Are the Razor tip blades worth the cost?

[Arkyrick]

Has anyone used the Razor tip blades from WM? They are 3 times the cost of the regular blades, are they worth the cost?

[Magicman]

I have no experience with them, but if you hit metal with one it would ruin your day.  I am content to stay with DoubleHards.

[Chuck White]

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Arkyrick.

[Percy]

I have used the razor tip blades in the .045/10 degree configuration on several occasions. They are amazing as far as staying sharp is concerned. The profile is identical I believe to the regulaf WM 10 degree blades. I used them on my LT70 while using the resaw attachment. We had three containers to fill with 1x6 and had to split 2x6 to do it. Resawed a container a day(19,000 Bdft plus)and used only one razor tip blade for each container with no sharpening. They did not break or get dull/hot throughout the day. Resawing is a relatively clean process so that helped. Using doublehards would have been at least 8 blade changes. At 7 miniutes a blade change, I got an hours more production out of mill and staff which payed for the extra blade cost and then some. For regular milling,log breakdown I use 13 degree doublehards

[Rachiano]

They are worth the cost if the lumber you cut is priced high. They do stay sharper longer on normal wood that is cuttable with doublehard or silvertip. I use them to cut "Angelique". A wood that has a very high silica content in it. Even the stellite tipped blades get dull at about 1.5 m3 of logs input. Cutting this wood with regular doublehard gives you about 3 passes of 15 foot in the log and you can change the blade. This stellite and carbide blades are the only blades to cut this specie. I use the 7 degree stellite and it works ok. They do stay a little longer alive regarding flex life. So it's worth the cost if it pays back.

[Arkyrick]

Great information guys, I think I will try one and see for myself, I have been cutting oak logs for someone and have been going through blades like crazy, the logs are dirty and I have improved things by washing them and debarking the ones I can. I will buy a Razor and give it a try.
Thanks again everyone
Arkyrick

[mesquite buckeye]

Cutting dirt and sand will dull any blade. :(

[Arkyrick]

I just thought I'd post the results of the Razor tip blade I tried, It did last about barely twice as long as the double hard blades. But I don't feel the extra cost was worth it so I am going to keep using the Double hard which are less costly.

[stanwelch]

Thanks for the feedback on your experience with this blade. I haven't tried the Razortip blade but I didn't think they would be worth it for the type of sawing I do -- low volume personal use stuff.
Nice looking sawmill shed and milling setup. Any more pictures?

Stan -- a fellow LT15 owner

[MartyParsons]

Hello, the Carbide ( Razor) or Stellite tipped blade works well with silica that has grown into the wood. If the media moves ( Dirt) then the performance is not as great. It is amazing how smooth the lumber is when using this blade. This also may be a reason to use these blades. There is not tooth set in these blades, the width of the welded tip creates the set. They can be sharpened with the CBN wheel. Customers are using this blade to saw thin pieces of wood for laminates.
Bi-Metal is another option to try and not as expensive. These blades stay sharp longer and you can run a thinner blade because of this. Thinner blade give you more run time ( flex life )
Hope this helps.
Marty

[Brucer]

I bought a box of stellite razor tips when the first came out. I figured that if I could run them for three times as long between sharpenings, the savings on shipping charges and sharpening charges would easily make up the extra cost.

A couple of things I overlooked:
- The tiny cracks that develop in the gullet get too big to be ground out in a sharpening -- so the blades break sooner.
- They don't survive sawing metal any better than Double Hards (don't saw the metal any better either :D).
- Recommended blade lube (water, cooking oil, dish soap) leaves a film of sticky, sawdust-impregnated cooking oil everywhere on the saw head.
- After I gave up on my sharpening guy and bought my own (used) drag sharpener, I could no longer sharpen them.

They were intended for a specific application as Marty suggested, and they are really good for that.