Removable axle and tongue

[Timberline]

I am trying to attach a 3500 lb axle to my mill trailer.  I will be using 2" tube that will be welded to the leaf spring the I have to attach that to the trailer rail.  Can this be bolted or do I have to weld it?  I thought making it removable would be a nice feature.  The same for the tongue.  It will be a 2x2" tube axle perpendicular from the frame attaching underneath the first and second bunk.  Can I bolt this or do I need to weld it?  If so, how many bolts and how big would you think I'd need?  There's just not a lot of room when the tube is only 2".

[beenthere]

Not sure from the description how you have this planned out. Maybe others will interpret better and have some answers for you.
Sounds like a good project tho.  ;)

[WH_Conley]

Might not be a good idea to weld to the spring itself, probably will effect the temper and could cause the spring to break.

[barbender]

Might not be a good idea to weld to the spring itself, probably will effect the temper and could cause the spring to break.

X2, you can't weld to the spring, it will weaken it and the flexing of the spring will crack the welds. Use u-bolts and nacker plates that are made for it. My tongue on my WM is bolted on, and yes I remove it when sawing because I get sick of hitting my shins on it : BTW, if you to a trailer parts supply, they should have everything you need to get your axle spring and hangers mounted right.

[bandmiller2]

Bolt everything,most mills don't move that much,I'd make it kinda like a boat trailer where you pull the mill on.The trailer and tongue can be separate.Angle iron on each side will guide the mill on. Frank C.

[fishpharmer]

Timberline, another idea is to look at the EZ Boardwalk system, they have a removeable axle.

[Timberline]

Thanks for all the thoughts.  I guess I should have been more specific when I was describing it.  I do have a hanger kit, the part I would weld would be the bracket (not sure exactly what its called) that attaches to the spring with a bolt.  Heres the kit I have: http://www.trailerrvparts.com/2000lb-3500lb-single-axle-hanger-kit-_p_225.html

I was thinking about welding those brackets to 2" tube, then weld that piece of tube to another 2" tube to give me enough height so I can clear the top of the tire when loading a log.  Then I thought I could bolt that assembly on to the frame by tapping holes in the frame. 



What do you all think of this plan?  Would two bolts be enough and how big should they be.  The larger the better I am sure but drilling and tapping into 1/4" steel upside down wouldn't be easy.

[beenthere]

Thanks for the drawing.
Certainly can try that, but I'd be suspect of tapping 1/4" steel for enough threads to hold. I don't see where you say what size bolt you plan to use in that tapped hole.
Guess if it doesn't work, you can go to plan B and weld it.

But for drilling/tapping originally, just turn the rails upside down and do it from the top.   ;)

I think I'd be looking at a way to drop through-bolts down through the rails and through the 2" tube. Appears the heads wouldn't be in the way on the rail.

[Timberline]

I agree, the lack of thickness to tap into was my biggest fear as well.  The problem with going through is I will have angle on the top of the rails for the saw to ride on.  Also I wish I could just turn it over to drill/tap but now that I have both rails welded together it weighs about 800 ibs  :'(  One thought is I could weld the top tube to the bottom of the rail and bolt the 2" tubes together instead.  That way I could reach in there to back it with a nut.


 

[thecfarm]

I have no idea how high your sawmill would have to be to clear the tire. I myself would not want it too high. Harder to turn the logs if too high.

[mrcaptainbob]

The section that's welded to the sawmill frame, the one that the bolts enter....before attaching to the sawmill frame, through drill and weld in a threaded coupler or sleeve. Make sure to use never seize on those bolts if you plan on leaving them in for a long period.Also, I'd through drill the bolt heads and use some stainless wire to keep them from turning out from any vibrations. The sleeves offer lots of thread to provide plenty of strength.

[rmack]

this might work for you. basically, two short pieces of angle iron above each end of the spring, flat bar is welded to 2" hss, you could gusset the flat bar and axle tube as well.



 

no charge for the fancy drawing.  ;)

[Timberline]

Thanks for the drawing  ;D  I wonder how that idea would work for a removable tongue?  When I saw that picture I pictured it as looking over the top of the tongue.

[Ljohnsaw]

For the removable tongue, weld on angle iron similar to the axle bracket below by "rmack" and pass a hitch pin in both the fore and aft bunk locations.  It might rattle a little but real easy to remove when you need to - like a receiver hitch.  You could do the same (pins) on the axle with a single bolt to snug things up to reduce the rattle.