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Building for sawmill?

Started by WoodChucker, June 16, 2002, 03:39:21 PM

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HORSELOGGER

Jim,     5 5/8 or 7 1/2 The tube steel sleeve walls are 3/16 thick on the 6 " system and 1/4" on the 8
Heritage Horselogging & Lumber Co.
"Surgical removal of standing timber, Leaving a Heritage of timber for tommorow. "

woodman

  Thank you Horselogger I'll hafto cut down my full size stock if i want to use them will make grate small barn.
Jim Cripanuk

Don P

These are pics of Horseloggers "Socket System" barn.
4 Bent Frames are up of the 6 we had total. The pref-fab parts are the steel ones. The tilting post bases, the post to rafter connection and the rafter to rafter peak connector. The connectors are to my mind too short The wood only projects inside the rafter tubes about 10.5 inches. If doing that again I think I would weld on side straps to make that a longer connection. The haunches (wooden braces across the post /rafter connection) and collar tie (across the rafter to rafter connection) do help reinforce this.



This is the barn with bent frames up and horizontal girts and purlins across them


The roof metal screwed down. Attached diagonally to the posts and girts are knee braces (Y braces on posts) and wind braces (diagonals from floor to corner posts). Siding will be board and batten



And I quote Horselogger. "Sure, anybody can change a modem"  :D


DanG

Hey, that's a great looking building, guys.  8) 8)
I'm envious!
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Bibbyman

Don P,  

I may have missed it some place in the posting but did you use the 8x8 brackets or the 6x6?  

A couple of months ago I talked with the Socket System people and the 8x8 brackets were going to turn out less expensive than the 6x6 because we could use one less set.  Longer span would mean larger and longer purlins but that would be no big deal as I'd saw my own lumber.  Besides,  the 8x8 set would allow bigger openings on the sides.

I was all but ready to pick up the phone and get a kit on order when we got distracted by other things.  Still a project on the back burner.

One other thought to bounce off those interested:  I was thinking of only putting a flat on one side of the log and then 8x8ing the ends that fit in the sockets - thus leaving the beams naturally round.  What do you think of that idea?
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

ARKANSAWYER

  How many days of construction?  It looks flat around there! where are the hills?  Nice job 8)
ARKANSAWYER
ARKANSAWYER

HORSELOGGER

Whadya mean flat!?!?  Why    the entry from the road to my property is at least a 10 foot drop maybe even 12!  Actually this property is in the northwest corner of Illinois and is very hilly.  DonP. said it reminded him of back home in Virginia somewhat. The barn took 2 weeks to raise the frame and put the roof on, with 2 men working on it ( me and DonP ) I am installing white pine board and batten siding alone now and the going is much slower, plus I have had to pull off and make a few bucks sawing and jockeying flooring lumber around. Busier than a one legged man in a butt kickin contest these days, but sure is gratifiying ;D Oh yeah, one last thing about flat land in Illinois. The well drillers just left the new property yesterday, .... 485 feet to water >:( at 11 dollars a foot! ouch)thats what I get for buying hill top property!
Heritage Horselogging & Lumber Co.
"Surgical removal of standing timber, Leaving a Heritage of timber for tommorow. "

Corley5

Nice building!!  Having a well drilled sucks.  I complained about mine 290' and $9 a foot.
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

junkyard

Last check wells were $21.00 a foot. In dirt with casing or in the granite same price. Was a drill rig in paper last week $3000 was tempting. Drilled wells around here go 100 feet. Most places can get water wth a backhoe at12 to 16 feet but banks sat must be drilled to finance.
                     Junkyard
If it's free, It's for me. If for pay, leave it lay.

wiam

Horselogger
  How do you feel about socket systems now?  Would you do it again?  I'm thinkin about it. :P

William

cpm

another simple solution to no water off the front of the building is gutters! ;D ;D   An often over looked solution to keeping an area dry(er). Just don't forget they are there when the loader is up ::)

Swing_blade_Andy

Hi Gentlemen

Just wondering why the building of that height is needed for a saw shed? Seems extravagant.

Andrew

smwwoody

Full time Mill Manager
Cleereman head rig
Cooper Scragg
McDonugh gang saw
McDonugh edger
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TS end trim
Pendu slab recovery system
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Driller

Corley5,
Well drilling sure can suck sometimes especially when you don't find water. I do that every once in awhile. Being a driller, it makes you feel pretty bad but there is nothing you can do about it. When you are looking for something you can't see sometimes it's pretty hard.Kinda like sawing into a tree and hitting a nail.
Junkyard- Don't buy a drilling rig.

Driller

jdunmyer

I have a bunch of pictures of my sawmill at http://www.oldengine.org/members/jdunmyer

The building is 20' X 60', with about 7' clearance at the openings on the south side. One is about 25' wide, the other about 20'; the wider uses a large channel iron (10" or 12", I forget) for support, the other has a 6" I beam. The roof uses trusses that I picked up cheap, with a 5/12 pitch. No snow stays on the aluminum roof sheeting. The frame is basically pole-barn style, using 6 X 6s that sit on piers poured in stacked 5-gallon buckets. The poles were sawed on the mill and do not touch the ground. Poles are on 10' centers, trusses on 5' centers. Siding is all 1X, both 6" and 10", with batten boards.

There's a bottom girt that holds the siding, with a second 2X8 girt scabbed to it, slightly buried in the ground. I "treated" both bottom girts with used motor oil (soaked for at least several hours), but the buired one is getting rotten after 25+ years.

It was cheap to build at the time and has held up pretty well. It also looks the part, IMHO.

We built some trusses years ago that worked out well and were easy to make. Used 2X4s (full dimension), made a drawing that "looked right", transferred it to the floor using a chalk line, then built the trusses right on the outline. Used the first one for a pattern, then built the rest on top of it. Reinforcing at the joints was pieces of 1/2" plywood, fastened with drywall-type nails (ring-shank). I'd use that system today if I were building that shed again.

Steve_M

Has anyone else looked at the Super Solar Cycle Kiln being used by Timbergreen Forestry in Spring Green, WI.  Looks like a person could have a saw shed and a solar kiln all in one shot.

Steve
2001 WM Super LT40 Electric and WM Twin Blade Edger, just a part timer custom sawing and cutting salvage logs.

Swing_blade_Andy

A solar kiln and saw shed in one shot. That sounds interesting although rather hot for sawing. Your working people might end up with a very low MC as well requiring a dash to the pub for several beers....

Can you post a link or some pic to get an idea how that arange it.

ANdrew

Steve_M

Andrew

Check this out.

www.timbergreenforestry.com

lots of info there but you should be able to find the Kiln.

Steve
2001 WM Super LT40 Electric and WM Twin Blade Edger, just a part timer custom sawing and cutting salvage logs.

Steve_M

you need to look in the site index under drying lumber I think

Steve
2001 WM Super LT40 Electric and WM Twin Blade Edger, just a part timer custom sawing and cutting salvage logs.

GF

I am planning on using steel trusses, I priced some the other day for a custom steel truss with a 20' span is $100, they are used on 10' centers.  I built some in the past with 4" 24' C purlin, had about $25 each in material and put them on 5' center on a 24' span worked fine, had 12" of snow on top and they handled it also.

dail_h

   I'm in the prosess of putting up sawmill shed,36x 60 from broiler house trusses. Trusses are 6ft at eaves,so I got some old crossties,buried them 3&half ft and cut them off at about 3ft. That's where the transit came out at,wanted 4ft but this is ok. saved the top cutoff for deadmen on outside of post. Trusses were $70 each,and ties were $5. There are somw just like them for sale on testerdays tractors for $75
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