Colorado Blue Spruce

[GAB]

I recently acquired 6 Colorado Blue Spruce (CBS) logs and was wondering what the best blade would be to use to try and saw it.  The last time I tried to saw some CBS I tried everything I could think of and was very unhappy with the results.
I have some 4, 7, & 9 degree, 7/8" tooth spacing blades on hand.
Gerald

[ladylake]

 With the blades you have I'd try 4° with 30 thousands  set. Over here I use 3/4 pitch blades which work the best by far, no idea why.   Steve

[Ox]

Less tooth spacing equates to smaller bites being taken.  I guess I'd liken it to a grinder cut off wheel vs. a metal cutting bandsaw blade.
It'll be slower but smoother and I think it'll rob more power because of more teeth being in the cut.
Lots of little bites gives a smoother and flatter cut than a few big bites.
Lord, I hope I'm making some sort of sense... :

[4x4American]

Less tooth spacing equates to smaller bites being taken.  I guess I'd liken it to a grinder cut off wheel vs. a metal cutting bandsaw blade.
It'll be slower but smoother and I think it'll rob more power because of more teeth being in the cut.
Lots of little bites gives a smoother and flatter cut than a few big bites.
Lord, I hope I'm making some sort of sense... :

Makes perfect sense to me...which is good because I can use that knowledge to make cents, otherwise my brain might bog down and start making scents, then someone would have to light some incense...am I making sense? or just dollars?   

[Ox]

Makes perfect sense to me...which is good because I can use that knowledge to make cents, otherwise my brain might bog down and start making scents, then someone would have to light some incense...am I making sense? or just dollars?   
[/quote]

I'm glad I got across to somebody at least once!  But ya lost me... :D

[5quarter]

Ox...Same size bites regardless of tooth spacing, just more of them at any given time in the cut. The feed rate, tooth sharpness and hook angle determine the size of the chips. I've found that all other things being equal, the wider set in the teeth like Ladylake mentioned makes the real difference between a good or bad cut in spruce.

[Ox]

Uh oh.  I guess my dyslexia happened again.  I was thinking of wider tooth spacing not wider set. 
I'm pretty sure I heard that 3/4" tooth spacing will cut smoother but slower in tough trees compared to 7/8" tooth spacing.  In my mind's eye I see many teeth vs. fewer teeth doing the cutting forcing you to go slower with the same power applied thus producing a smoother, flatter cut.  Is this right?
I understand the set thing - more for soft and less for hard. 
I reset a whole blade to .020 from the starting .030 for locust.  Much better.
Nothing worse than thinking you're giving good advice and find out you're wrong and possibly causing someone else grief.
:-[ :-\

[GAB]

Thanks to ALL who replied.
To date, all of my blades have been acquired from W-M and have been resharpened by W-M. I hear what some of you said about the set, however I do not have the capability to reset a blade properly.
Gerald

[drobertson]

I will chime in on this one, only because I have sawn just a few yard blue spruce,  they seemed hairy, meaning not a smooth finish like we get from oak, pine, cherry or the rest of the "norm"  and with this I will, must add, a few years back during the "Saw Mill Shoot out"
one vender, a sponsor I must add while running their mill in the smaller class chose to use the 3/4" spacing.  And while his numbers were down, sawing the poplar, time wise, and not by that much in the end, considering rough sawn framing stock,  I would have choose his, and waited for more if I were building with the lumber.  Just saying a trial may be worth a try.  Piles of lumber is a good thing, but when building with rough stock no one wants to go through a stack to find the right board that matches the rest.  Every thing  hinges on the need off the mill, with consideration of where it's going after.