Still learning about my 2300

[doctorb]

A week or so ago I let the fire burn down and did the usual cleaning of the firebox, tubes, and reaction chamber ash.  As it was a nice day (one of the few we've had this winter), I decided to pull the primary solenoid and check for creosote.  Usually I do this only at the end of the year clean up, but, since this winter's been cold enough to burn more than the average amount of wood, I thought I'd check out the airflow pathway.  I found a mild to moderate buildup, with no blockage, cleaned the tube of creosote, and reattached the solenoid.

The stove ran great after the maintenance for the next week, so I felt I was right on track.  On Monday, the 2300 can't keep up the water temps.  I checked it when I got home and the water temp was 170.  I normally run between 185-195. The wood is very dry (two years undercover in a shed), the air holes are clean, the chimney's fine, the fans seem to be working, and heck, I had just cleaned the darn thing!

I try and get the fire going with the door open (and the door switch closed so the airflow/fans is as if the door was closed) and I notice that there are no glowing coals near the airholes within the coal bed.  With the door open, I can get a nice fire, but it's not the usual bright red coal bed I'm used to seeing and I see none of that near the sides of the coal bed adjacent to the air holes.  Strange.  This is the first time in five winters that my stove has failed me, other than bridging or running out of wood.

I open up the back to check on the solenoid opening sequence, and low and behold the electrical contact of the primary solenoid is disconnected.  I assume I had not attached it properly and it had vibrated off.  Hooked her back up and I'm in business again.

Lesson learned:  If you have an airflow problem, don't assume that the solenoids are working properly.  If they are not, this machine is going to perform poorly.  Next time I see a lack of coal burning near the airholes, it's going to translate to a primary solenoid problem very quickly.

[forest]

I had the same thing happen earlier this winter. The house was feeling a little cool so I went and felt the line that heats the hot water, it was Luke warm. I went out and found that the wood I had put in hours before was unburnt. I worked for a couple of hours trying to get the stove to start before I twigged on the fact that it just wasn't getting enough air. Sure enough the main solenoid wasn't opening. I checked the wires and found the problem. It is now something that I will check for immediately, if there is no fire.
I find the E Classic 2400 a wonderful stove if you meet the requirement for dry wood. It has been my experience, the dryer the better. I have gone through a brutal winter where temperatures fell to -50 F, but I never had trouble heating my house, and used 1/3 less wood than I did before I exchanged my old classic for a gasifier.

[bobby s]

Experienced the same problem once with my 2300 a few days after cleaning the solenoids and air passages. Turned out I never tightened the hose clamps on the upper elbow and found it sitting on the bottom of the airbox. Guess I should abstain while doing my cleanouts! .

[talldog]

I also have a 2300. I've been into those solenoid tubes before as well. While I have never had this problem,yet,the wire connections seem to be rather wimpy. I noticed this once and re-attached one and put extra electrical tape on it. I thought to myself at the time that this could be a problem in the future. Now to remember this when the time comes.......