iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

new circle saw blade

Started by Charles135, December 12, 2012, 12:16:33 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Charles135

I went to look at a spare circle saw blade today.  It looked good but....the saw is a 9 gauge saw and has 8 gauge shanks and bits.  Will this work or will I have to replace the shanks and bits?  The shanks and bits look like new. 
Charlie
Charlie
Foley Belsaw M-14, JD MT, Massey Harris 44, F-30 Farmall, A JD, 3203 JD, 5300 JD, JD 4039 Power Unit
Serving the Thin Blue Line Since 1998

sealark37

I have learned to never pass up a circle mill saw.  Even the ones that have been in a fire can be used for replacement shoulders for a damaged saw.  Your main competition for the older saws will be the decorators who use them for signs and wall hangers, so don't pay too much.  If the corrosion is not too bad, and some of the shanks and bits are present, make an offer.  If the undersize shanks are a problem, your saw guy can advise you on a suitable course of action.  Be sure to ask if the seller has any other "sawmill junk".   Regards, Clark

Charles135

Sealark,
I am not going to pass the blade up if I can work out a price.  I would be willing to offer more if I can use a 9 guage saw with 8 guage shanks and bits versus have to buy all new shanks at $6 each times 56 sockets.  Them darn art people will flat bogger up a blade.
Charlie
Foley Belsaw M-14, JD MT, Massey Harris 44, F-30 Farmall, A JD, 3203 JD, 5300 JD, JD 4039 Power Unit
Serving the Thin Blue Line Since 1998

ALWOL

   Some of my customers have used shanks and bits of a different gauge than the saw, with no trouble. If this saw has 56 sockets, it must be a fairly large one, or have very small sockets. If you can buy it worth the money, at least you would have more shanks and bits for your other saw, provided they are the same style.

     Alan
There's a big difference between staying busy and making money.

Ron Wenrich

You mean boogered up like this?


 
or this


 

An 8/9 gauge saw will be stiffer than a 7/8.  That's what I was using.  You just have to make sure the arbor size is the same and that your mill will be able to handle the saw at the board splitter and saw guides.  You also should get it hammered for the speed of your mill.  If its already hammered for that speed, then you should be OK.  You may have to adjust the lead when changing saws.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

Charles135

Ron,
Both of those are beautiful, most of the ones I see around here with art on them are no where close to those.  I really like the cnc'd one!
The arbor size is right anad the board splitter is adjustable so I will have room.  I just making sure that the one full size wider shanks and bits will not mess up on the thinner guage blade.  I will have to have it hammered just to be on the safe side.   
Charlie
Charlie
Foley Belsaw M-14, JD MT, Massey Harris 44, F-30 Farmall, A JD, 3203 JD, 5300 JD, JD 4039 Power Unit
Serving the Thin Blue Line Since 1998

Ron Wenrich

I misspoke on the thickness being heavier on the 8/9 gauge.  Actually its a little thinner, by .015".  It still will work just as well.
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

bandmiller2

I have a hard time remembering saw gauges work backwards in outher words a 9 gauge is thinner than an 8.Most of the saws I've seen such as 8/9 have the saw center thicker say 8 gauge tapering down to 9 by the rim giving you a slight taper,on one side, flat side twords the cant. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Thank You Sponsors!