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Stihl MS 440 bar oil

Started by AtLast, September 15, 2003, 08:20:48 PM

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AtLast

I have a new MS 440 that runs great. I work in forestry and use chainsaws on a regular basis but I have not seen a saw " react" like this before. Typicall the gas will run out long befor the bar oil res. empties. I dont know of an adjustment nor have I seen a saw that " uesally" the fuel is gone befor the bar oil. Useally they are about the same level...question is...do I have a problem? ???

woodmills1

My new 066 seems to be the same the oil is only half on a fuel fill.  It slings oil off the bar when I check so I am just sayin it is ok.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

SasquatchMan

Stihl's webpage says those saws have an adjustable oiler, so maybe a check in the manual or a close look at the oiler will give you a more natural/balanced flow... you would think that they'd be set decently at the factory though, wouldn't you?
Senior Member?  That's funny.

Kevin

I run lots of bar lube.
The more lube the less wear and tear on the bar and chain.
If you can see it spray off the end it should be ok.

David_c

in my husky manual it says that they desing it so that you run out of gas first.

ElectricAl

AtLast and WoodMills,

Flip your new saw upside down. Near the front in the case you'll see a little hole kinda in line with the bar. Embossed in the metal is a flow amount arrow. With an 1/8" flat blade screw driver you can adjust you oil flow ;)

Our MS440 is about 3 weeks old now and I did turn up the flow a little.

Happy sawing


ElectricAl
Linda and I custom saw NHLA Grade Lumber, do retail sales, and provide Kiln Services full time.

blue_eyed_devil

I turned my oilers right down so that it runs almost two tanks of fuel to one tank of oil.I don't want alot of oil flying off the bar onto my house logs.
The logs are peeled,so there is less grit on the chain, however doing this is very hard on the bar.Thanks to Kevin for the tip on keeping the rails dressed. ;D
262 xp,395 xp,built my own chainsaw mill

johncinquo

I run all my saws full bore on the oil, all the time.  I would rather go through more oil than end up buying bars, chains, sprockets, and eventually motors.  
 I have just starting switching over to something, and maybe in cutting house logs you might do the same.  I started using vegetable oil!  No kidding.   I thought it was a big joke over on another site, then specificly asked the guys who say they were doing it and they confirmed in fact that is what they were using.  One guy says he has been using it for some time with no ill effects.  I don't particularly care for bar oil all over me, the truck, and everything else all the time.  If it works OK for me I will report back either way.
While you are checking your 440 over, check to make sure the oil tube, holes in the bar, and anything else is not plugged or even slightly clogged.  I had a terrible time awile back with one and it was 1 piece of wood chip lodged inside a tube that wa slowing the flow down enough to make  anoticeable difference.  An oil pump on a saw is not a high pressure set up, and can not put out enough pressure to unclog anything of size usually.  Cheers, JB
To be one, Ask one
Masons and Shriners

blue_eyed_devil

I would be worried about attracting bugs and critters later on after the house is built.I use Husky clear all year round.
I do the majority of my cuttting with the nose,so I keep the sprockets greased several times a day.I hate buying those expensive little tubes.I was wondering if anybody uses wheel bearing grease instead?
262 xp,395 xp,built my own chainsaw mill

Oregon_Rob

One of the things to think about is what kind of cutting you are doing. If you are cutting brush and limbing, by are not going to need as much oil as if you were bucking good sized logs all day long.
Chainsaw Nerd

Captain

The question of greasing the bar tip.....

I had a friend that greased his bar tip with regular chassis grease and it did not last long.  Wheel bearing grease may last longer as it has better temperature characteristics.  I have always used and recommended those darn little tubes.

My uncle ran a saw shop when I was a kid, and he used to recommend turning up your oiler on the "big bar" saws so your oil tank consumption was about 3/4 to a full tank of fuel.  He also DID NOT RECOMMEND lubricating the sprocket nose, but keeping your bar groove clean.  Once lubricated with grease, bar oil can no longer get to the bar tip.  I have always followed his practice and recommended it to customers.  I have never worn a tip out before bar body replacement was necessary.

Having said that, Uncle Larry did recommend lubricating bar tips on saws routinely used in dirty or abrasive conditions.  The grease keeps the dirt and grit OUT of the roller.  He had a habit of making "stump chains" out of old worn chains and used a bar with a greased tip for this activity.

Captain

Larry

I had a conversation with a Husky Rep a while back and there recommendation is to grease the bar tip at every refill or not at all.  Forgot the reason why.

I turn up the bar oil all the way because of the way I cut.  Bar is buried most of the time and I do a lot of bore cutting.  Oil is cheap.  Chains and bars are expensive
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

AtLast

Thanks for the input fellers.....I thinkin I agunna be turnin up the oil....Im buckin logs all day I go with the ole " the more oil ..the fewer bars"...thank again

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