NOS circle saw blade

[rpg52]

So, I ran across a new, solid tooth saw blade that would fit my Belsaw for fairly cheap.  Would it make sense to have it cut down for inserted teeth?  I'm not interested in using it as is, opinions?  Thanks,
Ray

[jimparamedic]

it ould be cheaper to by a new saw I would use it as is until you find the saw you want and keep the sold tooth for a spare

[Jeff]

Would it make sense to have it cut down for inserted teeth? 

Nope.

[sawthemlogs]

i dont think i would .i would agree with jimp... i believe my saw shop charges about 25.  bucks per tooth not sure if this includes shanks and bits for that much i would put my money in good used one

[bandmiller2]

Ray,what diameter is that solid tooth,is it ment to be a headsaw or designed for some outher use.If it is in fact a Belsaw blade and you can get it cheap enough it would tide you over until you could find an inserted tooth headsaw.You would become quite adept at swedging.I have an old 48" solid tooth headsaw I keep wanting to try but am too cheap to have it tensioned just to try it.If you can buy it cheap consider it education money spent,you would have done something most of us have not.Not practical to have it converted to inserts.Frank C.

[amberwood]

another option would be to have it fitted with braze in carbide tips.

DTR

[rpg52]

Thanks for all the input.  It is a 42", and since I already have a 40" "B" pattern and a 48" "3" pattern, I'll just pass on it.  Thanks again,
Ray

[bandmiller2]

Ray,was just looking at you mill pictures I think it was talked about before but thats a little too much angularity on that drive shaft.I would bring the engine up some and build a shack over it ,double wall with insulation to quiet it down.Have a couple of doors to open,away from you, for ventilation.Nice foundation ,it is alot of work to set up a circular mill. Frank C.

[bandmiller2]

Ray, forgot to mention those old detroits love to puke oil out the airbox drains,keeping the oil level topped off tends to increase it.If the level is kept around the add oil mark they have plenty and don't spit as much out.If you run the exhaust pipe,after the muffler, into several legnths of smoke pipe and get it high much more pleasant to work around,unless you have a bad skeeter problem.Frank C.

[rpg52]

Thanks Frank,
It's an old photo, I did take your advice (was it you?  I forget now.)  I raised the differential behind the engine - reduced the angle.  Also, have put shed roofs over the engine and the saw works, still need a frame to support a 1/4 sheet of Lexan in front of the sawyer (me), a sawdust drag, and some dead rolls to catch the slabs and planks.  Pretty close other than that.
Ray

[bandmiller2]

Thats good news Ray.What also works for a "flack" screen is a section of fireplace screen.Even the chainmail type pull screen used in front of fireplaces mounted from the overhead just your side of the saw,of course mounted so however it swings it cant hit the saw,it absorbes impacts well and keeps that stringy crap out of your face.Frank C.