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another SNAG!

Started by lyle niemi, June 07, 2012, 12:54:47 PM

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lyle niemi

Well first of all I would like to thank you guys on the help with the belt issue.
I have found a bigger blade for the mill, it is a used blade but it was hammered and not used, I paid 450 for it and Im hopin thats not a bad price for it. So anyways I cleaned it all up and went to install it on the mill and noticed the dowel wont line up with the new blade. I looked at the old blade and seen that the holes were tammered with to make it fit the mill. Im not sure if I should do the same thing or not?? Im thinking the best thing would be is to change the collars???? Any help would be great!!
PS I havnt lost me marbles yet but getting very close!!! lol

  

 

Jim_Rogers

Do you have a saw doctor you could discuss that problem with. He may be able to give you some advice on doing that.

Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

lyle niemi

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on June 07, 2012, 01:01:06 PM
Do you have a saw doctor you could discuss that problem with. He may be able to give you some advice on doing that.
I had left a message for him to call, Im hopin he gets ack to me soon.

Sprucegum

The arbor looks like a good fit so I would be tempted to trim down the dowels to fit the saw.

b dukes

You could  drill new holes 90 degrees from them in the correct place? I have a blade with two sets of dowels. But if you drill in the blade would the blade have to be re- hammered?

Cutting Edge

Quote from: b dukes on June 07, 2012, 03:28:11 PM
You could  drill new holes 180 90 degrees from them in the correct place? I have a blade with two sets of dowels. But if you drill in the blade would the blade have to be re- hammered?

Took the words right outta my mouth post   :D
"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


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steamsawyer

I know what you are thinking but don't you mean 90 degrees?...  ;D

There is nothing wrong with taking a die grinder or a possum tail file and making it like your other blade. That's what I have done before. The iner and outer edges of the dowel holes don't hold anything anyway, only the sides. Just be carefull to make them longer and not wider. There is nothing wrong with relocating the holes either, but you will have to be very acurate with the layout.

Alan
J. A. Vance circular sawmill, 52" blade, powered by a 70 HP 9 1/2 x 10 James Leffel portable steam engine.

Inside this tired old mans body is just a little boy that wants to go out and play.

Great minds think alike.....  Does your butt itch too?

Alan Rudd
Steam Punk Extraordinaire.

lyle niemi

Quote from: steamsawyer on June 07, 2012, 03:52:46 PM
I know what you are thinking but don't you mean 90 degrees?...  ;D

There is nothing wrong with taking a die grinder or a possum tail file and making it like your other blade. That's what I have done before. The iner and outer edges of the dowel holes don't hold anything anyway, only the sides. Just be carefull to make them longer and not wider. There is nothing wrong with relocating the holes either, but you will have to be very acurate with the layout.

Alan
Im trying to avoid getting the blade rehammered, its not the cost but the distance I would have to travel. If I use a die grinder would it create enough heat to effect the blade?

MotorSeven

Since it won't fit in a drill press, I think I'd go at it with a Dremel and small coarse cylinder stones. It might take a while but it would force you to go slow and careful.  You could keep the heat down by alternating from hole to hole.
WoodMizer LT15 27' bed

Al_Smith

I seriously doubt that with a massize piece of steel the size of that blade you would warp it .If you're concerned use a chainsaw file to elongate the holes a tad bit .

I have no idea how hard the blade is but one would think a file hard enough to cut a chainsaw cutter would certainly cut a saw blade .

lyle niemi

Another question I should ask is why that collar does not fit the blade? there must be a proper collar a guy could get so you dont have to mess with the holes, Right???

Al_Smith

I'm not a circle mill guy but the few I've seen were just in essence like a large blade stabilizer used on a table saw .

steamsawyer

Lyle,
You are not going to heat or distort your blade at all. You could use a burr in a die grinder or Dremel tool, or just a round rat tale file. The blade plate is not hardened steel and a file should cut it just fine. Take one of the dowel pins to use for a gauge and hand fit it.

The dowels aren't there to key the blade to the shaft as much as they are there to key the collars together. They pin the loose collar to the fast collar more to keep the loose collar from spining and loostening or tightening the nut.

Alan



J. A. Vance circular sawmill, 52" blade, powered by a 70 HP 9 1/2 x 10 James Leffel portable steam engine.

Inside this tired old mans body is just a little boy that wants to go out and play.

Great minds think alike.....  Does your butt itch too?

Alan Rudd
Steam Punk Extraordinaire.

Dave VH

if you keep it wet when you grind it, it shouldn't get too hot
I cut it twice and it's still too short

bandmiller2

You shouldn't upset the saws tension,but I would be more inclined to modify the pins as they are cheap and easy to replace.Remember Belsaws don't even use pins in there collars.As alan said they keep the nut from tightening and springing the collars if the saw hung. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Migal

I would drill two more holes 90 degrees that would fit my arbor and never look back. GL with what ever you decide.
Stihl learning and picked up my Log Master LM2 Cat 34hp 02 21 12! 230MF+ the toys that go with it! MS361 MS271 Stihl PB500 Echo 48" LogRite 16ft Bass Tracker Pro' Abua Garcia 5600 bait caster, Wood working equipment' Lake Lot never enough time! oh don't forget the fridge with ale! Loving Wife Rebeca

lyle niemi

This blade I got turned out to be for a left handed mill, DANG!! Saw doctor says he can hammer it the other way, Im hopin it will work.
The collars on the mill look like they are both flat on the mating surfaces. I looked in the sawmill book and it says there should be a taper to the collars. The collars look like they were made flat with no taper to them. Do I have the right collars???
I have been trying to find some one around here who knows about these old mills to come and give be a hand to get it cutting straight, Im having no luck. I really hate to say this but Im almost ready to give up and carry on with something eles now.

Jim_Rogers

This saw doctor you are talking to should be able to give you some advice on your collars.
Have you asked him about them?
From all the stuff I've read over the years, the more information you give him the better job he can do for you.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

lyle niemi

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on June 09, 2012, 10:47:06 AM
This saw doctor you are talking to should be able to give you some advice on your collars.
Have you asked him about them?
From all the stuff I've read over the years, the more information you give him the better job he can do for you.

Jim Rogers
gonna go see him with my blades and collars monday mornin.

TimGA

Lyle.  Been watching all your hard work and great progress. Just a word of encouragement to keep going. I find the final steps sometimes to be the hardest. Bought a new tk2000 a year ago, thought it would be a piece of cake HA!. For the most part the mill was fine, I just needed to know what different sounds meant, to fast to slow, sharp blade dull blade, blade will not cut with pitch on it. Don't Quit ! Just a few more hours and some tweaking and you will have the mill you have dreaming of. My father in law used to say, IT WILL LOOK BETTER AFTER A GOOD NIGHTS REST. A new morning a fresh start a new approach. He was a dairy farmer his whole life as you he knew what rough was.   Good Luck, Would love to see pictures of piles of wood.           Tim
TK2000, Kubota L3130GST, grapple, pallet forks, 2640 Massey w/loader (The Beast) Husky saws Logrites One man operation some portable most stationary.

lyle niemi

Quote from: TimGA on June 10, 2012, 10:26:42 AM
Lyle.  Been watching all your hard work and great progress. Just a word of encouragement to keep going. I find the final steps sometimes to be the hardest. Bought a new tk2000 a year ago, thought it would be a piece of cake HA!. For the most part the mill was fine, I just needed to know what different sounds meant, to fast to slow, sharp blade dull blade, blade will not cut with pitch on it. Don't Quit ! Just a few more hours and some tweaking and you will have the mill you have dreaming of. My father in law used to say, IT WILL LOOK BETTER AFTER A GOOD NIGHTS REST. A new morning a fresh start a new approach. He was a dairy farmer his whole life as you he knew what rough was.   Good Luck, Would love to see pictures of piles of wood.           Tim
Thanx for the good words of encouragement, I guess I was just having a bad day..lol I did find someone who said he worked on mills, he said he will come out today and have a look at things. He is a millright so Im hoping he can see something that I cant.
The weather up here has been so dang wet its hard to get much done outside. There is one good thing about having all these problems, if I get them all sorted out I will know how to correct things on my own and maybe help another person who is going through the same kinda of stuff.
I do not want to sell one piece of lumber unless it is cut properly, ya know its a small town and word travels fast..lol

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