Husqvarna rancher 455 w/24" bar - durability?

[AdkStihl]

And for the dual file guides.......just learn how to file and you'll be all set.

[beenthere]

Get a Husky roller guide kit PN: 505-6981-91 has guide for cutters and rakers with 7/32" file (3/8" chain) flat file for rakers and a file handle.  Or get 3/8" roller guide for cutters PN: 505-2437-01 and a Carlton File-O-Plate for the raker height.  I don't like the combo that files cutter and raker.  Tried it lays in drawer collecting dust.  I use roller guide and File-O-Plate.
Shep

I'm thinking that this is the roller jig you speak of. If so, I've found it to be very handy and easy/quick to use to keep the chain fine tuned for cutting.


 

[deerslayer]

STOP using the saw until you can get the muffler properly reinstalled. It can score the piston if you run it that way. With the muffler off, you can see the piston so make sure to inspect its condition prior to reinstalling the muffler.

How you are cutting the wood as pictured in your previous post will work. Bring your splitting maul and bust up the pieces you cut off until they are small enough to handle. They all have to be split eventually anyway.

You can cut a log like this into all the same length firewood, just start on the next section once you have part of the first one finished. Standard firewood length is 16" but you can cut it however long you like. Maybe a standard length isn't important for burning but sure works better for stacking.

It is not abusive to the saw to cut big wood as long as you aren't "forcing" the saw. Keep the chain sharp as others have mentioned. I too sharpen my chain after every couple tank fulls or sooner if needed. Learn how to file if you are going to be running a saw.

[CTYank]

Lots of tall tales about 455 muffler- it's an open can, quite free-flowing. Running without it can let debris into engine innards. Noise does not equate to power.

Clamp-on file guide like Granberg's is highly recommended, for ease, precision, and minimizing removal of metal. All these other guides I've seen are kludges by comparison. Grinding chains is for removing rocking damage- really removes expensive metal.

With such a guide it's very simple to touch up a chain with a couple of strokes per tooth at each fueling stop, or every other. You can't have too sharp a chain.

For any serious duty, I'd suggest that you regularly clean the cylinder fins. While cutting, regular breaks with engine at fast idle (not stopped) will dump lots of heat and pump some oil onto the chain. You might even consider a colder plug. And/or more octane. (Neither can hurt.) Rinsing the fuel tank with a little mix now and then can get rid of the stuff that can clog up your fuel filter.

Often you don't have to noodle a cut all the way through. Just deep enough to set wedges/pinch bar. Save lots of engine runtime.