now this is livin

woodmills1 · May 03, 2009, 06:31:44 PM

man o man I love the edger, been letting flitches build up for the day I brought it home. 8) 8) 8)

Papa1stuff · May 03, 2009, 06:44:10 PM

I want one ;D

Hi-Country Orange · May 03, 2009, 07:04:37 PM

Me to 8)

Bibbyman · May 03, 2009, 07:28:51 PM

What happened to the outfeed rollers!

Dave Shepard · May 03, 2009, 07:50:04 PM

Yeah, it's even more fun with an outfeed on it. ;D Our Wood-Mizer with the diesel will edge 8/4 white oak with both blades in wood at 80 fpm. 8) Makes it work a bit, I will admit. ;)

woodmills1 · May 03, 2009, 08:06:39 PM

I just figured out that the rollers I picked up are the outfeed table and they travel with the mill.

Bibbyman · May 03, 2009, 08:17:43 PM

Here is what the "back end" should look like. Who knows. If you put them on, maybe you won't have nearly as much fun.

BTW, I suspect the two angle irons in your photo is used to hold one end of the outfeed rollers when mounted in the transport position.

woodmills1 · May 03, 2009, 08:33:17 PM

yes marty said the angles were for transport. What is the transport position

Bibbyman · May 03, 2009, 09:11:17 PM

It should be in the manual but they go over the top of the edger and the two angles, if I remember right, bolt into the roller frame at the front to the front of the rear roller section. (I need a picture but don't have one). The legs of the back roller section bolt into the bolt hole where the front end of the outfeed sectioni works when it's installed to use.

Not very clear is it?

Here is a link to the Wood-Mizer web site showing a vido of the edger. A little over halfway through they show the edger in transport mode with outfeed on top of the edger.

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/secondary/edger/edgerinaction.aspx

I found the above picture on the WM web site in the for sale by owner section.

CLL · May 03, 2009, 09:51:18 PM

Nice edger ;D I would like to have the knuckleboom 8)

woodmills1 · May 03, 2009, 09:56:02 PM

so you just pick up one end and slide it over the gear and blade cove looks easy

don't you think the edger would benifit from a laser light the showed the right blades position. Marty has any one suggested that.

CLL once you have a grapple you never go back to anything else for log movement transport. BTW I have 2 a blue ox and a payeur metavic

Dave Shepard · May 03, 2009, 10:24:03 PM

A laser would be cool, but you would have to be indoors, I think. Once you run an edger for a little while, alignment becomes second nature.

epiphoneprs · May 03, 2009, 11:42:18 PM

My flitch pile is stupid.

Corley5 · May 03, 2009, 11:55:36 PM

Edgers rock ;D

I've edged on the mill and it sucks ;D ;D ;)

MartyParsons · May 04, 2009, 06:30:56 AM

Yes I have seen shadow lights used and a lazer set up but not portable.

Bibbyman · May 04, 2009, 08:59:17 AM

Lazers would not works any too good out side in the direct sunlight.

woodmills1 · May 04, 2009, 09:05:19 PM

I think I need more time in checking the position cause i ruined a couple of nice 6 inch boards >:(

woodmills1 · May 04, 2009, 09:12:49 PM

this is a little off the edger topic, but there was a post I cannot find about someone who wanted to green dead stack his wagon packages and we were telling him it was a bad idea. My flitches stood for no more than 3 weeks and the carpenter ants had already gone to zoning and got the approval to build their housing units. I evictided them by wiping them off and sometimes one smack at a time. 3 weeks geeze

Climber · May 04, 2009, 10:06:23 PM

Oooo.
Nice toy.

moonhill · May 05, 2009, 06:33:14 AM

Just curious, what lengths can you do and still maintain accuracy? Shorts are a given, what about 16'? I use a edger and saw them over size then resaw on the band mill, so they come out nice and pretty, after they are dried. It is a drag to send a 15" board through and get 2, 6" boards.

Tim

Bibbyman · May 05, 2009, 08:48:52 AM

Probably not so much of a matter of accuracy but we are set up in a building where we can only make stacks up to 15' long and get them out between the posts. So we will edge up to 14' - longer flitchs are heavy and awkward to handle so we will edge them on the mill.

Some edging tips.

Take a moment to examine the flitch and see where the board is in it. If you are sawing dimension lumber then it's a bit easier as you are forced to 4", 6" or whatever. But if you are sawing for grade, it may come down to measuring as odd widths are permitted and there is a lot value that can be gained or lost but including wane or edging off defects. Edging for grade is another art and science that requires a lot of experience and at least some study and or training.

Once the width is figured out and blades set, I put the flitch on the infeed and concentrate on lining up the right edge with the right blade. I then use my right thumb as a sight point on "my end" of the flitch. Then run it through ignoring the left blade because if the board width is set right and the right edge is lined up, then the left will take care of itself. It's too confusing to try to line up on the right and left sides at the same time.

If I have a flitch that is pretty odd shaped and its of enough value to go to the extra trouble, I'll set the edger a couple of inches wider than what I figure would make the best board and run it through. Once the "odd" has been knocked off, it's easier to re-edge to a better board. Sometime one edge is ok and the fence can be used.

woodmills1 · May 05, 2009, 06:57:06 PM

YES YES YES I can see that the edger like the mill is a tool but it needs a smart dumby behind it to make a product.

CAN I SAY THAT I LOVE ORANGE

in small caps i ad that mom is gone and somehow I got her good kharma