log to large to move - how to cut?

[opticsguy]

A large cedar fell many years ago and finally getting around to dragging this beast up to the mill.  Now closer to the stump end and the last 16 foot long log is unmovable even with cables and pulleys, so ended up cutting into two 8 foot sections.  Both are way too large for my mill and one is still too heavy to move. Did not measure the diameter but about 4+ feet at the butt end.

So, should I cut the log into quarters, or halvsies, or?  There is a rotten section in the center, about 8-10 inches in diameter. No particular cutting list but cedar is always useable in a variety of sizes around my home.

[TreeWinder]

Plan based on the grain, then use a chainsaw to split into size you can get to mill.  This is maple that I cut down to fit. Used 084 with 48"bar.

[dgdrls]

Get a swing mill in there to at least whittle it down to a "manageable size" or finish it right there.
I would love to help, wish you were closer.

Best
DGDrls

[mad murdock]

Cheapest and quickest way would be to quarter it with a chainsaw, if you have one large enough. Probably want something 80cc or larger with at least a 36" bar/chain. Snap a chalk line and follow it straight, you will be amazed at how well you can get it. Sounds like it will be some nice CVG cedar!

[DMcCoy]

Looking at the butt end what does it look like?  Big cedars 'buttress' themselves and those buttresses can get absorbed into the log making bark pockets of unknown length.    I have sawed a few big ones and found that if the bark has been folded into the wood it makes some really difficult sawing - difficult in that many boards are unusable.  I think I cut the last one into firewood.  I like cutting cedar, but the butt ends have to be the most variable.  Some look like coke bottles, others the buttress parts are spread like a hand, some are ok.  Overall I have found the portion of mill-able wood is not enough at the very butt end and will cut firewood out of it until the wood clears and then take logs from there up.
edit - I quartered mine with a chainsaw.  I filed my chain at 15 deg. once and decided it wasn't worth it. expect lots of stringy sawdust.  Good luck.

[dboyt]

I agree with quartering with the chain saw.  That's what I do with my big oak logs.  That will also give you some nice quartersawn pieces, and allow you to work around the rot in the center.  Looking forward to the pictures.

[opticsguy]

OP here, no photo because seems to be impossible to load photos or to make an album or whatever is required.

[backwoods sawyer]

If it is hollow go ahead and quarter it.
If you have a handfull of splitting wedges you can get away with making a single cut with a smaller saw down to about an 18" bar, used to do a lot of split rail style fence post this way.
But the longer the bar the straighter the cut ;D

When i am splitting a log down I lay a straight edge on the log and make a cut thru the bark down the straight line with the saw, (makes it easier to follow the line when you wipe off a pile of sawdust off the log)

Stand at one end and make a cut top to bottom, then climb up on the log and follow the cut down to the other end, climb down and finish the cut from the end of the log.

If your log is not off the ground don't try to cut all the way thru in the center, just wedge it the rest of the way apart.
Once in half, quartering is easly done.

If the center is solid on the second log mill it as a half log.
To get it to stand up on the mill cut a flat edge on the side of the half of the log that will allow the cut side to stand up against the log stops.

  

  

  

    

[opticsguy]

Thank you Backwoods Sawyer, excellent advice!!!
My saw is a Stihl 026 so my cuts certainly wont be that deep but probably enough to get this log done.

[beenthere]

OP here, no photo because seems to be impossible to load photos or to make an album or whatever is required.

There are many, many photo's posted here on the forum. Not difficult at all.
Click on the "gallery" in upper right corner and you will see the thousands of pics under the different members' names.

Would you like to post yours?

Gladly help if you would.

The basic premise is to load your pics into your own forestry forum gallery set up by you in your profile.
Then once the pic is uploaded into your gallery, you can place it in your post. Pretty straight forward.

[opticsguy]

Thank you "beenthere".  After spending about 20 minutes trying to make an album and load photos with no success, I stopped, better things to do with my time.  No matter what buttons I push it says i have no authorization. Will try again later.

[redbeard]

Ripping WRC especially when center is soft goes pretty easy. Quartering it would be easiest unless you want some wide boards then just split the logs. They will be harder to clamp though.

[opticsguy]

OP - here again.  Big rains the next few days and will get back to this cedar log in a week or so.  I finally uploaded a photo but I dont have a clue where my gallery is located. 

I did also end up with a 18+ ft cedar log about 12-14" diameter, and suddenly thinking how nice this could be for a cedar stripe canoe project.  Oops!! Wait do I have enough time????   :D

[beenthere]

Good job on the upload.
If you now go to "Click here to add Photos to post" (the line below the posting window) it will bring up another window where you can upload another pic, or go to "My gallery" and there you will find your pic. Click on it, and scroll down below the pic a ways and you will see how to post it... couple ways.
Preview the post to see that it shows as you like it, and then click on Post.

[ohwc]

Why keep running your head into a wall? Use the right equipment for the job. Find someone with a swing mill and pay or have them cut on share. Just a little easier and smarter use of time.

[backwoods sawyer]

Why keep running your head into a wall? Use the right equipment for the job. Find someone with a swing mill and pay or have them cut on share. Just a little easier and smarter use of time.

WRC is an easy wood to work with.
The time spent trying to locate a swing mill may well be more then the time to split and mill the log with the equipment he has.

The number of swing mills is not the same in all areas, then add in a good many have full time jobs and full schedules, I have had customers looking for two years to find a mill to mill there logs for those reasons ;) so which wall do you bang your head on?

[Jemclimber]

I'm with Backwoods Sawyers.   Plus I'm too stubborn to ask for help and too frugal to pay someone to do something I can do myself.  :D  Use what you have and get-r-done.

[Hilltop366]

I'm with Backwoods Sawyers.   Plus I'm too stubborn to ask for help and too frugal to pay someone to do something I can do myself (even if it cost more).  :D  Use what you have and get-r-done.

I fixed it to apply to me too. ;D

[Brucer]

One of my customers bought a dozen 16' logs that were too big for my log supplier to process -- got a good deal on them. Then we arranged to deliver them to my site with my next load.

The ones with 42" tops were too big for the Wood-Mizer. So he used a level to mark a line across each end, right though the centre. Then he ran a chalk-line down each side between the end marks. And then he borrowed a chain saw with a 30" bar and ran it down the chalk line on each side. A couple of wedges in the first cut kept the bar from getting pinched as it finished the second cut.

That was all we needed to do. With my head raised all the way I have 35" to the blade and another 14" of clearance in the throat, so I can process a half log that's 49" across.

I put the half log on the mill with the flat side against the side stops and broke it down into manageable cants. Mind you, getting the half log on edge took some creative use of the clamp and the turner ;D.

The key is to know your mill clearances and make DanG sure you can get the blade through the log over it's full length.

[backwoods sawyer]

Mind you, getting the half log on edge took some creative use of the clamp and the turner ;D.

And that is the reason I started making a flat cut along what will be the bottom of the half.
I have been having good luck standing them up on the first try by chaining the log to the clamp with the flat side up and keeping it pulled in as it is loaded, shorten the chain up and drag it onto the mill bed with the clamp then raise the turner and clamp together and they stand right up.
Of course it is always nice to have equipment handy to assist.