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40 Inch Circle Blade, Can You ID It?

Started by Dangerous_Dan, February 09, 2005, 12:44:23 PM

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D._Frederick

D-D,

The mandrils are made out of high alloy steel, I would not use cold rolled stock. The stock that is used for mandrils is turned, ground, and polished shafting. Check with Meadows and see what steel they are using,  maybe they would sell you a mandril for an old model.  The saw fixed collar is shrunk fitted to the mandil, it requires quite a bit of skill to get the sizes correct and heat one piece and freeze the other. The collar and shaft are machined as a unit so that they are absulutely true. This is why they cost 2K for a new one.













UNCLEBUCK


Dnagerous Dan you da  man if you cant do it nobody can !  Here is my old hunk a junk hydraulic conversion but I probably going back to belts maybe ?  I jsut used a old corn picker gear on the shaft that goes to the carriage pulley and plugged the hyd hoses right into the back of a tractor. Small hyd motor isnt it but you wouldnt know it because it seems to play with a loaded carriage .
UNCLEBUCK    bridge burner/bridge mender

Corley5

Before you spend a bunch of money on new mandrel you might want to consider buying another whole mill and making one from two.  There's one on Ebay now
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3871785806&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
and here's one that ended a while back but it didn't have a mandrel or blade either.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=61790&item=3870458453&rd=1
According to my Corley lit their mandrels were made of a "special extra strength steel" SAE X-1335 with higher tensile strength than standard cold rolled shafts SAE 1020.  Speaking of flywheels on mandrels my #5 doesn't have a flywheel.  It's 2 15/16" 12' foot long with 4 bearings.  It has two flat belt pulleys on one end.  One is belted to the engine the other is for running an edger etc.  They aren't of flywheel weight.  I've got the PTO shaft that bolts to the end of the mandrel to run the mill with a farm tractor.  Grandpa used his W-6 McCormick Deering(same engine as M Farmall) to run the mill originally.  I've seen buzz saws that were meant to be run with a single cylinder hit and miss engine with cast iron flywheels to smooth out the engine impulses.  Modern mills have flywheels on them ???  Now wonder you can saw through headblocks with them ;) 
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

Greenskeeper

Dan figer out what you want,let me know. I have several old mills and parts of mills around here.Tade only.

Dangerous_Dan

Project Overview

What I have is
A set of tracks with rotted wood
4 headblock carrage and setworks with rotted wood
The pulleys for the carrage drive - no belts
cable pulley and gear for carrage drive - gear has 3 broken teeth
The mandrel bearing mouning plates, 1 is good the other has been repaired
40 inch blade

What I need
The mandrel shaft with bearings and the pulley for the carrage drive that is on this shaft
The flat belts for the carrage drive
gear for carrage drive cable drum shaft
New wood or metal to repair the carrage and track frames - I'm not sure what would be best/easier.
an extra piece of track - one is bent
A bigger blade and replacement teeth
The tool to remove the teeth

What do you all got that will get me going??


First you make it work, then you trick it out!

Frickman

Dangerous Dan,

I would try to find another mill or two and try to piece something together. You are currently missing some high dollar items. I wouldn't concern myself with the saw just yet, you need to get the mill together first. I may have a few odds and ends Frick parts lying around the place that may help you out. When you get to needing a saw I got a couple extras in this winter. There is a 48" saw and a 60" saw on sawboards sitting in the garage in pretty good shape. I haven't had a chance to take a look at them though, so I don't really know what I have. Maybe by spring I'll get them out and see what's there.

The number 3 teeth are OK, but hey are kind of obsolete. I have a 60 year old Atkins number 3, 50" that does an OK job in hardwoods, but was really made for softwoods. You can still get standard steel bits and shanks for it, but I have not been able to find carbide number 3 bits. It is on loan to the local tractor club to run on their 00 Frick, and does a good job for them. 40" is kind of small for an 01, but it may be a good saw to learn on.
If you're not broke down once in a while, you're not working hard enough

I'm not a hillbilly. I'm an "Appalachian American"

Retired  Conventional hand-felling logging operation with cable skidder and forwarder, Frick 01 handset sawmill

Pretend farmer when I have the time

sjh

Dan
I have a mandrel shaft with pillow blocks, pulleys and collers. I do not know how straight the shaft is. It is a extra I got with my frick and I have never looked it over that well. I also have other small parts. If I can find my camera I could get some pictures for you.
Is your mill the one that was on e-bay. Just wondering because it has a right angle gears that I do not have.
My saw is direct drive. I use a straight six with a 4 speed trany. I run in first gear at 500 rpm. If I had a big tractor I would use that.

Dangerous_Dan

Yes it's the one that  was recently on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=61790&item=3870458453&rd=1
It was close by and looked to be in good shape. I little pricey but looks like it would be nice mill if I can get it up and running.
If you have parts that I need to get this going post pics of what you've got or IM me. I have stuff for trade if cash ain't your thing.
I wanna start makin' sawdust with a big ol' wheel!  ;D and have a Unimog powering it!  ;)




First you make it work, then you trick it out!

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