best wood for cabin???

[raptorman01]

in the planning stages for a weekend cabin, I can use oak, or poplar, or ash.  which of these species would be the best?? I know the oak is a lot heavier than the poplar, I don't know anything about ash. would the poplar or ash hold up as well as the oak and also be easier to work with?? thanks for your help!!! Kelly..

[GAB]

raptorman01:
First of all - welcome.

As far as Oak, Ash, & Poplar for a cabin it depends on a lot of factors.  One factor is where, or for what, do you plan on using these woods for.  The poplar would be good for sheathing, or interior wood provided it will not get moist or worse wet, as it does not do well in moist or wet atmospheres.  If the oak is red oak it will need to be kept dry to survive for any length of time.  Oak and ash once dry are a challenge to nail, or nail to, but would make for a sturdy building frame or great interior wood.

Personally I would consider bartering some oak and ash for softwood for the building frame.   Others hopefully will chime in with opinions, the above is my 3 cents.  Gerald

[Dieskyver]

I second the frame out of a softwood.  Be easier to work with. I wouldn't want to have to drive nailes into hardwood too many times. And it'll dry out faster if your milling them from logs. Lighter.
Otherwise, make the best of what you got. Ill be doing poplar floors in a loft area in my cabin.

[D L Bahler]

Will this be a framed or log built project? If framed, Timber framed or nailed frame?

there are 2 things that if you ensure they are done right, material is of very little concern. First, make your sills of the most durable material you have and raise them at least 18 inches above the ground. Second, give your building very generous overhangs. If the sills are of something durable like white oak (ash is actually reasonable in this use, believe it or not) and the roof broad, you can build the walls of almost anything. This is supported by the existence of 500 year old log  buildings with walls of fir and spruce, which have poorer rot resistance than any thing you have listed.

[raptorman01]

the cabin will be log style construction, but it will be rectangular timbers instead of round logs.
another question I have is how well does white oak last in the ground as a post?? the oak timbers are white oak, I am planning to build it up off the ground on pillars. can I use the white oak or should I use salt treated post in the ground? obviously the white oak timbers are quite a bit cheaper than the treated post.. thanks yall

[D L Bahler]

Can you instead set it up on stones?

Think like so:



  

 

Of course you would not need anything so high as this, I am sure.

If you do use the white Oak, it will work OK, just char the ends of the posts first that are to be set into the ground

[Axe Handle Hound]

Wood and dirt are a sure fire recipe for rot...eventually.  If you had cedar posts you might get a good decade or two or more, but if you put white oak directly on the ground it will rot fairly quick as it will be sucking up moisture continuously.  If your budget can swing the treated posts you won't regret it.  Your timbers will stay dry and will last nearly forever with the large overhang that D L Bahler suggested.   

[jander3]

 I am not a fan of posts in the ground.  I dug some holes, filled them with sack-crete, then set some stumps coated with motor oil on the concrete footings.   Followed this up with large overhangs to make sure the foundation stays dry.



  

 


  

 

[D L Bahler]

Very nice Jander. I was considering a similar solution for a project.
Pouring post footer into the ground, then laying the sills on top of those with a grade beam of plastered stone/rubble to create the look of a continuous foundation. this would allow me to elevate part of the structure high enough to have a crawlspace, possible even dig a cellar under part of it at some point in the future...

[D L Bahler]

Only thing is, you should cap the concrete with some barrier to get the wood off of it. the concrete will cause rotting at those points

[SPIKER]

I agree that the White Oak would be best for the foundation if you go that direction however it will rot, the concrete sono-tubes like shown are great way to go and agree still need a barrier between the wood and the concrete for best longevity.   I would also use good insect treatment on the wood as timbers to coat all sides ASAP.   The height above grade higher is better, having a foot is perfect place for rodents to live.   3 or 4 feet is better with good vapor barrier under the floor.   Later digging it out for storage or using it at 4 feet height gives you room for a mower or tools in drier area.    Enclosing it with wide overhangs also will help the structure live lots longer, make sure to look at direction of wind driven rain/snow and have those sides with largest overhangs.

Mark

[Stephen1]

Welcome to the forum.
When I 1st read this I was thinking Jander needs to reply and of course there is a great post from him. As for the type of logs and the style, if you only have the 3 to work with I would go with a sub frame of the white oak and the walls of the poplar, ash in timbers seems to check, unless you can cut a relief into the heart. The poplar would be an easier wood to work than the the oak or ash. As others have said a large overhang. My logs very rarely get wet, only the porch posts on the front get rained on. My logs are eastern spruce, which were straight and easy to work for my 1st project. The pine I wanted were not as straight and the spruce were suggest, thus the large overhang. Also keep the wood off the ground, even pressure treated rots eventually.
Have fun building, and keep us posted on the progress.

[7sleeper]

I also recycle my used engine oil for my outdoor wooden structures (f.e. wood shed, etc.).

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