Plumbing question (drip leak at water shutoff valve)

ecrane99 · April 26, 2011, 12:40:19 AM

Hi All, After cleaning my wood furnace and inspecting, I noticed a drip leak at the water shutoff valve behind the furnace. It never leaked before, but when I shut the pump off for the season, I noticed it start dripping out of the shaft that is connected to the lever. Will I need to call a plumber to replace this entire valve? Is there a way to save some $ and do it myself? Here is the picture, it is dripping where my finger is pointing. Thanks for any comments. Ed

jdtuttle · April 26, 2011, 06:23:36 AM

Tighten the nut a little.
Jim

ecrane99 · April 26, 2011, 04:57:05 PM

no luck with tightening. maybe i need to relace the entire valve.

beenthere · April 26, 2011, 05:04:35 PM

ecrane99
That prolly would be the best route. Appears there is no packing to tighten down on.

Is the valve soldered on, or threaded?

Ernie · April 26, 2011, 06:29:43 PM

It looks to be a butterfly valve, can you remove it, dismantle it and maybe pack the inside of the shaft with some teflon threadseal tape. That has worked for me in the past, I'm too much of an old tightwad to buy anything that I can fix up on the cheap. It isn't a valve that you use very often is it? If it is, and the tape doesn't work, I would replace it with a ball valve which has a packing on the shaft. Just my $0.02. It is not the sort of job for which you would need a plumber as long as you know where to shut off the water supply ;D

SPIKER · April 26, 2011, 06:58:17 PM

that appears to be a ball valve with a 90 degree turn to shut off. there are teflon seals in it and a Teflon ball seal and stem seal with a additional round stem seal that usually can be tightened a little. if the valve is on the incoming water line can you shut if off inside>? The can be re-build but most cases it is near impossible to find the re-build kits for them.
It will need to come out to be cleaned and re-packed or replaced in either case.

Mark M

ecrane99 · April 26, 2011, 10:08:21 PM

Thanks for the comments. It is threaded and there is a shutoff above the pump. I plan to take it apart and see if I can repair it in a few days.

Ernie · April 26, 2011, 10:59:16 PM

Let us know how it goes. We like pictures ;D

boilerman101 · April 27, 2011, 12:10:41 AM

Looks like what you have there is simply an isolation flange...the ball valve is built right intothe flange..If you have one like it above the pump, just close that valve to stop water flow, then loosen the 2 bolts that hold the lower flange to to pump. You probably have a 3/4" MIP fitting that threads into that lower flange that may need to be replaced. Should be an easy 5 minute replacement and fix. You may want to get a new replacement o ring for between the flange and pump if you replace the bad isolation flange.

thecfarm · April 27, 2011, 07:51:50 AM

Mine is connected to my pex pipe with a big plastic nut that is just about hand tight.Would be very simple to replace my ball valve. Looks like you have your covered with something black?

albirk · May 02, 2011, 05:22:30 AM

I don't think I would worry about it the only time you need that valve is to change out your pump cartridge leave it open till you need to work on your pump

Holmes · May 02, 2011, 01:40:43 PM

First make certain the water is not coming from the gasket between the flanges if it is replace the gasket. There should be a hex nut under the handle ,if it is there take the handle off , hold the stem and tighten the hex nut. If there is no hex nut under the handle then the outer hex nut is the packing nut, hold the handle and tighten the nut. You will not be able to do an easy repair to this , be prepared to replace the isolating flange assembly . Holmes

ecrane99 · July 28, 2011, 09:42:25 PM

Update:

I hired a plumber to replace the valves. It appears that the rust inhibitor I was using may have eroded the packing material to cause the valves to leak (my theory). I will need to dilute it. Thanks for the suggestions and help.

Ed

shelbycharger400 · July 28, 2011, 09:48:05 PM

keep your current mix of rust inhibutor... go with stainless ball valves. most rust inhibutors are an acid type.

Dean186 · July 29, 2011, 11:19:54 AM

Quote from: ecrane99 on July 28, 2011, 09:42:25 PM
Update:

I hired a plumber to replace the valves. It appears that the rust inhibitor I was using may have eroded the packing material to cause the valves to leak (my theory). I will need to dilute it. Thanks for the suggestions and help.

Ed

Ed, Did you test the treated water in the outdoor furnace by using Central Boilers test kit. If so, what were the numbers? I would be concerned with lowering the numbers to less than recommended by Central Boiler.

Central Boiler does state in their manual to not exceed treatment of higher than 30 drops by the nitrite test. My manual states: "After the initial treatment, maintain the nitrite level between 15-20 drops by the nitrite test."

I added the amount recommend at installation and it tested at recommended levels. A year later I tested the water and the nitrite level was 23 drops.

What does Central Boiler say about the gasket theory?

ecrane99 · July 30, 2011, 10:51:52 AM

Dean, I was at 30 drops. I diluted down to 24 drops. Ph is at 8 so I am going to increase that to 9 later today. I think that was too much for this particular brand ball valve to handle. I did go with a higher quality valve now.

My dealer told me to use 2.5gal to start with, but that put my readings at 30 or higher.