WM Two-plane clamp height

[WoodenHead]

On week-ends I have some time to dream  ;D  So, I was thinking about adding a two-plane clamp to my manual mill (besides the Pineywoods hydraulic turner that I already have).  For those of you who have a two plane clamp on your WM, what is the maximum height above the deck the clamp will travel?  How far below the deck will it go down?   

[bandmiller2]

Woody,I have a homebuilt and not a woodmizer but use a two plain to boath clamp and turn.I would say down, just below the bunks,up around 11"-12" then you can easily clamp large rounds or drop to last board. Frank C.

[shelbycharger400]

I have a homebuilt bar slabber. 
My clamps front and back I have 2 pairs.    the positive ones are at 5 in at highest, the ones with the worm screws go up to 8 inch.   they are on the lowest bunks
The other floating bunks are 1 1/2 in higher or so, so minus the measurement.
my clamps are  on 1 7/8 tube and 2x4 bunks will come out and can move them around.
When I have time Im going to replace the other short ones to longer ones.
They work well as is, largest log I have ran was a 20 in dia and I never fliped it until it was down to 6 in thick and it never moved.
Now with all that said, I usually can hold plus or minus an 1/8 inch in 8 feet of travel.
If the mill is setup real flat and level I have held 1/16th.   

Now on most stuff I run in that 10-12 in diameter their isn't enough weight to hold it down and have to carefully clamp it tight.  Crooked/ bowed logs I have to lay em so their like a bananna on its side or otherwise they move.  With that said the closest you can run your clamps to the true center of the log the better you are off. Also noted is if one side clamps are higher than the other, they will pull the log up off the bunks, even if you have a flat edge already on the bunks. Its only slight to 1/8 to 1/4 in. Just to keep it in mind. The larger the log it dosn't do it as much or at all.

[Magicman]

If I remember I will measure mine tomorrow.  I just figured that surely someone would have measured by now.    ???

[POSTON WIDEHEAD]

 smiley_ignore

[Brucer]

At its lowest position the clamp is supposed to be 5/16" below the top of the bed rails. Mine rises to 10" above the bed at it's highest position.

With the blade height set at 11"" my blade will just clear the vertical side stops. The debarker and outboard guide arm will just clear the top of the clamp.

[WoodenHead]

Thanks for the measurements!

Am I correct in saying that the stroke of the cylinder should be about 10" if I follow the WM design?

In terms of using the clamp for the last board (1" off the deck), how do you know if you are not just a bit too high with the clamp?  With the manual clamp it has a series of fixed positions and I can be rest assured that it is low enough on my last pass.  (But that still didn't stop me from sawing into it on occasion at other heights  )

[bandmiller2]

Its easy to tell if your clamp is too high you hear a metalic zing.Seriously you have to get used to clamping no more than 1/2" up on the last board after a wile you can estimate it from where your standing.I think in the 12 years I've run my bandmill I may have clipped it once or twice,just had to reset and sharpen. Frank C.

[Brucer]

Am I correct in saying that the stroke of the cylinder should be about 10" if I follow the WM design?

Yes.

I just eyeball the height of the clamp. The thickness of the clamp head is just over an inch on my mill, so that gives me a quick reference as to how low the top has to be.

It's always best to check all your clearances before you start a cut. But if you goof, there's usually a workaround if you spot the problem with your eye and not the blade. I discovered that my cat's paw will hold a control valve in the down position. That lets me hammer down hydraulic stuff that is too high (clamps, toeboards, side stops) when the carriage is off the contact strip. Just sayin' :D.