Efco 165 clutch removal

colincb183 · September 24, 2014, 01:59:22 AM

I have an Efco 165 that I need to change the drive sprocket on, and it has an outboard clutch. The clutch has a 19mm nut built into the center for removal and it is a pain to get off. I put a piston stop in it and tried to get the clutch off with no luck, all I used to turn the clutch was a chainsaw wrench, scrench, whatever you want to call it. Me and another guy tried to loosen it with that and still nothing. Its on there tight.

Besides that I've asked around a bit for some advice and gotten contradicting answers. My uncle (my saw guy and dealer) told me not to use an impact because it would tear the crankshaft apart. Another small engine mechanic that I work with told me it wouldn't be any problem to use an impact to get it off. I trust my uncle more than I trust the other guy but I just need other professional advice.

I know most of you have forgotten about this than I'll ever know so please give your input!!!

sablatnic · September 24, 2014, 05:17:18 AM

I do as you, except I use some starter cord to block the piston. The clutch threads are left handed, if you didn't know. Those clutches can be VERY hard to get off!

JohnG28 · September 24, 2014, 10:20:22 AM

Yes, the threads are reversed, so clockwise to loosen. If that's not the issue, try a longer lever arm for the wrench first or a good socket driver for more leverage.

colincb183 · September 24, 2014, 11:31:21 AM

I know its left handed haha, thanks for checking though. That's what I was thinking, to put a breaker bar or a longer wrench on it. It seems that half the battle is getting a socket seated on the nut. Thanks for the help, guys. I'm going to play with it this weekend and I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again!

sablatnic · September 24, 2014, 12:07:13 PM

Just making sure. ^_^

And make sure the piston is up against the piston stop before you start pulling, or you might pierce a hole in it. Don't ask, but that is why I use a piece of starter cord now!
I sometime have to support the other end of the socket with a wooden block or something, to keep it square on the nut. And use a bar or pipe.
Good luck!

HuckFin · September 24, 2014, 12:44:40 PM

You are not going to hurt the crank using a small impact driver. I use a small Dewalt impact driver, (the kind that use apex bits) all the time for such work.

joe_indi · September 25, 2014, 11:19:35 PM

Spraying WD40 or its equivalent behind the clutch area helps along with some careful use of a hot air gin or soldering iron on the clutch.
I wholly second sablatnic in the use of a bit of pipe over the lever to extend it for more leverage, because for some strange reason with a pipe on the lever the socket slipping off the clutch is minimal when compared to a lever extension.

colincb183 · September 26, 2014, 12:17:31 AM

All great advice guys, thanks a lot! I'm going to pick up a screw in piston stop tomorrow and give it a shot tomorrow night. I thought about lubing it up with WD-40 but never considered heating it up, that's a good idea. Hopefully I can get that dang thing apart now.

As far as the impact goes, I think you're right about using a small battery one like that, but all I have is a 1/2" drive pneumatic which I think that could cause some problems

Hilltop366 · September 26, 2014, 07:41:29 AM

I used a small 3/8 air impact in my shop but I would not recommend blocking the piston while using one.

7sleeper · September 26, 2014, 08:59:45 AM

Don't use a screw in piston stop! The list of saws with holes in the middle of the piston is endless with this procedure. Just use some clean rope that you have and put it into the spark plug hole. The forces will be spread out much more evenly!

7

sablatnic · September 26, 2014, 12:44:42 PM

Thanks 7, I believed it was only me!

About the rope. Make sure the exhaust port is closed before you fill the cylinder up with rope, or an end of the rope might get into a port and ruin the piston. I say exhaust port because it is the one you can see through the plug hole, and because the exhaust port is the highest, so when it is closed, so are the others!

JohnG28 · September 26, 2014, 07:54:16 PM

I use rope too, don't like the thought of metal stop even if it doesn't punch through the piston. Have to watch the transfer ports also. I tie a knot just small enough to set through spark plug hole then rotate the crank by hand until I feel it is stopped, then get on it with a socket driver. Never needed anything more for a clutch removal but I'm sure some can get on there pretty well.

joe_indi · September 26, 2014, 09:59:56 PM

Insert a screw driver through the plug hole, into the exhaust port. Rotate the clutch clockwise very slowly till it touches the screwdriver, back off the screwdriver as you keep rotating the clutch, till the tip of the screwdriver clears the exhaust port. This way you avoid accidents and also have maximum space for pushing in the rope.
When re-tightening just rotate in the anticlockwise direction, the rope will remain in place .

colincb183 · September 26, 2014, 11:39:27 PM

Well I went all over town this morning looking for a screw in piston stop and turned out I couldn't find one anywhere. I stopped at a husky dealer and he recommended a rope also so I gave it a shot and it worked great. Did that with a 12" breaker bar and it came off easy. Shoulda listened to you guys in the first place! ;D

chet · September 27, 2014, 07:07:06 AM

Quote from: colincb183 on September 26, 2014, 11:39:27 PMShoulda listened to you guys in the first place! ;D

That'll teach ya. ;D

sablatnic · September 27, 2014, 07:33:49 AM

Glad you succeeded!
About re tightening the clutch. On the Efco you will probably have to take off the starter to avoid damaging it! If you feel the starter cord tightening, stop tightening the clutch, and take off the starter.