2 post vs. 4 post mills

welderskelter · January 25, 2010, 01:31:33 PM

Thanks logwalker. I am going to have a good 4 in. of travel built in then so that should handle it. Thanks Harold

welderskelter · January 25, 2010, 01:43:21 PM

I have bearings for it to roll on and I am putting 1/4 in. white plastic on for slides on the pressure side or maybe both sides. If that dont work I plan to put a bearing on front and back of pressure side. Think it will work? Harold

shinnlinger · January 25, 2010, 04:28:48 PM

Now that we are onto wheels, my turner has trailer tires for bandwheels. THey are convex vs concave, so I don't know about the V business My big old powermatic bandsaw also is also convex, but with hard rubber on cast bandwheels. The tires are nice because (besides cheap and easy) they absorb the expansion and contraction and in fact, I have NEVER broken a band.

Dave

Tom · January 25, 2010, 09:56:05 PM

I think there are two conversations going on here. The one above, is about the wheels that ride on the track, and the one below it is about the band wheels that carry the band blade. :-\

welderskelter · January 25, 2010, 10:39:50 PM

Yea, but what the heck. :

Tom · January 25, 2010, 11:04:51 PM

Just so that we all recognize that we aren't having the same coversations. :D

welderskelter · January 26, 2010, 02:00:04 PM

Ok. The mill is coming along pretty good so may I ask what type of lift system most use to lift the blade and wheels up and down with. I will post some pics of my mill soon, I am sure everybody will get a good laugh since I started with my boat dock. Ha Figured if I can get the carriage to work I can always update. Thanks Harold

bandmiller2 · January 27, 2010, 08:11:23 AM

Hal,probibly the easiest way to raise and lower is a shaft or pipe with wire cable rapped around it crank and ratchet wheel.I had hydraulics on the carriage so mounted a hyd.cylinder verticle with a double sheve in the yoke,cables to each side to raise and lower.The reeving of the cables through the pulleys gives me 2" saw travel for 1" piston travel.Aluminum yardstick and pointer for cut adjustment.Spool valve gives fine enough adjustment.Power up and down is handy you can make many cuts on a cant bringing the saw up and back over the cant easily.Frank C.

Hilltop366 · January 27, 2010, 12:26:24 PM

The only way I would go with a manual raise and lower again is with a counter weight or a preloaded spring and a high ratio crank, I have a worm gear hand winch on mine and it is slow and tiring and gets old quick, imo.

Fla._Deadheader · January 27, 2010, 12:42:44 PM

QuoteI have a worm gear hand winch on mine and it is slow and tiring and gets old quick, imo.

Do you have a spare 12V Battery ??? Put a motor on that winch. It's probably the same type winch we use on Homey.

Java thingy is locking up my computer. Look in the For Sale on page 3-4-5, and find our Sawmill for sale. Should be a decent photo of the winch and motor, there. ???

Hilltop366 · January 27, 2010, 10:17:10 PM

Was thinking about it, but then got the idea of making a whole new mill and scrapping this one for the steel for the new one.

Thanks

thecfarm · January 28, 2010, 08:12:06 AM

Probaly bandmiller means this,

This is a Thomas Sawmill.Made by a small machine shop in Maine.More pictures in my gallery.
I have to turn the handle 14 times for an inch.I made marks on a ruler to get a full ¾ or 1 inch.Works very well.I am lifting a 20hp Honda motor.I kinda have a bum shoulder,but it does not bother it.But I only saw for 3-4 hours a day and not every day either.