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Where to get a JD 440C winch side plate?

Started by 5akman, November 02, 2010, 11:32:01 AM

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5akman

I have a mid '80's 440C that has a cracked/leaky winch end plate. I don't know it it can be brazed without distorting or if I have to chase down a replacement plate. Any suggestions on where to find one?
1978 JD 440C

treefarmer87

1994 Ford L9000
2004 Tigercat 718
1998 Barko 225
1999 John Deere 748G
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CTR 314 Delimber
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treefarmer87

1994 Ford L9000
2004 Tigercat 718
1998 Barko 225
1999 John Deere 748G
FEC 1550 slasher
CTR 314 Delimber
Sthil 461
Sthil 250


5akman

1978 JD 440C

tjdub

Quote from: 5akman on November 02, 2010, 11:32:01 AM
I have a mid '80's 440C that has a cracked/leaky winch end plate. I don't know it it can be brazed without distorting or if I have to chase down a replacement plate. Any suggestions on where to find one?

I may be wrong, but I believe that winch is the JD model 3325.  This was also used on 450 crawlers from 1967 through 1983 or so.  Some of the early crawlers had the 3320 mechanical winch, but most had the 3325.  If you're looking for parts for it, you will probably have better luck checking crawler salvage yards than looking for parts skidders because there were more crawlers made.

Is it the larger circular plate on the right side that's cracked?  That's actually a bearing housing, so I have doubts that brazing is going to hold a crack.  That part is T16354, $565.00 new from deere if you can't find a used one.  Otherwise, a machine shop could probably repair it.

5akman

Yep, right side plate. I have a buddy here who says he can braze it for me but here is CA and the skidder is in AK. I may have  friend in AK pull the cover off and send it down.

Lance
1978 JD 440C

tjdub

Quote from: 5akman on November 03, 2010, 01:37:58 PM
Yep, right side plate. I have a buddy here who says he can braze it for me but here is CA and the skidder is in AK. I may have  friend in AK pull the cover off and send it down.

Shipping something that heavy from Alaska and back  will probably cost you more than having your Alaska friend take it to a local machinist to weld it and re-hone the bearing cup hole (if that's where it's cracked).

mad murdock

There are competent welding shops in Fairbanks.  You can weld cast material as long as you stress relieve it during the welding and afterward.  You Peen the weld while the metal is hot, and that will relieve the stress in the cast so it will be as strong as ever.  If you had a plate that you could hold it to while welding, so that you could keep any warping to a minimum, all the better.  Any good welder worth his salt can fix it for you there, and will know the right process to get the job done.  Why did it crack in the first place?  Did it get water in it, and freeze causing the crack?  Just wondering.
good luck, hope you get it going in good order.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

5akman

I'm not sure why it cracked but it has lots of what I'd call stress cracks across the surface. Water intrusion followed by a bitter cold AK winter would be all it'd take to finish it off!

There is a welding shop just down the road from my winter storage area so I'll probably just pull it off early next fishing season and have them do the repair.

Lance
1978 JD 440C

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