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Belsaw A10, issues

Started by pat hinton, January 14, 2019, 07:36:41 PM

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pat hinton

Hi,
I am working with Don the owner of an Belsaw A10, 36dia replicable tooth blade my current issues are as follows
1. some information I have found indicates this dia. blade should run at 1000 rpm's ? it is driven by power take off which doesn't achieve this more like 520 to 650 rpms.  the blade has a number stamped on it does this convert to a hammered rpm value?  it seems that the higher rpms causes lots of vibration?
2. so running at about 400 rpms, we are getting a 1/4 inch difference in thickness front to back, back being thicker in a 10ft log.
3. checked the carriage knees, they check out okay, adjusted the lead to 1/32+
4. as the log enters the cut the blade seems to deflect away from the log?
5. it also seems to move the first knee back, as the carriage is moved back and then moved to  the saw
there is a 1/4 gap between the blade and log. seems to be no way to lock the knee down from moving?
6. I don't know the number of teeth nor the travel rate, but will be looking to achieve the .11 bite information indicates

thanks for your helpful hints in correcting our issues in advance

dgdrls

Welcome Pat,

I would venture to say 1000 RPM on Belsaw is way too many,
with lots of issues its hard to say its this one thing for sure.

Does Don have a manual for the A-10??

pretty good guide here to help as well
https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/cirsaw.pdf


D




Cutting Edge

Belsaws were never intended to run 1000 rpm's.  540 is more realistic

Is there heat in the mandrel bearings ?

Can you get the saw to visibly "stand" at a certain RPM

How are the guide pins adjusted?

Could you possibly be making to many adjustments at one time ? vs. methodically eliminating one by one

@moodnacreek
"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


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Gearbox

Back off the saw guides to clear the blade by 1/8 inch . When you start to run the saw up in speed it will wobble and bang both guides . Start at 450 RPM and slowly run the saw up until it stops hammering on the guides . This is stand up speed .Make note of this speed . depending on the HP of the power unit you need to over run this speed so you never drop below the stand up speed in the cut . when setting lead always use the same tooth on the blade to measure with the guides backed off  . When you adj. the guides they should have a small gap 1/16 on each side when the blade is up to speed .
A bunch of chainsaws a BT6870 processer , TC 5 International track skidder and not near enough time

Blaszer

Adjust your guides and make sure you've got 1/8'' lead on the blade ..Also make sure you start with new teeth...Take as many of the simple variables out as you can

bandmiller2

Pat, Belsaws are fussy about the lead. If your saw is deflecting away from the log its an indication of too little lead. The carriage headblocks are light and will move in and out if the lead is not proper, too much lead and it will pull the log/cant away from the last headblock. If the track or carriage rollers are rough it will make these matters worse as the cant will tend to move from vibration. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

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