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High speed blade guides

Started by petefrom bearswamp, July 01, 2015, 04:52:16 PM

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petefrom bearswamp

After adjusting these rascals for the different thickness blades .042,045,055.
I took them off at the suggestion of my neighbor  Tim Roberson who is on his 5th mill  now having started portable milling in the early 80s.
He got tired of wrasslin with them.
I notice no difference in the quality of my lumber without the guides nor does he, as long as we mind our Ps and Qs namely sharp blades and not overspeeding the carriage.
Any thoughts and experiences pro and con with them out there??
See a bunch of you at the pig roast.

Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

Magicman

I look forward to meeting you at the Pig Roast, but no way do I agree with removing the blade guides.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

redbeard

I've read where its possible to cut wide with sharp blades but Iam Leary of trying it. I suppose it would work but its risky of blade damage coming off the wheels. There's to many better reasons to leave them on.  Imo
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

Nomad

     I don't think Pete's talking about the blade roller guides, but the "high Performance" blade guides.  Am I correct?
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

drobertson

Yes I have heard of not having them on, with no issues, but of two, after seeing the lumber stacks not quite sold on the idea.  Switching blade thicknesses is kind of a pain, I don't do that either, but adjusting the clearance is not that bad.  When doing mast and chain lube I give the blade guide bolts a quick shot of oil. The conditions around the 1/4-28 adjuster bolt can get tight when left alone.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Chuck White

If you're talking about "High Performance Blade-Guide rollers", I'm not sold on them, I removed them from my mill.

They interfere with clearance!

Now, if you're talking about sawing without any blade-guide rollers, I don't see how it could be done safely, you need that flange behind the blade!

And, if you're talking about "High Speed blade guides", that's a whole nother ball game and I don't even know what they look like!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

POSTON WIDEHEAD

I think he's talking about the HP blade guide blocks, not the rollers.
I have the them and would never take them off. Several people I know have taken them off their mills for more width when sawing slabs.
Personally my market calls for more lumber than anything. The HP guides give my blade more stability and I would truly miss them if they were gone.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Magicman

 :-X  My Dad had an (old saying).  "It's good to know, but it is better to understand."  Thanks for clarifying my misunderstanding.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

dustyhat

Just curios what these blade guides are made from, are they sandwich type, i have used carbide and bronze for a bottom blade guide before . local guy that saws production swears by them. just wondering.

drobertson

just for a side note, anyone that knows about or has a resaw knows the need for the blade guides on a blade, both the rollers on top and the fixed bottom on the bottom.  It should also be known and said that these guides in no way shape or form will correct an improperly aligned blade.  They are guides and just that, they minimize blade deflection, but do not carry a band straight if the alignment is off.
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

stavebuyer

We removed the ones from our diesel LT70. (the "high performance wear pads"; not the rollers themselves...). Only difference noticed was a lot more sawdust went through the sawdust chute instead of being deflected by the wear pads.

petefrom bearswamp

stavebuyer, I noticed the sawdust thing too.
Another thing with the wear blocks, I had to have them machined flat after about 200 hrs.
IMO the use or not to use thing is probably similar to the old Chevy Ford Ram and now Toyota preference for a PU

Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

YoungStump

I cranked mine back away from the band as far as I could, and have not noticed any difference in cut quality.
Echo Enterprises 45HD2 production series band mill, Cook's Edger, sawing mostly pallet cants, rr ties, and grade lumber.

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