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cutting large diameter plastic pipe

Started by opticsguy, October 18, 2014, 04:31:13 PM

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AnthonyW

Along the lines of what Solomon said, there is no particular reason to use a bandmill saw blade to cut the rings with the wide spaced teeth (3/4 and 7/8" pitches). Thinking slightly outside the box, as this job already is. If you can fit a 1" blade on the mill wheels, there are 10tpi and 6tpi blades available that can be cut to length for you. just be careful when you tension it, the usual rules won't apply.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

Nomad

     You can't mount a 1" band on a mill with guide wheels designed for 1ΒΌ" band; won't work.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
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opticsguy

OP here,  thanks for all the input. I wont be cutting these rings for a month, just something I am preparing for.  For clarification, the 12" diameter pipe would be stood on end and very securely fastened.  I only need two rings, 12" diameter and 3" wide.  A slow feed will probably do the trick however it was interesting about the possible build up of the plastic on wheels, guides etc.

One more thought, someone on another thread mentioned they removed the blade guides on their saw and seemed to be no difference in the cutting.  So using a 1" or smaller blade on the mill without guides might?? be possible?

Or??

Thanks again!!
TK 1220 band mill,  1952 Ford F-2, 1925 Dodge touring, too many telescopes.

tule peak timber

Quote from: Solomon on October 20, 2014, 05:07:24 AM
I have NOT cut any plastic pipe on my mill at all.  However, my thought on the matter is that if you're going to be cutting "rings" ,   Laguna makes a high quality carbide band blade they call the " Resaw King "  it's pretty pricey,  around $2.00 per inch.  The teeth look like the teeth on an 80 tooth 12 inch miter saw blade.     Now, obviously you will have to clamp short sections of pipe standing verticly on the deck.  If you could find a square slab of pvc matieral a couple inches thick and say.......  16 x 16 inches , then glue the end of the pipe to it (giving the glue plenty of time to set)  this would give you the means to clamp it securely.  When you get to  the bottom, you can skim the top of the slab off cleanly and flat in order to glue the next section of pipe to it.   I have never tried this, it's just some abstract thought of mine , so I invite brutaly honest critisisim from the expierenced sawyers out there.    Does anyone see any issues with this idea ? 
Does anyone see any safety concerns ?   Feedback Please  !!!
Respectfully,,,ZERO success with the Laguna blades on my sawmill or in the shop. Lots of wasted $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

SPIKER

I would cut a hunk big enough to make mounts out of, split 24" in half length wise.   take each half and screw it into some dim lumber.   Then use those half lengths of pipe to clamp the vertical section. 

I  would think that finer toothed blade with medium lower blade speed and shoving the thing thru faster will cut cleaner.   Just have to make sure the work dont move  ;)

Mark
I'm looking for help all the shrinks have given up on me :o

blade69001

I would use a skillsaw and a couple pairs of vise grips for this project. Using a mill seams like a bunch of extra work. Strap the tube on some benches so it won't move. Snap the vise grips to the deck of the skillsaw making a three inch stop. Perfect 3" rings every time.
Just being me, But it is ok you do not have to like me.

LittleJohn

Table saw and a fence  ;D

Used this method to cut the tops off a couple of old 5-gal buckets, that the bottums blew out off.  Used the "forms" to make concrete pavers with the munchkins hand prints in

Solomon

Quote from: tule peak timber on October 20, 2014, 10:11:14 PM
Quote from: Solomon on October 20, 2014, 05:07:24 AM
I have NOT cut any plastic pipe on my mill at all.  However, my thought on the matter is that if you're going to be cutting "rings" ,   Laguna makes a high quality carbide band blade they call the " Resaw King "  it's pretty pricey,  around $2.00 per inch.  The teeth look like the teeth on an 80 tooth 12 inch miter saw blade.     Now, obviously you will have to clamp short sections of pipe standing verticly on the deck.  If you could find a square slab of pvc matieral a couple inches thick and say.......  16 x 16 inches , then glue the end of the pipe to it (giving the glue plenty of time to set)  this would give you the means to clamp it securely.  When you get to  the bottom, you can skim the top of the slab off cleanly and flat in order to glue the next section of pipe to it.   I have never tried this, it's just some abstract thought of mine , so I invite brutaly honest critisisim from the expierenced sawyers out there.    Does anyone see any issues with this idea ? 
Does anyone see any safety concerns ?   Feedback Please  !!!
Respectfully,,,ZERO success with the Laguna blades on my sawmill or in the shop. Lots of wasted $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

I don't think I will be buying a resaw king blade for my mill in light of your post.  My mill blades are 229 inches  1 1/2.   That would be over $450.00 wasted on one blade.   Thanks for the info Brother !
Time and Money,  If you have the one, you rarely have the other.

The Path to Salvation is narrow, and the path to damnnation is wide.

petefrom bearswamp

Never tried 12" plastic but cut plenty of smaller stuff on my miter and table saw, up to 6"
Did cut off 15" dia aluminum culvert pipes in my guided youth with my old but reliable Homelite XL12.
Lots of debris but came out Ok.
My table saw works very well on 6" stuff being careful, 12" I am not sure.
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