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Dremel + Al Oxide Grinding Stone + Steady Hands = Sharp Blade?

Started by Deese, August 28, 2013, 05:59:34 PM

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Deese

I've decided to suck it up and buy a sharpener...for one thing--I don't hardly have time to saw logs with a 7 month old little man needing my attention every second I get. :) :) :) :)
Who am I kidding? There just aren't enough hours in a day...
I'll use a resharp service until I am ready for the sharpener.
Might be sooner than later, since I am about to cut 10+ big pine logs that are coming off my boss's property  ;D  might be ordering one next week ;)
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

pineywoods

A dremel is a poor choice for bandsaw blades. Somewhere I saw a jig setup to use a bench grinder with a thin wheel. If you get into do it yourself sharpening, at least build yourself one of these to do the setting. Works well, just a bit slow. Set is just as important as sharp.
click here.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,50749.msg732898.html#msg732898
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Deese

Quote from: pineywoods on August 30, 2013, 12:55:04 PM
A dremel is a poor choice for bandsaw blades. Somewhere I saw a jig setup to use a bench grinder with a thin wheel. If you get into do it yourself sharpening, at least build yourself one of these to do the setting. Works well, just a bit slow. Set is just as important as sharp.
click here.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,50749.msg732898.html#msg732898

Thanks pineywoods. I found this link the other day while browsing through the forum. I will definitely be making one of these in the shop over the weekend (if I can find some scrap angle iron laying around here somewhere). Some setters claim to flatten the blade, thus removing blade deflection...This should pretty much do the same thing as long as your angle iron is nice and smooth, right?
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Nomad

     Deese, just out of curiosity what setter claims to flatten the blade?  It's one I've never heard of.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

bandmiller2

Deese, it seems mills and sawyers like one brand of band better than outhers you won't know until you try several.A new sharp band will cut a lot of wood in fact it would be worth wile to use a band until dull and hang it on the wall and save it until you get a sharpener.Your probably close to Cooks may be worthwile to visit them and look at their sharpening equipment. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Magicman

98 Wood-Mizer LT40 SuperHydraulic    WM Million BF Club

Two: First Place Wood-Mizer Personal Best Awards
The First: Wood-Mizer People's Choice Award

It's Weird being the same age as Old People

Never allow your Need to make money
To exceed your Desire to provide Quality Service

Deese

Quote from: nomad on August 30, 2013, 05:59:37 PM
     Deese, just out of curiosity what setter claims to flatten the blade?  It's one I've never heard of.

http://www.cooksaw.com/setters/single-tooth-setter.html

It claims to "remove blade deflection"
I guess the piney woods setter would do the same since it is clamped tightly...

And yes, Dothan is about an hour and a half from my house.
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Deese

I was just reading through this older thread I started a few months ago on blade sharpening and my last post stated that Cook's single tooth setter claims to "remove blade deflection". This is totally false. I was confused with some type of blade roller that they offer. My apologies  :-[ :-[ :-[

Also, this thread is a great example of someone (ME) that initially had no idea about blade sharpening and how much there is to learn. It's funny looking back and reading how easy I thought it would be :D
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

Deese

And again, thanks to all of you who gave me your input into the matter. Which brings up another point---this is also a great example of how this forum and its members can be so patient/tolerant of folks like me who thought they knew it all. I could have easily been scoffed at, but instead received friendly advice.

Have a great weekend everyone :)
2004 LT40 Super 51hp w/6' bed extension
Cooks AE4P Edger
Cat Claw sharpener/Dual Tooth Setter
Kubota svl75-2 skidsteer w/grapple, forks, brushcutter
1977 Log Hog Knuckleboom loader/truck

roghair

For me in The Netherlands a resharp service is as expensive as new blades so I built both a setter and a sharpener. They work fine for me but as said by others as well, take the time and concentration to do it. In the clip on the sharpener you can see I had to change the cam slightly because in the middle of the gullet the touch was to light. I am a hobby sawyer so I can spent some time on it, but for a pro, a resharp service is probably the best option.
Setter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YP5AE_2M-mI

Sharpener:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qorfoH2lwAw
built a sawmill

roghair

I replied to an old post :( That happens at 1:30am.
I see you bought a sharpener and a setter: good choice!
built a sawmill

two-legged-sawmill

Hello Happy Camper and the many other Posters. Many very good comments and to each your own likeing! Now i have to agree with Happy Camper and the Foresters, there is a very narrow window in sharpening.The point of the tooth does all the cutting, when you get the point sharp stop filing or grinding, thats the secret. Back when the Ross bandmill came out in the 70's there were no sharpeners for the narrow bands. Running a file one stroke by the tooth would do the trick. Most wait to long before sharpening and then too much metal needs to  be removed, it is a trait achieved through by doing! Today it is easier and less time consuming to get them resharpen if your in the right location.  Keep on Milling!
"There are no secrets to success. It is the results of preperation, hard work, and learning from failures"

bushhog920

I got a norwood manual sharpener that uses a dremel mounted on it and a hand crank to move everything. It sucks takes a hour and was still not very sharp. $1600 for a cooks was well worth it.

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