Difference between Setworks and Power feed on WM mills

[gump]

I am considering purchasing a Wood Mizer manual sawmill. After consideration, I have narrowed it down to the L28 or L35. The big difference I see is the Setworks that comes with the L35. If I purchase the the L28 with the Power feed option, the difference in cost is about $4,000 CND. Is the setworks option really worth that?? I am more interested in lumber quality and consistency in size over production. For the next several years I will be just sawing for myself. The other decision to be made is the power plant..leaning towards diesel?? Any input is appreciated.

[WV Sawmiller]

   I have said before I would be lost without my setworks. I use it religiously to consistently cut the same thickness lumber. IMO it is well worth the difference in price.

    My typical sawing process is to saw/square opposite sides to the thickness to give me the width of boards I want. I next flip the cant and trim off the remaining bark, rotate to the 4th side, slab off to the next predetermined mark off my cheat sheet based on the lumber thickness I am cutting, after that every cut is made using my setworks. This will bring me down to the last board every time with all boards the same thickness and no extra trim cut required at the bottom due to a thick or thin board.

    If sawing 2X4s I do the same thing to cut my 4" cants using a 4-1/8" setting on my setworks then rotate them and cut on my 2-1/8" mark to give me perfect 2X4s.

   The only time I cut a bad board is when I forget and use the wrong starting mark (or forget to lower my rollers and cut wedges or some other operator error).

    You can cut good lumber without it but why worry about it when you don't have to do so.

[Magicman]

You said "consistency" and that is what Setworks is all about.  If I lost my Setworks I would hang up my spurs cant hook.

[rl]

  it well worth the money   I saw a lot of dimensions   2x4's are 1 9/16 x 3 9/16   it's the same for a lot of sizes that aren't 2.4.6.8 or ten  adding 1 9/16 then 1/8 for kerf then 1 9/16 and kerf and1 9/16 and kerf  get's real confusing.   press button and it's done for you  I usually start with it on 4th cut ,last slab

rl

[John S]

Yes, Setworks (I have Simple Set) along with the moveable scale, help make consistent cuts and save on waste as described by previous posts.

[Remle]

IMHO, the diesel engine would be the wiser choice over the set works. The set works may reduce time between cuts but the power of the engine along with other factors make the best product. Yes, set works starts out at an accurate thickness each time, but does not guarantee that dimension through out the cut, that is to say the wood god's take over once the blade enters the log whether the dimension is set by set works or by eye.

[Rougespear]

I have to agree with Remle: spend your money on the diesel - setworks is nice no doubt, but not required.  Remember there are countless sawyers producing lumber everyday without the help of computers.  I have sawn many thousand BF of accurate lumber without a computer.  Before I built my mill, I thought setworks was the holy grail, but given a good set of adjustable sawing scales and some common sense, sight sawing is just as accurate, and arguably only slightly slower.  I feel learning to sight saw is an important skill in becoming a sawyer.

That all being said, you asked "is the setworks worth $4k?"  Well, from a monetary standpoint yes.  The hardware and software to run the system is not cheap.  I looked into it for my mill, and would be into it for well over a grand of materials before I ever got going.  I still may do it, but it will be the last thing I do to the mill.  IMO, improving the speed of log handling is far more important.

Lastly, for yourself, you say you are not concerned with speed but instead accuracy and quality: fine, good thinking so instead put the $4k toward a nice tractor. 

Just my opinion...

[rl]

   one other thing I didn't mention is it stop's in the right place every time..i almost never hit it right on.  need a bump up or down 90 percent of time

[YellowHammer]

I would get both.  I had a mill with neither, and upgraded to a mill with both and never regretted it. 

[WV Sawmiller]

   one other thing I didn't mention is it stop's in the right place every time..i almost never hit it right on.  need a bump up or down 90 percent of time

   Spot on. Once I get started on my 4th face and using my setworks at the end of the cut I raise the head far enough to clear the board/cant, return to the start and bump the down button and almost never look at the settings because I know they are right. In this respect not only are the setworks more accurate, they are faster than trying to hit the mark exactly that many times in a cant.

[Joe Hillmann]

If the only reason to spend the extra $4000 is to get the setworks you could always get a couple of these instead http://store.cookssaw.com/sawmill-parts/misc.-parts/magnetic-log-scales.html .

Or if you do a little bit of math you could make your own for what ever thickness you want.

But I also assume with the larger mill you also get several other advantages beyond just the setworks.

[AlaskaLes]

I can see the benefit to having setworks, but I've gotten pretty good at doing the math...I don't often mess up the thickness...and I wouldn't want to give up the torque that my diesel has.

Since the setworks doesn't push the blade any harder.
I guess I'd go for the diesel first and the setworks second.

[terrifictimbersllc]

Agree with AlaskaLes.  But I wouldn't want to give up either one. 

If you do go into business or get to the point where your sawing time is affecting income from other things, these bells and whistles don't cost, they pay.   And, their net cost are the amounts you're looking at now, LESS their contribution to the resale cost.

[gump]

Thanks for the replies. I had pretty well already made up my mind on the diesel. I am not really looking down the road very far regarding generating an income from the mill or resale, but one never knows! I have a list of buildings to build hence the reason to purchase the sawmill. First is the mill building (which I started cutting out the area this weekend!), next is garage to house skidder, loader etc.. bathhouse for existing camp, house, and Maple sugar shack. Which is a good start and a few years of work for me. I like the idea of the setworks package, in the next few weeks I will visit my local dealer and compare the two in action.

[Davek603]

I just went from a mill with no set works to one with it. No way would I go back. Faster and far more consistent. Spend the money you won't regret it!

[wesdor]

I have an LT15 manual that is inside on concrete.  I opted for the electric engine and it works for me.  I've used a mill with set works and agree with others, it is fantastic.  If you are looking for consistency that is the way to go.  A diesel sure has the most power and torque.  A friend has the LT 70 with the big diesel and he can cut through anything and never slow down.

Good luck on whatever you end up buying

[Percy]

Everything I've read so far is good advice regardless of what one may prefer. Many are happy with less power and many are happy with less amenities such as setworks. One thing I have noticed over the years is I've never heard any sawyer say "I wish I didnt get such a powerful mill with so many features."

Consider the wealth of info presented to you here by these knowledgable folks and decide.....or get both. ;D ;D

[Bluejay27]

I've run an LT40HDG28 and a super D42, and watched my brother run an LT70 D55. Only the 70 has setworks/accuset, and it does help to just drop into the next cut as you return. And the diesels do let you saw faster.

But the biggest most grating difference for me is the slow head up/down on the LT40. And the slow hydraulics. The cut speed is actually pretty comparable in smaller or softwood logs between the 40s. But I can't help hating everything else about it by comparison.

So buy the gas, don't get the setworks, and when you realize this should be your full time job, then bump up to a production mill.

And keep that starting mill, slap on a resaw attachment, and you'll hardly ever touch the up/down lever again! We can easily run 6" cants through at 40 ft/min, so we're playing around with the 40 super and 70 as breakdown saws and hoping they can keep up with the resaw.

[Darrel]

My old mill doesn't have set works and I cut accurately sized lumber and I waste a lot of time thinking in the process!  Get the DanG set works and let it do the thinking. Spend your time sawing! Then go diesel.

[Bandmill Bandit]

welcome to the forum Gump.

Every post so far makes a good point of some type.

When I bought my mill in 2007 the LT 35 didn't exist. I started out looking for used mills and found a couple of LT28s and an LT30. (very little difference in these 2) I spent about a week tailing 2 of them and and by the middle of the second day I knew I didn't want a mill without hydraulics and power feed.   

Next I tailed a Cooks full hydraulic. Excellent little mill BUT no dealer support in Canada at the time.

Next was a D&L double cut . Let just say that was less than a good experience and almost put me off buying a mill of any kind.

Next was TK1600. (See above comment.) I now mill for this customer every other spring about a 150 feet from the TK that has not been run since I tailed it. I will be back there in March this spring as well.

Then tailed a 2004 LT40HDG25 and a Mobile Dimensional at the same place on the same day.
That made up my mind on the LT40HDG28. I wish I'd had the chance to tail a 40 Super cause that is what i pretty much own now AFTER all my up date/grades.

I have spent a few hours with the guys from the BC dealer when they have been at the Agri trade show in Red Deer that last 3 years with an LT35 that is sold before they even get to the show.

THe LT35 is a very solid and well performing mill. From your description of your needs I would say this is the LEAST you want to start at.

Deisel vs Gas;
In these smaller mills 25 to 30 HP is sufficient. Gas is a good choice as they are less $$ and the Kholer engine run very economically and have lots of torque. I have a friend that has the super 40 a year older than mine and burns marginally more fuel in the same time with little if any production above mine. If you have support equipment that runs diesel, this would be a reason to jump up to the diesel.

Simple Set;
I started with no set works other than my eyes and the ruler.
I added simple set a few years ago and wouldnt give it up for any money now. It is worth its weight in gold at least once for sure. you can cut good lumber without it for sure BUT it reduces the mental strain in days sawing enough that your production is at least 10% higher at a minimum AND your lumber is 100% more consistent. ther "Set it and forget it" is indeed VERY true. Pretty much eliminates the margin of error that the ruler just cant get rid of.

Hydrualics & power feed;
While you can operate without them, like the rest of us you are not getting younger. The power options make the task of milling very enjoyable and you can go for a hours where a manual mill will have you wore out in half the time and your finished lumber pile will not grow real fast. Productivity is at least double with half the labour.

You will not regret buying an LT35 Hydraulic. Unless you end up doing mostly custom milling like I have. Then you want a 40 Super minimum.