Newbie looking at a wood mizer lt-10

smoker62 · October 06, 2015, 12:33:12 PM

Found a dealer about 1-1/2 from my cabin property I bought in December. I have 6 acres of 40-50ft tall Red Pines and thought it would be great to use some trees I had to fell for interior flooring , paneling etc. He has a demo LT-10 for 4k I may go look at depending on hrs it may be a good deal. I was looking at the Norwood 26 but this one is assembled and ready to go. Plus a dealer not too far away. What do you all think ?
How long does the red pine have to dry to use for rustic interior use ? I know it is sappy stuff .

Magicman · October 06, 2015, 01:53:06 PM

First, Welcome to the Forestry Forum, smoker62. Is sawing/watching the two sawmills possible and then you can be objective and make up your own mind. I would go for the Wood-Mizer, but then I am partial. ;D

Bruno of NH · October 06, 2015, 04:35:11 PM

Buy the WM you can't go wrong they hold up for a good resale .
Jim/Bruno

smoker62 · October 06, 2015, 04:56:18 PM

Thanks guys , leaning that way because #1 its less money, #2 its assembled and running for demos, #3 , close proximity to my cabin so I can pick it up and be sawing in 3 hrs round trip.

Less hp than Norwood, 13 vs 10, read other threads saying its overpriced for what you get and the ez jr is a better buy. Ford vs Chevy I guess. I just want to mill my red pine for interior panels and maybe some timbers for a large outside gazebo 8)

Ianab · October 06, 2015, 06:41:52 PM

While the WM mills do cost a bit more, they are well made, and hold their value better than most. So if you decide to sell it later, or upgrade to something better, you will recover most of your investment. The mill is certainly capable of doing the job your want.

Regarding drying 1" pine boards, 2 -3 months depending on the season. It wont be totally dry, but it will be under 20% MC, and safe to plane and nail up as long as you use a method that allows for a bit more shrinkage as the wood fully dries to inside moisture levels. Shiplap or T&G leaves an expansion gap between e very board, and if those open up slightly it's no big deal.

You might need to consider how any pitch in the wood is going to affect the finish if the wood isn't kilned set the pitch. Not the end of the world if you are going "rustic" in a cabin of course.

Sixacresand · October 06, 2015, 09:46:26 PM

Welcome the Forum, Smoker62. I don't know anything about the Norwood 26, but I am very familiar the WM LT10. That was my first Mill, which I thoroughly enjoyed and used to the day I sold it. It is a manual mill, and requires a lot grunt work. Hopefully, you have the support equipment for which ever one you eventually purchase. Good luck and please post photos and progress reports.

gfadvm · October 06, 2015, 10:37:34 PM

Quote from: smoker62 on October 06, 2015, 04:56:18 PM
Thanks guys , leaning that way because #1 its less money, #2 its assembled and running for demos, #3 , close proximity to my cabin so I can pick it up and be sawing in 3 hrs round trip.

Less hp than Norwood, 13 vs 10, read other threads saying its overpriced for what you get and the ez jr is a better buy. Ford vs Chevy I guess. I just want to mill my red pine for interior panels and maybe some timbers for a large outside gazebo 8)

And if it's being used for demos, it should be dialed in well. Now get em to throw in a cant hook and a box of blades and you're golden.

thecfarm · October 07, 2015, 06:21:22 AM

smoker62,welcome to te forum.
The next question,how will you get the logs to the sawmill?

smoker62 · October 07, 2015, 07:06:31 AM

Thanks for the welcomes and advice. I have a Can Am Commander X 1000 cc that I use to pull the logs to a pile right now. I have a skid plate the I made which lifts the front of the log when you start pulling it so it doesnt drag the nose and bury it .

I usually cut them in 12 ft lengths and have no problem moving them. While it would be nice to have lifting capabilities , right now I dont have tractor funds.

I also use the winch and wireless remote to help me drop them in the direction intended .

addysdaddy · October 08, 2015, 06:46:01 AM

Welcome to the Forum. Lots of good advice here for us Newbies. 8) I currently have an LT10 and love it. I got mine new from a local dealer when they were on special with the upgraded larger engine. Unless you get the bed extension forget 12 foot logs. 11 foot 3 is all i can squeeze and 10 foot is comfortable. Get yourself a good cant hook and learn to move at a slow comfortable pace. The only thing I didn't like was the clamping system. Got that figured out and you can see the fix in my post in "useful sawmill mods" 10 - 12 inch wide boards is as far as I've gotten with my mill. wider than that it starts to do a doggy shake thing but still cuts great. Pull the trigger... You'll never regret it. Good Luck ;D

dgdrls · October 08, 2015, 10:12:24 PM

Quote from: smoker62 on October 07, 2015, 07:06:31 AM
Thanks for the welcomes and advice. I have a Can Am Commander X 1000 cc that I use to pull the logs to a pile right now. I have a skid plate the I made which lifts the front of the log when you start pulling it so it doesnt drag the nose and bury it .

I usually cut them in 12 ft lengths and have no problem moving them. While it would be nice to have lifting capabilities , right now I dont have tractor funds.

I also use the winch and wireless remote to help me drop them in the direction intended .

Welcome to the FF.
For loading build yourself a log-deck.
I had an LT10 and it was good however, I did run into issues with the head shaking when sawing certain species.

Don't let an easy trip sway your decision.
The EZ mill IMHO, its built more HD than the LT10,

Best
Dan

Chuck White · October 09, 2015, 02:32:26 PM

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, smoker62.

thecfarm · October 10, 2015, 07:05:47 PM

Yes,build a log deck. I have one,I put the logs on the deck,than I use a peavey to roll them on the mill. This keeps the tractor away from the mill.Build the deck a little higher than the mill.