more power how to cut faster?

[coastlogger]

Im getting closer to repowering my bandmill with something around 30 hp. Currently I have 13.I run 19 inch bandwheels, 1.25 042 WM 10* blades currently.My question is with more power what do I have to change to get cutting faster. Currently I seem to have power enough to go fast enough to start getting wavey cuts(usually right on borderline of motor starting to bog down but not quite)I back off a bit and get straight boards. So if Ive got more power I still could go faster without compromising quality it would seem to me,unless I change something else.I notice lots of tak about 7* bands even 4* is this what I need to go to or am I missing something here. Cutting Doug Fir lots, and wide cuts are the biggest challenge to get any speed on with present setup.

[coastlogger]

Reread my last post it should have said "COULDNT go faster" (not "could").

[Brucer]

I use 10 degree 0.045 blades in Douglas-Fir. I've used both 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 with good results.

Assuming the blade guide rollers are properly aligned -- up/down and left/right -- the most likely cause of wavy cuts is the blade slowing down as you load up the motor. Bigger motor means you can push it harder before it starts to slow down.

[customsawyer]

You might want to go to a thicker blade if you have more power. I don't know what thickness you are using right now but the thicker body will have a little more forgiveness.

[ladylake]

 
I'm running a 29hp diesel with a 1-1/4  x  .42 blade both 10* and 4*, use the 10* for easy wood the 4* for tough or easy wood. The 4* takes a little more power but cuts straight untill I work the engine down .  With the old Kohler 27 hp it was a lot easyier to work the engine down causing waves with no where near the cutting speed in wide white oak and ash as the diesel does. Run a sharp blade with the proper set, 1/4" downpressure , giude wheels keeping the blade level with the deck, flange or bearing 3/16 behind the blade, keep the RPM up and you should cut straight lumber.  Steve

[sgschwend]

Sharp saws, avoid cutting through the bark by rotation.   I found I needed to limit my saw bf time, but also replace the saw early was the best way to control the cut. 

As to cutting through that heavy DF bark:  I have had cases where my new saw was dull after 4 bark cutting passes.  Assuming the saw was still sharp I kept sawing, and found that my diesel engine could get the job done.  Those saws would break.  I changed the direction of the log ration so I only cut through the bark once per log and my saws stayed sharp; my last resort was to add a bark cutter but found what I had worked without.

In my opinion DF is the most difficult to cut because the logs are normally large the bark is thick, the grain is very strong and will pull the saw around, the chips don't come off like when cutting hardwood, and the pitch is like glue.

[hackberry jake]

I would check into your pulley sizes as well. Some smaller hp mills come with ratios that run the band slower than average. You could speed it up and get more feed speed. check your set as well, set is your friend if you have plenty of hp.

[Ga Mtn Man]

  I changed the direction of the log ration so I only cut through the bark once per log and my saws stayed sharp; my last resort was to add a bark cutter but found what I had worked without.

How did you do this?  You either have to place the the first cut against the back stops or on the bunks.  Either case you're cutting through bark with the second and third cut (unless you have a clean-side cut mill)

[Chuck White]

If I remember correctly, Steve had a post on here a while back explaining how he only makes one cut through the bark.

After making the opening cut, Steve positions the cut edge against the clamp, therefore each successive cut will enter the cant on a clean surface.

In my opinion, it's a little more bother, but it could very well be worth the extra effort when you're considering the extended blade life!

[laffs]

that would leave you with thick slabs and missed footage by not sawing into the bark. my timberharvester is set up to saw like that, the stops on the right and dogs on the left.If you saw below the bark you may lose 1 or 2 flitches on logs over 6"

Anyhow if your looking for more rpm you could do like jake said and go up a size on the motor shive or down a size on the drive wheel or both if the new engine doesnt do it for you

[coastlogger]

My band settings are pretty well as stated.Just rechecked bandspeed,theoretical. (remarkably easy to do when you think about it. Rotated engine one full rev,measured band travel,multiply by 3600 rpm's.)
Anyhow its 5100 fpm at 3600 rpms. Ive jazzed my revs up to around 3800 no load so Im pretty sure its still doing 3600 in a cut(intend to get a bicycle speedo to prove this).Does this 5100 sound good? I know Ive read 5000 many times,then again Timberwqolf say I think 6200 in their literature.
Recently bought a liittle bullet level (6 inch) at hardware store.$2.00 I think.It has a magnetic strip on bottom. Works a treat for setting on band to get guide rollers level.Cant see how a specialized tool could do any better really.

[redbeard]

coastlogger I see that you are located on west side of Vancouver island could it be you are sawing some firs that grew up with the high winds, We have those on Whidbey island on the west side (call them wind trim) The rings are oblong or extremly favored to one side  and the grain actually spirals up the tree. If so they are tough on band mills, circle saws can burn threw them pretty good but lots of blade pinching. I remember when I got a load from a customer that I have sawn several jobs with before and he was happy but the load from the west side of island did not go well I spent  a small fortune on trying to find a blade that would cut it. I stay away from logs that are in the high wind area. 1/2 mile inLand or less logs are fine.

[coastlogger]

These are pretty good logs. A bit of pitch but I use diesel/lube and keep it under control.i guess what happens is in a wide cut say 16 inches or more, the blade doesnt really seem to grab the wood. I feed real slow and it cuts straight. If I speed up feed a tiny bit I of course hear the engine load up but it is still on governed revs Im pretty sure, blade starts to wander  usually goes downward first. Seems to me I should be having to hold saw back to prevent bogging, doesnt seem to work that way. Cedar and Hem saw more like I think they should.I keep my blades real sharp, lots of set like 28 to 30 thou. I think maybe I should be trying a different hook angle(less?)

[redbeard]

Yes you may have to slow down a bit, I cant cut wide doug fir fast like I can alder,cedar and whitewood. I have a 30hp gas.

[bandmiller2]

Coasty,you built your own bandmill didn't you??I would readjust and go to  1 1/2  bands more backbone and they can handle more power.I've run 1 1/2 on 19" wheels for years not a problem,too much tension and running dull is what kills bands. Frank C.

[coastlogger]

Frank C Im not that smart I modified an existing mill. What speed are your bands running?Im at 17 inches per engine rev which calcs out to 5100 fpm at 3600 rpm.
Redbeard what bands do you run?
Ladylake Steve can I take a 10*042 and make it into a 4* I wonder?From what ive read I may need to have the higher horsepower to make this work but wouldnt mind trying.

[ladylake]

  If you end up with 30hp it will run a 4* fine. I buy my bands at 10* and then sharpen them to 4*, it took some adjusting on my sharpener to make it follow the 10* gullet good.   Steve

[bandmiller2]

Coasty,I'll have to figure it out,I run with a three phase motor so my speed is consistant.Before I ran the mill with a two cyl. Wisconsin engine from an old baler.After the conversion I found I was running the band too fast with the gas engine.I would imagine its the same principal as a circular mill where you should take so much of a cut with each tooth.Each time a tooth takes a cut it dulls a little if it takes more wood with it it will cut more board feet before it dulls.If I had to make a choice I'd rather run the band on the slow side with ample power I think your bands will last longer. Frank C.