Going small with Lucas

[Seaman]

I need to split a load of 2x8s ( reclaimed) for a customer with the Lucas. I am thinking of cutting a 90 deg shelf into a log, then pinning the 2x8 on edge to cut it vertically. Hope that makes sense. Any ideas?

wish I could draw on here , but don't have a clue.
Thanks. Frank

[fishpharmer]

I think I understand your goal.  Sounds like it will work.  You essentially want to split 2"x8"s into two-2"x4"s?  If you make the log shelf 12" wide, possibly you could fasten a 4"x4" down so there is a 4"x8" opening to hold two-2"x8"s.
That way you could split two at a time.  Fasten a wood board at the ends or at least end resisting vertical cut.

Clear as Mississippi mud?

[Ianab]

If you made a support with a couple of 4x2 standing vertical from each your normal log bunks, 2" apart. Put a stop at the front end to butt the board against, to stop the mill dragging the board back with the saw. Just make a cut though it the first time.

I would only cut one at a time so you don't have to reset the saw position at all. Get it set right, drop board into place, cut it, repeat.

Ian

[Gasawyer]

Sounds like a good idea. I think that I would only do 1 at a time to start with. Won't know till you try though. Good luck!

[terrifictimbersllc]

If you're sawing another log, you could also groove out a slot in the pith of a half-sawn log and tap the 2x into that, would be a pretty stable setup.

[dgdrls]

Seaman,

let us know how you proceed and add some pics,  you could
be showing me some future work.

DGDrls

[Seaman]

Thanks fellas,
Thanks, need to make them into 1x8s. I think the above ideas will work. I just HATE having to tell a customer I can't do what they want done.

Frank

[fishpharmer]

1"x8"s ? You need to find another friend with a bandsaw ;).   

[sigidi]

Frank, sorry mate, but you won't get 1x8's out, best you will get is 7/8x8 and then I'd suggest doing it horizontally. but all the methods rely on the 8x2's being "flat" to begin with - and to be honest they won't be :(

[Seaman]

Sidigi, I thought the same so ask a few more questions.
Found out last night the customer wants to use the boards for interior paneling. 2x8s come from a barn his Grandpa built, and he really doesn't care about thickness, long as thy are uniform. I'm thinking split and plane one side. probly end up with 5/8th or so.
Metal detector will get a good workout!

[sigidi]

Frank, I recently did somethign similar with a bunch of old railway sleepers 8x5's took two boards out of each and left a slither of waste at the end. So one board had one clean fresh sawn face and the old face, the other board had two fresh faces.

I levelled a 'deck' using the sawblade to make sure it was true with the horizontal on the mill, then placed (for want of a better word) a fence along the left side and far end of where I placed the sleepers (making an 'L' shape) this held the sleepers inplace and I slid the mill up 40mm.(you may want to go something like 7/8) From there I left the mill at this height and just did all the sleepers horizontally. the bonus of this was I could adjust the bites I did as the blade got more blunt. To begin with I could do say a 4" pass and get through nicely, then once I was gettign down to a 2" pass (this timber was old as the hills and full of grit/sand/rust) then I would sharpen. Only thing I did was wind the head horizontal all day, and did small bites to get through quick.

[Seaman]

I think I will set up to try both ways.
I just put Locust sleepers under the mill and spiked them to the ground with 3 ft rebar. Then flattened the tops with the saw run all the way down. Now I have a base that is on plane with the rails, so I can flip logs over after flattening the top side.

[sigidi]

 ;)