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prentice 110

Started by ga jones, November 26, 2012, 08:13:19 PM

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ga jones

im puting a 110 loader on a single axle truck to sort, stack and load trailers with. The question is will I need a cooler? or mabe a large aluminum fuel tank for hydraulic oil. How hot do they run?
380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

snowstorm

truck mount loaders were ment to load wood for an hour or so then go down the road. yes if you are going to use it for hours at a time an oil cooler would help

NWP

Mine gets pretty warm loading the truck and trailer.  I think the tank is too small.  It may be a 25-30 gallon tank.  It would definitely need a cooler IMO.
1999 Blockbuster 2222, 1997 Duratech HD10, 2021 Kubota SVL97-2, 2011 Case SV250, 2000 Case 1845C, 2004 Case 621D, John Deere 540A, 2011 Freightliner with Prentice 120C, 2012 Chevrolet, 1997 GMC bucket truck, several trailers, and Stihl saws.

treefarmer87

my 110 didnt have one, but it would be a plus if you did :)
1994 Ford L9000
2004 Tigercat 718
1998 Barko 225
1999 John Deere 748G
FEC 1550 slasher
CTR 314 Delimber
Sthil 461
Sthil 250

mad murdock

General rule of thumb for hydraulic systems is take the gallon per minute capacity of the pump you will power the system with, multiply that times 2 1/2, the result is the benchmark capacity of the hydraulic reservoir. Operating conditions and system design will determine if you need a cooler or not, if you will have oil quantity capacity based on the rule, you usually will not need a cooler.  If you have to reduce reservoir capacity due to physical limitations, are planning on continuous duty near capacity outputs, or working system pressures will be set high(in excess of 2,000 psi), I would incorporate a cooler, or at least design a large filter so the oil has opportunities to exchange heat by having more surface area exposure. By using large pressure and supply mains you will reduce the potential of heat build up, if you use a premium anti-foaming hydraulic oil such as Shell Tellus 68 or equivalent, you can further reduce heat and associated problems inherent with friction. We owned a log truck with a 110G loader, it had no cooler, but we had a 30 or 40 gallon res, we did a lot of sorting with the truck, and never had a problem wih heat. A lot depends on how it is use as well, i.e. lifting grabs repeatedly at max capacity would probably require a cooler be designed in the system,IMO. Used reasonably, a 110 can work in long sessions without worrying about heat, if the aforementioned factors are take. Into consideration when putting the system together at the onset. Should be a nice setup for you.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

ga jones

thanks for the input.I will mount it and try it without and see.I will make provisions for the cooler mount incase.
380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

bushmechanic

Hey ga jones just a little note to keep in mind,you said you were going to use a aluminum fuel tank.Be careful how you plumb your inlet and outlet lines because it can cause you grief down the road.I recently had a tractor trailer with a Prentice 90 on it and it wouldn't lift at all and everything was slowed down on it.I diagnosed it to be the pump and the owner said that it was a new pump installed this spring before he started hauling.What happened was that he put together this "new" truck and used a fuel tank for the hydraulics piped it poorly and when the oil returned to the tank it got aireated then when the pump picked up the oil again the oil after time damaged the pump beyond repair.My point is that most manufactured hydraulic reservoirs have baffles in them to prevent this.Just a little fyi.

mad murdock

Quote from: bushmechanic on December 02, 2012, 09:00:45 AM
Hey ga jones just a little note to keep in mind,you said you were going to use a aluminum fuel tank.Be careful how you plumb your inlet and outlet lines because it can cause you grief down the road.I recently had a tractor trailer with a Prentice 90 on it and it wouldn't lift at all and everything was slowed down on it.I diagnosed it to be the pump and the owner said that it was a new pump installed this spring before he started hauling.What happened was that he put together this "new" truck and used a fuel tank for the hydraulics piped it poorly and when the oil returned to the tank it got aireated then when the pump picked up the oil again the oil after time damaged the pump beyond repair.My point is that most manufactured hydraulic reservoirs have baffles in them to prevent this.Just a little fyi.
Very good point bushmechanic! Your admonition reminded me of another rule for reservoirs, put the pump intake line low in the tank, in addition to baffling, if you place the return so that it enters just below the oil level line, you reduce the chance of aeration occurring in the reservoir. Aeration will cause excessive pump cavitation and can easily ruin the pump.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

ga jones

Picked up the loader today. Turns out its a 120. the hydraulic tank is with it still full.The owner said it would get hot on hot summer days loading trailers and stacking but never slowed or blew lines. Will it getting hot damage anything?  Its in real nice shape continuos rotation rotobec grapple. 4 stick. New pump.
380c timberjack c4 treefarmer international trucks jonsered saws. Sugi hara bars d31 komatsu 350 tj grapple

mad murdock

It depends on how hot is "hot", if the oil smells burnt after getting hot, it can damage pump seals, valve seals, and anything in the system that can be affected adversely by high temperature.  If the oil doesn't have a distinct burnt smell, then it isn't really getting hot enough to cause damage.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

redprospector

Put an oil temperature gauge in line somewhere you can see it. Unless you're running some high dollar, souped up hyraulic oil it need to stay around 180 degree. I've got a couple of machines that I have to use an oil that cost almost $20 bucks a gallon, but those machines will run 210 - 220 for hours at a time.
The hotter it runs the more often you need to change the fluid.

Andy
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

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