Lumber Dimension

[Tree Feller]

For small mill operations, when sawing and selling construction lumber is it normally cut full dimension, like 2" x 4" or nominal dimension, 1 1/2" x 3 1/2"?

I understand that nominal dimension is after drying and planing but I'm interested in how most folks here saw and sell it. I recently had some Pine sawn into full 2" x 4" but then realized that it would not "fit" on a nominal PT 2x4 plate.

[5quarter]

Tree feller...Usually it's cut 1 5/8" X 3 5/8" to allow for some shrinkage if the target size is nominal dimension. For my own use, I cut full dimension lumber. A few work arounds, but worth the effort, IMO. I did have a fellow ask me to cut his widths nominal and his thicknesses full. I bet it made for some stout walls.

[Okrafarmer]

Sometimes you just have to ask them, based on their project. I prefer to use full thickness stuff, myself.

[tyb525]

What 5quarter said, usually cut about 1/8th oversize to allow for shrinkage. Nominal size would match up with existing framing, unless it is a very old house. However, cutting it 2" by 3 1/2" mean it would still work with nominal lumber in most situations.

Be aware your lumber will usually need to be grade stamped in order to meet code regulations.

[Tree Feller]

Thanks for the answers. I guess I just needed reassurance that full dimension 2"  lumber wasn't wasteful.

Code isn't a concern where I live and besides, it will all go towards outbuildings anyway.

[jdtuttle]

I do what 5quarter does 1/8 inch over nominal size. For thickness i usually saw 6/4.
jim

[Buck]

Most of the folks i cut for want wood that compares to "storebought " too.  I too cut about 1/8 oversize in that situation. I like the results from cutting, drying and re-sizing but like most, I don't take the time to do it very often.

[bandmiller2]

I always ask what dimention they want if they want say 2x4 I prefer to cut to that dimention less the kerf which ends up 1 7/8 x3 7/8,or boards just under 1".Its conveniance for me as my bandmill uses a yardstick and pointer.Example a 12"x12" cant would give me 12 boards just under 1" thick. Full dimention just require a little more "figgering". Frank C.

[Okrafarmer]

Ah. My bandmill has factory settings that are exact dimensions, plus maybe 1/16 over. If I do anything other than that, I have to do a lot of figgering.

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

I do not saw 2 x 4's for customers until they order them just because of your question and may I say this is a good question.
My inventory consist of stacks and stacks of 1 x 8 x 8, 1 x 10 x 8, 1 x 10 x 10, 1 x 10 x 12's. I can sell these sizes as fast as I can mill 100 boards for each size.
My customers have learned how I operate and they will order their 2x's ahead of time and feel comfortable knowing I have the other boards in stock.

[Sixacresand]

On the WM LT10 you have to manually set the thickness using a pointer and ruler on the machine.  I created a chart so I could read the settings. It is based on a 1/8" kerf.  Its hard for me to "do the math" with everything else you need to pay attention to while sawing. 

[Amax]

I do not saw 2 x 4's for customers until they order them just because of your question and may I say this is a good question.
My inventory consist of stacks and stacks of 1 x 8 x 8, 1 x 10 x 8, 1 x 10 x 10, 1 x 10 x 12's. I can sell these sizes as fast as I can mill 100 boards for each size.
My customers have learned how I operate and they will order their 2x's ahead of time and feel comfortable knowing I have the other boards in stock.

Apologies ahead of time if I'm not understanding but as a complete novice  : Tree Fellers post was one of the thousands of questions I have...  If I understand correctly your stock boards are full size, rough sawn green and ignore shrinkage due to drying... but customers may prefer either full size or nominal on say 2 x 4's or 2 x 6's? 

Al

[red oaks lumber]

i saw full size then after drying i plane to finish size.

[mad murdock]

I have been doing a lot of construction projects around the place, and I have been cutting 2x4 about 1/8 to 1/4" under true dimension.  I have been able to get a little more lumber out of each log that way for my needs, it has worked out well.  I haven't milled any to sell. Like others have said, whatever the customer wants for their needs, is how I would approach it as well.

[nas]

I always ask my customers.  If I am sawing lumber store dimensions I always saw it very close to 1 1/2"x3 1/2" etc.  I find it doesn't shrink any worse than the lumber store junk does.

Nick

[two tired]

2x6 2x8 1x6, to 1x12s dont hang around verry long, I also cut 1 5/8 x 5 5/8 or factory cut. most customers request full 2xs or factory [storebought].

[Tree Feller]

Thanks again to everyone who has replied. You folks are the best.

The lumber will come from my own trees for my own use but it's good to know that everything from nominal to full size gets requested. I think I'll stick with the full-sized 2" stuff. That gives me a little more room when butting roof sheathing or horizontal siding. I've been known to scab on an exta 2x when I've gotten off a wee bit on my measurements.   :D

[captain_crunch]

Out west cutting dimentional lumber for me is waste of time where I saw my trees to produce lumber. 4x6.6x6 and other beams works fer me 1x6 thru 1x12 seems to be what people want rough sawn lumber fer. 2x4x8 sells fer .99 to 1.05 why bother