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splitters

Started by bullet20, January 17, 2014, 11:10:44 PM

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bullet20

im fixing to build a splitter and I already have a few parts but I am concerned about the 2 stage pump as in what I might be able to run with a 6hp  gc190 Honda. 4.5x24 cylinder.  and idea and any   to do's  and not to do's? thanks guys

dave_dj1

6 hp limits you to 11-13 gpm two stage pump. Use as large as reservoir for the fluid as you can, heat kills hydraulics.
Just buy a 22 ton , on sale at tsc now for 950.00
Make it tall enough so it doesn't hurt your back using it.
Build a log lift to not kill your back.
I enjoy building my own stuff and I wanted a killer splitter so I built my own. I have way less than it would cost to buy one comparable. 
have fun,
dave

Jack72

Quote from: dave_dj1 on January 18, 2014, 03:32:23 AM
6 hp limits you to 11-13 gpm two stage pump. Use as large as reservoir for the fluid as you can, heat kills hydraulics.
Just buy a 22 ton , on sale at tsc now for 950.00
Make it tall enough so it doesn't hurt your back using it.
Build a log lift to not kill your back.
I enjoy building my own stuff and I wanted a killer splitter so I built my own. I have way less than it would cost to buy one comparable. 
have fun,
dave


Do you have any pictures Dave?
13 Chevy Duramax
Stihl 046 036 009
Northern 25 Ton Splitter

bullet20

thanks dave, I have a 13hp engine that I may acquire  it will help im sure , im shooting  for a 16-17 hp briggs and a 22+gpm pump.   crossing my fingers I can get my paws on them lol

dave_dj1

 

  I do have some pictures, let me go find them.
There is a couple of short videos on youtube also.  Search davedj1 (I think) lol
There's been a couple of minor changes since it was new, lift was made wider and I replaced the diamondplate with expanded stainless and added some better hinges.
11hp chonda, 22 gpm, 4 x 30 ram, 17 gal reservoir.


  

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North River Energy

I have a 6.5(?) hp B&S driving a 13.9 2-stage.  Motor doesn't seem to notice the pump.  Tempted to go to 16gpm.  Go with 3/4 work ports on the valve and cylinder, 'oversize' the filter head.

Al_Smith

A couple things .Do as you like but I'd personally build a tip up unit .While a log lift might indeed lift a 3 foot diameter chunk of oak once split you still have two relativley heavy pieces .

People get way too concerned about cycle time .Even with an 11 gallon per minute pump that thing will go fast enough to wear you out .What would 22 gallon per minute and 16-18 HP do except cost you more money to build it ? One person unless you are 20 years old could never ever run it full tilt and keep up with it .

Oliver1655

Food for thought:

First my dedicated horizontal splitter:  4" x 24" cylinder, 16 gpm 2 stage pump, 11 hp engine, 9 gal reservoir, oil cooler, filter on return side of valves, log lift, out-feed tables, & a 4-way wedge option I keep in place 90% of the time. Pressure release on valve is set for 2,500 psi.  I built it for less than $1,500.  I pull a trailer with a 8 or 12' bed behind the splitter at 70 mph, no problems or whipping.

Dave's splitter shown above, is another example of a dedicated horizontal splitter.



 

Al is correct on not wanting to split a 3' or larger round on a horizontal splitter on your own.  However with a helper it is not too bad.  If no helper, I noodle.

Less than 10% of my rounds are larger than 30". If the log is bigger it will go to the saw mill unless I think it has imbedded metal. So, managing large round with a horizontal splitter in not a problem to me.

Pros of a dedicated horizontal splitter with log lift & out-feed tables. (Wedge fixed to beam):
- Splits are pushed away from the operator's location. Decreases time spent keeping work area clear, better flow of wood, easier to keep several people working efficiently.
- Once the rounds are on the splitter I don't have to bend over to pick splits back off the ground. Really saves my back.
- Having the beam at waist height, it makes it easier on my back. Again limited bending.
- Out-feed table keeps you from having to bend over to pick up splits & prevents splits from landing on your toes.
- Greatly limits the amount of twisting/wrestling the rounds compared to a vertical splitter resting on the ground.

Cons:
- Costs more due to the extra features, log lift & out-feed tables.
- Larger size needs more space to store.
- Generally too big to move by hand.

A vertical splitter which is has a table/splitting surface at waist height which has a log lift will have most of the same pro's as the dedicated horizontal splitter except having the splitting action pushing the splits away from the operator & cost about the same to build.

Horizontal/vertical Splitters:
Pros:
- Easy to find. Most large lumber & farm supply store have them during the fall & winter months.
- Generally can find one on sale for around$1,000.
- Some are able to be moved around by hand.

Cons when in horizontal mode:
-  The beam is too low.  Hard on back being bent over all the time.
- Splits fall at the operator's station. Risk of hitting toes, operator has to take a break from splitting to move splits out of their way, again lots more bending.
Cons when in vertical mode:
- Working at ground level. Hard on back being bent over while working & wrestling the rounds in place. (If you are mainly sitting there on a stool & have a helper doing the wrestling for you it helps, but still much harder on the back in my opinion.)  Using a pipe as a roller to move the round onto the splitter helps a lot. (Use a 24" length of pipe, flop the round down on the pipe then roll it in place.)

A vertical splitter which is has a table/splitting surface at waist height which has a log lift will have most of the same pro's as the dedicated horizontal splitter except having the splitting action pushing the splits away from the operator.

One of the key components is the wedge. A narrow tall wedge will split/cut the rounds will less force needed.  The height greatly cuts down the number of partial splits caused from stringy wood. If you look at the commercial splitters/firewood processor you will find this is the type they use.

Log lifts are also handy for staging several rounds for splitting.

Dave & my splitters both have the splits being pushed towards the hitch.  This is real handy if you are throwing the splits into the bed of the towing vehicle.  However, if you want to split into a pile, windrows, or onto a trailer, consider having the hitch on the other end.  (When I built my splitter, I was using my 1 ton truck with a flat bed to pull it & so I built it with that in mind.  Now I pull it with my tractor or van & throw the splits into a trailer so if I had the hitch on the other end it would be more convenient for me.) 

I will be building another splitter with the hitch on the opposite end of the wedge. While the wedge will be attached to the beam, it will be inter-changeable with other dies/platforms so it can be used as an hydraulic bender & press as well.

So many options ----  Have fun with your build or purchase which ever way you go.


John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

Al_Smith

It's kind of neat to build one .I've done several myself .My last and the one I use is a 16 GPM on an 11 HP with a 5" cylinder ,tip up .

Sometime in the works is a horizintal with a 6 way and probabley a 6 or 7 inch cylinder from a bucket truck .Most likely a 20 HP Honda engine and probabley 22 GPM .

It's for a trimmer bud of mine who sells firewood during the winter .I'll build it he has to come up with the parts .

dave_dj1

Good job summing all that up Oliver!  8)
I can tell the op from my experience and being 6'-2" that using a vertical splitter is bad for me. I bought one, split three pickup loads and sold it a week later.
I guess it all boils down to personal preference, I like the log lift, frequently get rounds 30" to 3' but seldom split alone, usually one of my brothers are with me, we split a load for them and a load for me. I split either into my truck or my dump trailer depending on the day.

I too want to build another splitter, right now the only thing I plan to do different (other than a larger bore cylinder and electric start motor) is spend the money on the auto cycle valve and make it prettier. I have very little money in this one though as a lot of the parts fell into my lap at various times over the last year or so. I did buy new pump, motor and adapter, everything else is re purposed. Like Oliver said, "have fun and build what suits you".
dave

Oliver1655

Dave I considered the auto-cycle valve, but for me it would not be worth the money.  I use the log lift as a staging table & can pile a lot of rounds up on it before I even start the splitter. (Saves on Fuel.) So I don't need the time to grab another round, it's waiting for me. During the return cycle which has a detente, I toss the rounds from the out-feed table to the truck or trailer.  If I have a helper they are able to keep the log lift loaded & help keep the out-feed table empty.  The splitting cylinder only stops when we are rolling a new round in place from the log lift or take a break.

Now if I add a processor to the future splitter, then yes it would be handy.
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

21incher

I built mine as a vertical type with a winch driven loader , a 12 hp kohler motor , 2 stage 22 gpm pump , a 13 gallon reservoir, and a auto return valve. My back is not all that great being at waist height makes the splitting easy it is about the same height as my trailer so small blocks can be loaded without bending. just spin the block to easially size the splits . Designed with a efficient wedge and the 2nd stage of the pump almost never kicks in.

  

 
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Oliver1655

21Incher, Great job on your splitter!   smiley_clapping

I am a RN by trade with a farm / construction background & see so many folks complaining about back problems that I am a little OCD about working heights.  In my shop I have 4 different heights of tables/shop benches so I can work with a minimum of bending over.

With this disclaimer:  It looks like you have to twist to the left to operate the hydraulic valve the way it sits.  Have you tried to back your splitter up on car ramps then level the tongue? It would raise the working height about 8-10 inches.  It would also help you to have your arms centered on the round when your elbows are bent at a 90° angle. which will also help you maintain better alinement for your back. 

I am planning to build my next splitter similar to yours so I can use it as a press also.  I will have a push sled mounted to the end of the cylinder rod instead of the wedge. The wedge will have flanges to slid over the edges of the sled. This way I won't risk damaging the wedge while using it as a press. It will still have a log lift & I may even mount a short conveyor on the opposite side. It will have a 6" cylinder with a 28 gpm 2 stage pump with a 3,000 psi pressure relieve rated valve.  I will be looking more for tonnage than cycle time with this build. (I have < 9 second on my current dedicated horizontal splitter which I will still keep.)

Again, a great looking build!  smiley_applause
John

Stihl S-08s (x2), Stihl S10 (x2), Jonsered CS2139T, Husqvarna 338XPT California, Poulan Microvibe XXV, Poulan WoodShark, Poulan Pro 42cc, McCulloch Mini-Mac 6 (x2), Van Ruder Hydraulic Tractor Chainsaw

21incher

Oliver1655 In the pic it is actually sitting on a hill with the tongue up and the back down and I am standing uphill plus I am twisted for my wife to take a pic. I can adjust that with the size of the spacer blocks under the spring perches if needed. On level ground it was made to be perfect height for my needs. As you can see it is built to be a left handed machine. I have a 4 way wedge that pins in but it slows me down as the cycle time is real fast and I can easily rotate the block for the exact size chunks I want. I backed the valve relief down to about 2200 lbs and it seemed to make the motor run smoother when shearing wood to length and not affect the cycle time which seems to be limited by the 1/2 inch hoses and fittings to the cylinder. All the hydraulics , winch, battery and engine are enclosed which helps keep them clean. It is key start and has several work lights for night use. The 2 stage splitting wedge I designed actually splits most blocks at about 600 -1000 lbs hydraulic pressure on the gauge for the cylinder pressure and actually basically pops them apart when the 2nd stage wedges hit. It is made of a extremely heavy I beam backbone with all 1/4 " steel plate body ( because it was available cheep) So it is over ton an trailers very nicely and does not move under pressure. I also have a second 4 port selector valve, hoses and quick disconnects that are sitting in a drawer that I am going to add so it can also be used as a hydraulic power pack in the future to run a press with a large short stroke cylinder as you are building. I thought about making it a press like you but did not want to  try and make a multi use machine that possibly would not be perfect for both uses plus the gas motor must always be run outside and I want my press inside. The funny thing this is the one machine I have designed and built that If I built another I would not change a thing.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Al_Smith

I think in all honesty if you cut to the chase it depends on several factors .First being a persons mechanical abilities and secondly availability of parts and raw materials .

If a person had the abilities but had no access to components you could easily have nearly as much money in a splitter than buying one ready made .Since the Chinese tried to corner the market on scrap steel it's  not so inexpensive now of days .

You have to have that junk yard dawg mentality some times to pull some of this stuff off without spending a kings ransom .

thecfarm

I know I could not build one. I say that,but I probably could,but I might have to redo it a fews times.  ::)
I bought a splitter,never thinking that another 4-5 years I would have a OWB and having the opportunity to be able to burn softwood and split some big pieces of wood.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

go green

I have a stryker two way splitter with log lifter and split pieces up to 25" diameter.  I like it better than the pivoting vertical ones that require you to be bent over working on the ground.  Hard on the back.

bullet20

wow! looks like ive opened the book of knowledge about splitters,  that being said we are seeing some really    really nice builds. lol I don't know where to start they all look and sound good. thank you guys for all the info  I do see every point being made .  keep em coming I love seeing those splitters,

thecfarm

Check out UN Hooker splitter. It's the first one on this thread. I like the fact that he can drive it to town.  :D

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,56449.0.html
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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