Timberking B20 Band want track

[rbarshaw]

An easy way to put a temporary crown on the wheels is to put three layers of duct tape on the wheels, 1st layer is 1" wide, 2nd layer is 3/4" wide centered on the 1" layer and, last is 1/2" wide. Use Gorilla tape. If it tracks with this then It will track with the wheels having a crown machined on them. Using the tape is lower cost for a test.

[redbeard]

My Tracking problem continues even after new bearings



The 1/2" steel plate that adjustments are on cracked,It shows up when blade is at full tension.You can see the crack just above the weld on spindle axel and its actually below too, pretty tough part to just break.  At least I know what it is now been messing with this problem all week.

[ladylake]

 Are you going to put in a new part or weld it, looks like there's room to beef it up if you weld it.   Steve

[redbeard]

I ordered a new one it was 75.00, I think i will beef up the cracked one with a backer plate. It was a relief just finding the actual problem i sure was scratching my head for a few days.

[Paper Maker]

 Well I've got some good news. My dad talked to one of his old friends "a machinest"  he used to work with. He agreed to see what he could do with the wheels. He made a shaft just for chucking the wheels up in the lathe. In a few days he called and said the drive side had .025 run out. He said that he could put a crown on it and make the crown strait and true. He jokingly said it would be like reverse machining and that it would be a challenge. I finally got them back and was able to try them on some mock orange. While I was sawing, the log turned a little twisting the band. I was able to saw out the other end without the band coming off. That tells me that its finally right. I've got 2 jobs lined up for the real test, mostly pine and 2 seasoned hickory logs. It'll be a welcome change to work the saw instead of working on the saw.
     I have got one more question though. What kind of wipes do I use on crowned wheels.

[Paper Maker]

  Redbeard I hate you've got this problem; but its good you know what it is. I was able to pick those 2 bearings up for about $65.00. I'm sure you can get a better deal; but I was working on the saw and thought that I needed them at the time. I got them at a industrial supply here in town.
   I'm sure you want have anywhere near the trouble I had. After all I'm just a rookie.

[Will_Johnson]

These wheels were originally made solid and flat and at the time we felt this was the best way to go.

But...we're always questioning our own assumptions about design -- we never paint ourselves into a design corner and say "This is perfect." (Ahem.)

When we came out with our 1220 mill we put belted wheels on the mill because it was a "hobby" mill and we thought this was a more fool-proof user friendly design.

So it was. But also guess what? They worked great! So we eventually took our whole product line to belted wheels and can't say strongly enough how much better we feel about this design. My advice would be to have the wheels machined out to accept a b-section belt or to purchase new blade wheels from TimberKing.