TIMBERJACK 560D help (minor problem)

[CCC4]

WOW! What a day! Sometimes you are better off to just stay at the house! Rain,sleet then finally snow  8)

So, I was jacking up the cab to fix a heater hose and blew a hydraulic line on the jack. Replaced the line, filled cylinder, and jacked the cab up. After my repairs I turn the valve and started letting the cab back down, it goes down a foot and stops!! Seems like it had air in the line or something. I tried taking it back up...nothing! I cracked the lines on the jack cylinder and the main "pump"...nothing, no air, no drop of the cab, nothing. Checked the fill cap which has an air bleeder, everything is seemingly fine, spring is free. Anybody have any ideas??

[snowstorm]

on my valmet you have to pump it up and down. turn the valve and pump to go down. dont know about yours

[CCC4]

Same here, I'm sure it's standard procedure. My problem is an air bubble I do believe. Maybe as it sits overnight the air will work itself up the line and allow the cab to come on down. Thanks!

Surely someone on here has replaced one of the hydraulic jack lines and maybe run into similar problems.  :-\

[CCC4]

Well, now I don't feel so bad.  ;)

[kiko]

Does the jack handle get tight or does it feel like nothing is there? If it feels like nothing  there then the jack is probally out of oil. they are difficult to fill. There is a small plug next to the crank handle where you put the oil in. I find it easiest to use an oil squirt can to fill jack, if you try to pour it in you have to do it real slow or else the oil you are trying to put in will get air locked and not flow into the resovoir. The jack resovoir is small compaired to the cly. and may take several fill ups to make it all the way down or back up next time. There is also a lock valve in the cly that could be stck, but that would make the jack handle stiff.

[CCC4]

Yes Sir, the handle gets stiff. Where is the lock valve? +1 on the fluid being slow to add! Hey are you using regular hydraulic fluid? Boss told me to put that in yesterday. I got to thinking last night that it is too thick and not going through the valving right. So, where is that lock valve again? ...gotta be the problem! Thanks much!

[kiko]

With the handle getting stiff two possible issues. Most likely issues with the pump. As you rotate the pump control lever from up to down it lines up the ness ports to go up or down. There are not any seal that seperate the ports and the tight tolerance between the lever shaft and the drill in the aluminum housing that it slides into, If ther is any scaring in this bore it will let the fluid bypass and pressurise both sides of the cly. To diagnose whether if is the pump or lock valve, remove one of the hoses on the pump that go to the cly. You would want the hose that would make the cab raise but i can not tell you which one that is, so it is the return hose when cab is being lowered. you will loose some oil in this process. Now activate the cab jack down and if it starts to move with this hose off then you can be certain the problem is in the pump. You can use the cab jack like this but you will have to take the other hose off to raise it and continue to add oil the whole time. And from personal experience the pump is not repairable. Now if this does not make the cab move the problem is in the lock valve which is located at the base of the cly and threaded in to the cly. If you remove this make sure the cab is over center and resting on the cable as it could come crashing down on you will your head is down in the whole trying to get to the lock valve out. Start with the cab jack that is where I find the cause of this exact same problem over and over. Lock valve issue have not shown to be nearly as common. This may be why the hose blew with the cly lock up there was nowhere for the oil to go so it made its own relief. Hope this helps and happy new year.

[CCC4]

Much much appreciated!! I bet I can sort it out pretty quick now that I know what to check. Thanks again!  :new_year: