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3120 chainsaw problem "Need Help"

Started by underwaterlogger, January 02, 2016, 12:05:03 PM

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underwaterlogger

I use a 3120 for milling. It cranks right up and is ready to go. But after cutting a couple slabs it's a pain to keep it running. Then when I do get it running I have to give it the gas it won't idel. Anyone have this problem before?
Mobile Dimension circular mill, Woodmizer LT15, Granberg, 50 hp John Deere, 28x9 all aluminum barge, homemade kiln, a ton of chainsaws, scuba gear, scuba certification, and a ton of muscle is how I get it done.

mad murdock

I would check the spark plug, and plug lead, take all the plastic off and give it a thorough cleaning, so it does not build up extra heat while running.  The fine milling dust can accumulate in all the wrong places leading to poor cooling air flow.  take off the starter cover and make sure there is not build up on the flywheel and surrounding area as well.  After that, I would get a carb kit for it, and install that, and don't forget to check or change the fuel filter.  These PM items don't cost a lot, and make a big difference in the saws performance day to day.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

starmac

Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

underwaterlogger

Thanks a lot mad Murdock I believe the carb is fine it cranks so well and runs great til I cut a few slabs. Is this from overheating. If so what causes it to act crazy when over heated. Tank vent? Will this be a tube?
Mobile Dimension circular mill, Woodmizer LT15, Granberg, 50 hp John Deere, 28x9 all aluminum barge, homemade kiln, a ton of chainsaws, scuba gear, scuba certification, and a ton of muscle is how I get it done.

old2stroke

Sounds like a restrictive fuel tank vent.  As fuel is sucked out of the tank, the vent valve lets air in to replace the fuel, if the valve is completely blocked you should run into fuel starvation problems after less than 10 minutes of full throttle operation so it is probably only partially blocked.  The most common valve is a short piece of tubing inserted through the wall of the tank.  It's open on the outside end and squeezed shut on the inside end.  Called a "duck bill valve" and they are prone to being destroyed  by ethanol in the fuel.  Another  common  vent  is a one-way valve built into the fuel tank cap.  An easy way to determine if this is the problem is just to loosen off the cap and let air in whenever your problem shows up.  Good luck, the little beggars can be hard to find.
Not too many saws.  Not enough storage space.

underwaterlogger

The problem will happen even right after I'm done fueling so when I recrank it it doesn't wanna run unless I give it fuel. Keep in mind it only does it after a few cuts are made.
Mobile Dimension circular mill, Woodmizer LT15, Granberg, 50 hp John Deere, 28x9 all aluminum barge, homemade kiln, a ton of chainsaws, scuba gear, scuba certification, and a ton of muscle is how I get it done.

underwaterlogger

Oh yea and the motor fins are clean as new.
Mobile Dimension circular mill, Woodmizer LT15, Granberg, 50 hp John Deere, 28x9 all aluminum barge, homemade kiln, a ton of chainsaws, scuba gear, scuba certification, and a ton of muscle is how I get it done.

starmac

Could it be an air leak somewhere causing it to lean out once warmed, if so that would not be a good deal.
Not a big two stroke mechanic, but I think the ignition could also be a possibility, mabe breaking down some as things heat up. This would be easy check by checking for a difference color spark between cold and heated to the point it isstarts giving you trouble.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

ehp

sounds like its going very rich on the low speed jet side , if you got a dealer or someone that knows what there doing have them adjust the carb or at least make sure the carb is set correct , only 1 jet on it unless its one of the first 3120's made , also if your air filter is plugged up bad that will cause the saw to go rich as well

underwaterlogger

I cleaned the crap out of the air filter. I'm going to see if that makes a difference. That's for all the help all you guys are so helpful.
Mobile Dimension circular mill, Woodmizer LT15, Granberg, 50 hp John Deere, 28x9 all aluminum barge, homemade kiln, a ton of chainsaws, scuba gear, scuba certification, and a ton of muscle is how I get it done.

old2stroke

How long does it operate at full throttle before the problem shows up?  Not sure how long it takes to cut a few slabs.
Does the saw have to be shut off and let cool down before it will start and run normal for awhile and does that saw have electronic ignition or the old points setup?  Some semiconductor ignition modules are prone to shut down when they get too hot.
When it does its trick, pull the spark plug and let us know what colour it is and if it is wet or dry.
Not too many saws.  Not enough storage space.

CTYank

Even easier for checking the spark- an inline tester. Lisle makes a decent one. connect one end to the plug, the other to the plug lead. There's a transparent chamber in the middle with a spark gap.

After milling those few slabs, shut it off and connect the tester. Fire it up and look at the spark. You might want to hook it up before milling, to see what "baseline" spark looks like, so you could spot differences.
'72 blue Homelite 150
Echo 315, SRM-200DA
Poulan 2400, PP5020, PP4218
RedMax GZ4000, "Mac" 35 cc, Dolmar PS-6100
Husqy 576XP-AT
Tanaka 260 PF Polesaw, TBC-270PFD, ECS-3351B
Mix of mauls
Morso 7110

grweldon

The crankcase on 2-cycle engines need to stay well sealed.  Depending on how old the saw is (I assume it's quite old) and assuming that they have never been replaced, crank seals will wear out and this will be accelerated by ethanol in the fuel.  I use only non-ethanol fuel in all my small engines because I can get it.

As the saw gets warm and up to operating temperatures, everything expands (including seals) and the oil film that may have been hiding the leaking seals (may not be hiding them at all, but it's possible), the air entering the crankcase decreases the efficiency of the fuel transfer to the top of the piston and can possibly affect the mixture ratio as well, causing leaning of the mixture and subsequent poor running and hard starts.

I'm not saying this is your problem, but it could be, or at least one problem contributing.  I fly a 2-cycle engine on my ultralight aircraft and I do all my own engine maintenance.  I'm quite familiar with the important things of the conventional-style 2-strokes.  I bet my life on it when I fly.  I inspect one crank seal on every pre-flight inspection because I can see it.  Not so easy on a chainsaw.

If this saw is old and has never been rebuild and had crank seals replaced, it may be the time.  If it's leaning out when you use it, it won't last long before it's trash.  Oh, and the suggestion above about checking the ignition module after heating is a good suggestion as well...
My three favorite documents: The Holy Bible, The Declaration of Independence and The Constitution of the United States.

Grandedog

     Howdy,
   3120's have solid intake manifolds and will vapor lock with enough heat. If you're going to use the 3120 for milling, you should have the milling jet in the carb. It's a little larger than the stock jet and offers more fuel to stay cooler. Also, when milling with a 3120 you should use as high of octane fuel that you can get. The octane will help cool the saw. If you are having heating and pre detonation issues it will show as pitting on the top of the piston on the exhaust side.
Regards
Gregg
Gregg Grande
Left Coast Supplies LLC
1615B South Main Street  Willits, CA 95490
888-995-7307  Ph 707-602-0141                   Fax 707-602-0134  Cell 707-354-3212
E-Mail  gregg@leftcoastsupplies.com   www.leftcoastsupplies.com

AdkStihl

Quote from: ehp on January 03, 2016, 06:22:17 PM
sounds like its going very rich on the low speed jet side , if you got a dealer or someone that knows what there doing have them adjust the carb or at least make sure the carb is set correct , only 1 jet on it unless its one of the first 3120's made , also if your air filter is plugged up bad that will cause the saw to go rich as well

How you been Ed?
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ehp


ehp

I'm still going with its getting rich, he said he has to open the throttle to get saw to start, if it was air leak and most other things you would have to choke it to get it to fire back up. I would pull carb off, rebuild it and MAKE SURE the needle and seat arm is set proper , sounds like its set to high and once the heat and vibration gets to the carb it floods ,

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