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I need help! STIHL MS 250

Started by trickn7474, January 19, 2011, 07:17:15 PM

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trickn7474

I'm a disabled veteran, I have a hard time starting my saws because of my disability. My saws are 2 Stihl MS 250's. I'm getting tired of taking them to get worked on. I am reasonably mechanically handy, but don't know squat about Stilhs.

What happens is they start and I have to pump the trigger to keep it running and then it quits.

ladylake

 Try opening the low adjuster 1/4 turn or so, if they have limiter caps you might have to remove them.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

CX3

I would take both of them and trade them for a new saw that has the "easy start" pull rope.  That feature is really useful for men like yourself.
John 3:16
You Better Believe It!

isawlogs


No need to trade those saws in for new ones , you can have an elastostart handles put on those saws and it will make starting them a lot easier. the handle has an elastic part to it that absorbs any choc or kick back from starting. I have it on a few of my stihls here, where on them when I bought them.
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

ErikC

 Don't those already have the easy start? Sounds like pulling on it isn't the problem, it won't idle when started. Carb adjustment, pickup in tank, carb cleaning, or pinhole in fuel line is where I would start. In that order.
Peterson 8" with 33' tracks, JCB 1550 4x4 loader backhoe, several stihl chainsaws

ladylake

Quote from: ErikC on January 19, 2011, 09:09:21 PM
Don't those already have the easy start? Sounds like pulling on it isn't the problem, it won't idle when started. Carb adjustment, pickup in tank, carb cleaning, or pinhole in fuel line is where I would start. In that order.

Sound like a good order too me, my first guess is that they got switched over to ethonal and need more fuel now.      Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Saw Dr.

I have only worked on a handfull of 1123 series Stihls THIS YEAR... 

Maybe a couple of truckloads of them last year.  The 1123 series is the 021,023,025, and MS-210,230,250.  As with the other Stihl saws and the homeowner ones inparticular, the fuel lines are suspect.  They are quite often cracked.  I have seen several impulse lines bad on those, as nearly as many disconnected from yanking the saw out of a pinch.  Usually the A/V mounts are dislodged from this trick as well.  The real achilles heel of this series is the crank seals.  Almost all of them that visit my shop over 5 years old will need new crank seals.  I would get yourself an 8mm six-point socket, and remove the muffler nuts.  Pull the muffler off the studs and see what the piston looks like.  If it is not scored up, these saws are certainly worth fixing.  Here is the order I would proceed:

Make sure the impulse line is connected at the nub on the orange handle where it meets the carburetor on the backside.  If it is, move on to the fuel line, and check for cracks right where it exits the fuel tank.  If the line is cracked, you will need to replace it, and clean out the carburetor.  If the line is in good shape, buy one and keep it on the shelf anyway.  Next, you will want to look into the impulse line further to make sure it is not cracked.  This will require removal of the orange top handle, and may not be something you'll want to tackle.  The crank seals are also a bit difficult to swap, and I always recommend splitting the engine to do it.  There is provision in the Stihl tech literature for replacing the seals with a special kind that do not require case splitting, but I have never liked they type of seal.  The MS-250 is a very reliable saw, and I have several tree-service guys running them on a daily basis. 

I will be happy to guide you through any repairs you need to make should you decide to tackle it your self.  I find repaiing these things to be very rewarding, and definately less expensive then taking it in...
I don't try to explain to others why I play with chainsaws.  For those who already know, no explanation is needed.  For those who do not, no explanation is POSSIBLE!

Super 250

joe_indi

Before going in too deep,I would pull out the spark plugs from both the saws and check their status.
Dry and pale in color, low fuel delivery is the probable reason. Causes? Blocked pickup body or carb strainer.
But if the plug is wet and black in color, too much fuel could be the reason. The causes could be blocked air filter or a worn out metering needle.

Joe


SawTroll

Quote from: ladylake on January 19, 2011, 07:25:38 PM
Try opening the low adjuster 1/4 turn or so, if they have limiter caps you might have to remove them.  Steve

If he is lucky it can be that simple, but I would think in smaller increments than 1/4 turn.
Information collector.

ladylake

 With both saws doing it it kinda points to crapola gas but they both could start acting up at the same time for other reasons. Troll, I adjust mine a little rich to start with then back in as needed.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

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