? about varnish

[ely]

i am using spar varnish on the inside walls of my house. i am trying to finnish the utility room walls so i can get the water/bathroom up and running...anyway.
i went with the glossy look instead of the semi gloss or matte. wise choice for my girlfriend. it looks great, but the softer wood seems to be soaking up more varnish than the red oak and bois de arc.

my ? to you guys is would i be better off if i used a coat of sanding sealer on the wall first, and if so should i just seal the pine or the whole wall.
if i put sanding sealer on the wall will it change the outcome of the finnish from what i have now.

the wall looks great but it seems like i have a few dry spots on the pine after 2 coats. the brand is Cabot, and i am using a brush to put it on.

i will try and get a pic, but they never really show what i want them to. thanks in advance for your replies.

[Magicman]

I always use sanding sealer.  That is the only way I know to prevent your issues and insure that you get a uniform finish.

[Dodgy Loner]

Sanding sealer is a good idea if you are staining a wood that tends to be blotchy (like pine or maple). Or if you are refinishing a piece of furniture and want to form a barrier between the old finish and the new. Or if you have applied boiled linseed oil or tung oil to warm up the wood and want to topcoat with a water-based varnish. If you are using a clear, oil-based varnish on new wood (and it sounds like you are) then there is no need to use a sanding sealer, as the first coat of varnish will seal the wood. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't use it. Sanding sealer is nothing more than dewaxed shellac in a 2-lb cut. Because it contains alcohol as the solvent, it dries very quickly, which means that you can move on to your next coat within an hour or two in a properly ventilated environment. The look of the finish will not be any different if your first coat is sanding sealer.

May I ask why you chose to use spar varnish on your interior walls? ??? Spar varnish contains a higher percentage of oil than normal varnish, which has two consequences: 1) It takes longer to dry than normal varnish, and 2) It forms a softer, less-waterproof barrier than normal varnish. Neither of these would seem to me to be desirable.

[ely]

thanks for the replies guys, dodgy i guess i didnt choose the spar.... it chose me. as in it was the only can of glossy finnish that the store had. as far as i knew it was just like regular varnish with some sort of UV protection added in.

i can now get some different varnish that do not have the UV stuff in it...? will it look the same as long as i stay with the glossy ?

yes i am varnishing new wood,bare wood. the spar seems to dry overnite. im not sure about the softness on it, i will take your word on that.
bottom line it does look very nice to me, the cost of the spar is 36 bucks a gal.
high to me but it is pretty stuff.

[Larry]

I used shellac on pine to help prevent dry spots.  Also on cherry to control blotchiness.  I'm not sure that is a word. :-\

[LeeB]

Shelac will do the same for pine. Amber shelac on pine is quite nice actually.

[jamesamd]

Spar varnish is going to leave an amber color on the wood.
If using a wood sealer,DON'T follow the instructions on the can.Keep applying the sealer and reapplying in spots that drink it in until,the sealer stays wet on top for 3-5 minuets.Then wipe off the excess and let it dry for 24 Hrs.
Then,You can apply a stain or a finish,evenly.
I know,boy do I know  :D
Jim

[redbeard]

Benite wood conditioner (Dalys) will keep the spar varnish even, it will harden up the softwoods make them more durable.

[tomsteve]

all good suggestions. i usually thin varnish 50/50 with m.s and apply 2 coats before goin to full strength.

[5quarter]

A spar varnish is less durable than an alkalyd-resin varnish on account of its elasticity. it is an exterior finish and generally not used indoors unless excessive movement of the wood is expected.

   You must seal pine before applying any topcoat. oil and solvent-based finishes cure poorly over pine and especially over knots where pitch is heavy. As others have said, seal with shellac (not wax-free if finishing pine).

   The higher the gloss, the greater your durability.

   Lightly sand the pine wall and tack off with mineral spirits and let dry. mix 1 qt of white shellac (3lb cut) with 1 pint of denatured alchohol. apply a light coat over entire wall, except the knots, which you should saturate. Let dry and finish as normal.

   Gritty surface will be a problem with spar varnish. with furniture, after all varnish coats are applied, the finish is then rubbed out, waxed and buffed. the prospect of rubbing out a wall is not appealing. Spray equipment is generally used on home interiors and a cat type lacquer, conversion varnish or 2 part urethane is usually used. fast dry and very hard.

   Also, be mindful of sags and runs...varnish has very little vertical hold and due its long dry time does not flash off for hours.

Chet