jander3]

I appreciate the thoughts.

[JBS 181]

   Before I got into the sawmill business I done some welding and built a trailer like you are talking about. I dont have the dimensions handy and I dont know if I am computer savy enough to send pictures. The trailer is probably 4" wider than the ATV and a good foot longer. I have done just what you have said and built two seperate hitches that I change out on the trailer. One of them has a drop in it so the trailer pulls level behind the ATV. The other comes out strait as to pull level behind the vehichle. The little trailer is very handy. There is some time and money behind it. If you want somthing a certain way doing it yourself or giving a welder a plan is best. Something from Harbor Freight might be cheaper but you may have to do some modifying to get it the way you want it. Good luck

[frndly neighborhd loger]

unless you have all the materials its cheaper and less time consuming to buy one.
i bought one at home depot and put a bumperball on my praire 700 and do just what you want to do. when compairing prices size matters