Building a new mill

[york]

illmill,
on your mudsaw what are you using for blades??It looks good,thanks albert

[Jim_Rogers]

I can't believe someone didn't mention you've painted the debarker the right color.....

Jim Rogers

[illmill]

illmill,
on your mudsaw what are you using for blades??It looks good,thanks albert

I've got some 8" dado chippers that I had laying around.  Not sure what works best.  No doubt I will have some things to tweak.  I made a short movie clip that shows the spring action on the debarker, but I couldn't figure out how to include it in my post

I can't believe someone didn't mention you've painted the debarker the right color.....

Jim Rogers

I wanted to paint this attachment before I took pictures, so details would stand out better in the photo, so I made myself commit to a color scheme.  Thought about CAT yellow, but decided on AC orange.  I've got alot of painting left to do.  I think I will get it through some trial runs before I do.  I do believe an orange mill instills confidence ;)

[Jim_Rogers]

I do believe an orange mill instills confidence ;)

You've got that right, for sure......

[drobertson]

Illmill, nice looking work! 

[bandmiller2]

Illmill,I have traveled the trail your on years ago when I built my bandmill.I used an open center hyd. valve and a needle valve flow control,mine was 1/2".The flow control has a knob to adjust feed and a checkvalve to allow it to gigback with full flow.Depending on your hydraulics you will probibly need a valve in the return line to control how fast you gigback.The logstops take a beating and yours will bend back from large logs hitting them,if you can fit gussets to stregnthen them it would be good form.Also use heavy linkages to raise and lower them as you will want to lower them under tension when cutting smaller logs to let the band clear the top.You will want your belt clutch to overcenter and be easily adjustable.If you place a belt retainer over the belts clearing them when applied but cramping them when dissengauged it will help stop the band from spinning and keep it from creeping.Good job. Frank C.

[illmill]

Frank, thanks for your input. On the hydraulic thing, I am thinking of a way to control flow  to the drive motor without losing flow downstream at the debarker.  I'll work more on that tomorrow.  I think I am scrapping my back stops and rebuilding them.  I am going to study what some manufacturers use.  I am thinking of building them out of some 1" thick plate.  I am getting closer to putting the carriage on the frame.  Building guards, and putting together hydraulics.  More pictures tomorrow

[bandmiller2]

IM,you will need a valve called a flow devider,to keep your feed and debarker running togather.I opted out of a debarker and use a wire brush and axe. Frank C.

[drobertson]

Illwill, not sure if your up/down is binding to the point of frustration, but after viewing your design I did have a thought,  I hesitate to comment mainly because you have gotten so far along, however, if things just dont go as you like, it looks like there is room for you to add some cam followers on the two inside faces of the four corner posts. Removing the outside portions of the sleeve tubing will alieviate the binding. I was thinking all you need is two bearing surfaces per post, and the rollers would move freely.  More work I know, but maybe the time to do it?  All said, nice looking design,  david

[illmill]

David, although I am not sure what you mean by cam followers (I will try and find out), I understand everything you are saying about removing the outer portion of the sleeves.  This has been in the back of my mind as something to try. Would definitely alleviate some binding.  I am getting closer everyday to firing it up.

[illmill]

This is what I have put together for flow control for my drive motor.  Motor is a feed motor off of a brush chipper.  I had two high pressure quarter turn valves, and I figured if I mounted them facing each other, and operated them both simultaneously, I would be closing one while I open the other.  So, as I restrict flow to the drive motor, I send more excess flow (tee'd back into line before debarker control valve) downstream and flow never decreases, as with a needle valve. I am thinking this should save some wear on pump and keep fluid temp down.  I will still have full flow for debarker.


 

With control lever attached between valves:



 

Fully plumbed:



 



  

[bandmiller2]

IM,give her a try.Good form to set your relief valve low and raise the pressure just as much as you need, it will save bending things and let equipment stop if it hits something. Frank C.

[illmill]

I obtained a cheap retractable hydraulic hose reel for a fork lift on ebay.  I have it mounted on the carriage.  This holds two lines that feed the  4 spool valve on the rear of the frame for loader, backstops, clamp, and turner



 

[drobertson]

another good idea!  looks good,

[illmill]

If this reel wears out, I'll probably just have my kids carry the hoses back and forth ;)

[customsawyer]

Welcome to the forum. Very nice work on the build.

[illmill]

Thank you.  This website has been a huge help!