Are they ready for the ashcan?

[D._Frederick]

I have about 8 - 10 router bits that I use mostly, last week a bit didn't seem to be cutting right. So I got my hand magnifier  and looked at the carbite edge and found it to be chipped, I looked at the rest that I use most and found chips in them also.

Do you guys try to salvage them, or buy new ones?

[Fla._Deadheader]

I bought a small diamond stick. It's metal and came in a pouch. Home Depot or Lowes ???  I use it to touch up router bits and chisels, especially lathe tools, even though they are cheeeep and soft. I also touch up the planer blades, in place. Just be careful.

  It's surprising how fast it cuts the metal away, especially carbide.

  Cost around $10.00 maybe ???

  Probably better to get a flat disc type to put in a dremel tool. Not a lot of room to sharpen Router Bits. ??

[SwampDonkey]

I bought one brand of bits, they are green and 1/4" shank. Every time I use the 1/4" mortise bit it breaks and falls to the floor. I got a Freud to replace it and you cna tell the difference quality makes.

Got a set of 1/2" shank bits from Sears I think. I never used them, still in the box. Opened them up this winter and the bearings are all rusted out just from sitting. Garbage!! Hard to tell what's good and what's bad. A lot of good money tossed in the stove over router bits.  :

[D._Frederick]

Grizzly has a diamond sharpening set (H7618) that they sell for touching-up router bits.  Anybody tried them?

[Lud]

Here's a speculation in regards to SD's dilemma.   Could you store router bits in little jars of rust reaper, perhaps?   Or even mineral oil?   It would keep out the O2 which is necessary for oxidation to take  place, right? ??? : :

[SwampDonkey]

What!! Waste good Rust Reaper on junk bits? Oh, the madness. :D

[Lud]

I did suggest mineral oil as an alternative.  Think about it ....no oxygen...no rust.  Fish 'em out ,  blow them off..no need to lubricate!   Particularly for less than well heated shops. 8)

[low_48]

I've had bits commercially sharpened, but didn't like the result. The bits were smaller diameter, and didn't seem as sharp as factory. I suggest getting new bits.

[tyb525]

Left bit had 11 keyhole cuts on it, right bit had 5. Less then 10 minutes total usage time on both of them, broke one, bought another the same day, broke it too >:( They were only $10 each, but I was MAD, because I needed to have these shelve brackets done tomorrow. Lucky they couldn't get above the workpiece and hit me, took a bit of searching to find the heads though.

Thankfully I had an old HSS bit that worked okay.

[pigman]

I have broken several keyhole bits. I now run a small bit, the same size as turned down part of the bit, in the work piece first. I still break a bit sometimes, but not as often.

[SwampDonkey]

If your working in hardwood those 1/4" shanked bits heat up quick. Just don't force it though a long cut, sometimes it's better to use a straight cutter and make a couple passes to get to depth if it's over 1/4" deep. Then follow up with your keyhole bit to clean out. Freud bits seem to be better steel, German made.

[metalspinner]

Depending on the bit, I would have differing approaches.

For bits I use very often, the best quality ones should be purchased and a backup is in the drawer.  Some bits shouldn't be sharpened because the shape and size change can affect the  cutting results negatively. (Dovetail jig bits in the case.)  Light duty bits like round over bits should be able to be touched up just fine with a diamond stone.  But sharpening out chips in the edges may be just too much to bother with.

Whenever possible, I buy 1/2" shank router bits.  These run smoother with less chatter to give a better surface.

Pigman's point regarding multiple passes with different bits is very good.  This needs to be part of a procedure for certain profile cutters.  The small necks in some cutters cannot take the pressure of high speedcutting and chip removal. (keyhole bits, slot cutting bits, narow dovetail bits, etc.)

For light duty cutting like roundovers and and chamfers, Woodcraft often has their brand (the green ones) on sale for $5 a bit. 

[tyb525]

I was just making 1/2" long keyholes, going slowly but not slow enough to burn. 23,000rpm, they're rated for 32,000.

I would've bought a high quality bit, but I was in a pinch. I knew it wouldn't be too great, but I expected a little better than that >:(

[isawlogs]

If they are a good quality bit, I would deffinitly try to have them sharpened, I get my stile and rail bits sharpened.

[jamesamd]

YES,they are!
While expensive,look to replacing them,with ,Freud quadra-cut,and never look back.
You always,get what Ya pay for.Buy the best You can afford and keep them clean.You won't
be disappointed.

[SwampDonkey]

I was just making 1/2" long keyholes, going slowly but not slow enough to burn. 23,000rpm, they're rated for 32,000.

I would've bought a high quality bit, but I was in a pinch. I knew it wouldn't be too great, but I expected a little better than that >:(

About like the Chinese sandpaper, about a 20 second rub is all your gonna get.  :D

[Burlkraft]

I was just making 1/2" long keyholes, going slowly but not slow enough to burn. 23,000rpm, they're rated for 32,000.

I would've bought a high quality bit, but I was in a pinch. I knew it wouldn't be too great, but I expected a little better than that >:(

About like the Chinese sandpaper, about a 20 second rub is all your gonna get.  :D

That sandpaper
really got to you eh Donk?    :D :D

[SwampDonkey]

Rubbed me the wrong way.  ;D And no, the price wasn't cheap at all. :